##Damaged my 3320 today, advice please PICS##

[beenthere]

Bolts are good...but Tractor Supply sells lynch pins that have twice the spring pressure of the standard (gold colored) ones. The heavy duty lynch pins are black, BTW. If you buy any, do not get your fingers between the loop and pin!!

They were heavy duty, and yes, the sticks apparently will tear them up when in the woods. I won't be taking that chance anymore. And yes, my fingers have been snapped real good with them.

 

[beenthere]

Okay it's going to my dealer tomorrow. They cut me a break on pick-up, freight and an hour of labor. Barring any other issues it will be right at $1400. :confused2:

:drink:
There is a dealer that is bending over backwards to help you. He may also try to work with Deere to get them to replace it. They do that on occasion for which Deere will take the part back for inspection and quality check.

 

[kebo]

Just got off the phone with a certified welder. He said it can't be done with the hydraulic fluid all over, plus because it's cast he has to heat it to 750 degrees which will damage any seals in the area.

I called my insurance company just to see my deductible was. After discussing the accident they told me that told me that it wasn't a "named peril" and it wasn't covered anyway! So I said, an accident isn't covered by insurance??! So I'm SOL on all fronts.

I bet it could be removed from the tractor, completely disassembled, cleaned up with acetone or maybe a mild acid, and then welded. That might still beat the $750 price for a new one?? The question is how strong would the weld be?

 

[rjkobbeman]

I bet it could be removed from the tractor, completely disassembled, cleaned up with acetone or maybe a mild acid, and then welded. That might still beat the $750 price for a new one?? The question is how strong would the weld be?

I could be totally wrong as I don't have this tractor and have never seen this part other than pics in this thread, however the broken area doesn't look like a "strength" area. If the weld was air (hydraulic fluid) tight, it would probably be OK. I got the impression that a ram overextended inside the housing and puched the broken area from the inside, due the the "accident". It wasn't broken due to weight on the top link attachment point.

 

[beenthere]

rj
That figures to be a good thought, IMO.

Maybe jbweld and a bolt pulling the crack together in an un-used top arm pin hole would maintain its integrity.

 

[Pushing_Tin]

And off she goes! Here are a few pics of the Gannon box scraper for those that were interested. I left the scraper on because the shop wanted to see what happened.

 

[Johndeere3720]

And off she goes! Here are a few pics of the Gannon box scraper for those that were interested. I left the scraper on because the shop wanted to see what happened.

I am kinda curious. Could you get a picture of the boxblade actually touching the tires? Those scarfier teeth sure stick out a bit, maybe consider either shorter teeth or an imatch? Both could possibly solve your issue with hitting the tires. Or even extendable draft links? These would push the boxblade back a bit too. just some ideas.

 

[rjkobbeman]

I am kinda curious. Could you get a picture of the boxblade actually touching the tires? Those scarfier teeth sure stick out a bit, maybe consider either shorter teeth or an imatch? Both could possibly solve your issue with hitting the tires. Or even extendable draft links? These would push the boxblade back a bit too. just some ideas.

I would like to see the tires where the contact was made. After reading the original post, I figured there would be two flat tires!

 

[Johndeere3720]

I would like to see the tires where the contact was made. After reading the original post, I figured there would be two flat tires!

not necessary. I thought the same too but then after looking at his R4 tires, you would have a hard time flattening them since the way that the machine was moving the teeth would hit the front of the tread and just slip off it and hit the next. I am now kinda curious where the teeth broke. Pushing_tin, do you got any pictures of those broken teeth? If i am right those teeth should be 3/4" steel.

 

[consaka]

Nope, deductible is $1000.

I've been doing that for years, just pulled the box up too far. I don't have time to blade a 1/4 mile driveway at 1mph.

Im with you there as I love the way the box holds everything and lets you fill potholes and stuff. What I don't understand is how the heck the teeth hit your tires?
I have a 2615 Mahindra with a cheapo "Howe" box and I don't think I could get them to touch if I tried. Are the arms on a JD shorter? or is that box just made quite a bit different then mine?

As for the welding option,. that would probably be the cheapest way to fix it but you'd have to make sure the shop really knew what it was doing. A welding and machine shop would be the best combo prob because it needs to be flat on the bottom and seals need lined up etc.
Here in Portland we have a shop that welds engine heads up all the time. I have seen them work and they do a good job. You need to find soemthing like that local to you.