##Damaged my 3320 today, advice please PICS##

[RogerH]

It appears to me from the pictures that the reason you had to extend the top link so far is that the blade on your box blade is very worn. I think with a new blade, you wouldn't have to tilt it back so much to get a good bite.

 

[RoyJackson]

I added one of those to my PTO shaft to make my life easier hooking PTO powered equipment.

Just make sure your implement drive shaft doesn't bottom out unless you're using a QH or Pat's (and haven't modified the drive shafts to suit).
I have read (probably here on TBN) PTO extenders can result in premature wear on the tractor's stub shaft bearings. I have no idea if that's true and I still use my extender when hooking up my chipper (Woods chippers come with very short drive shafts).

 

[hanson1999]

of course its harder on the tractor pto bearings. It moving the heavy u-joint assembly farther out from the tractor which gives it more leverage. There is always some wobble in a pto shaft( thats the only way you can hook it up easy) and the further that heavy wobble point is away the harder it will be on it.

Anytime you put a solid extension on a shaft your increasing leverage at its stationary point.

With these aluminum tractor casings i would never use an extender unless absolutely necessary, and then i'd still be very careful.....

 

[Rob-D]

I can't tell from the pics (and I'm not familiar with that part) just where the crack goes. Would that crack go through a bore or pass through any other machined mating surface? If it does, then welding would have be followed up with some machine work to true up those surfaces. If it's just cracked through the case, then it may be possible to glue it back together with some Ni99, Super Missle, or stainless steel rod & TIG welder.

If it were mine, and it the crack was in a weldable location, I wouldn't hesitate to try to weld it back together. What's the worst that can happen??? you screw the piece up and have to buy a replacement?

I think I would weld it too, even if it was just to save as a spare.

By the way, you can MIG it also.
For those of you who don't know, there are four types of cast iron:
Grey, white, maleable and nodular. White is not weldable but the rest are. I use ER70S-6 from Radnor. Which i also use for most welding apps even mild steel. It works well on oily, dirty or rusty metal too.

Rob

 

[Pushing_Tin]

Even when you lower your 3PH completely? The 3PH is lowering completely, is it not?

Yes, it's lowering completely, there's just an odd geometry problem. I might just leave the two outer teeth out of the box in the future.

 

[dfkrug]

For those of you who don't know, there are four types of cast iron:
Grey, white, maleable and nodular. White is not weldable but the rest are.

Note that some manufacturers use cast steel, not cast iron. When
carbon content drops to 1.7% or below it is steel (cast irons are
typically 3-4% carbon). We don't know what the manufacturers are
using.

Cast steels are stronger than cast irons, but somewhat harder to cast.

I have never tried welding cast iron or cast steel myself, but I will try the
ER70S wire the next chance I get.

 

[Rob-D]

Note that some manufacturers use cast steel, not cast iron. When
carbon content drops to 1.7% or below it is steel (cast irons are
typically 3-4% carbon). We don't know what the manufacturers are
using.

Cast steels are stronger than cast irons, but somewhat harder to cast.

I have never tried welding cast iron or cast steel myself, but I will try the
ER70S wire the next chance I get.

DF,
Here's a cast hook I mounted to my 300CX (steel) bucket. I've also welded teeth to my BH and repaired cast arms for bailers.(Millermatic 210)

Rob

 

[Mechanos]

DF,
Here's a cast hook I mounted to my 300CX (steel) bucket. I've also welded teeth to my BH and repaired cast arms for bailers.(Millermatic 210)

Rob

Rob,
I would doubt that the hook is cast.... most are forged.

 

[dfkrug]

I would doubt that the hook is cast.... most are forged.

All the hooks I buy are forged, and they usually say so on each one.

Rob's hook definitely looks cast, however. It has the grinding marks
along what seems to be the mold parting line.

 

[Mechanos]

All the hooks I buy are forged, and they usually say so on each one.

Rob's hook definitely looks cast, however. It has the grinding marks
along what seems to be the mold parting line.

Forged parts can and often do have what looks like a mold parting line. The extra metal that is squeezed out between the dies in the forging process is often trimmed and/or ground off and looks like a mold parting line.