Ok, I give up! Please tell me the secret.

[CurlyDave]

Read this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/131755-help-my-stucchi-disconnect.html to see how I have connected "reluctant" hydraulic connectors.

The very best way to deal with the problem is to keep a set of spare connectors, which are only loosely plugged at the pipe thread (so there is a small pressure leak) on hand and connect them up as soon as an implement is disconnected.

I have never had the caulking gun fail, but I have started using the spare connectors, so I don't need it very often.

 

[IslandTractor]

Don't hit the valve with a hammer, there's plenty of better ways to relieve pressure.

I've never seen anyone post that hitting the quick connect with a hammer has caused problems. Even if it did cause premature wear we are talking about a $15 part so replacing them once a decade is no biggie.

I routinely minimize pressure before disconnecting but still need to release pressure about a quarter of the time on the implement when reconnecting especially if it is a sunny day. I carry a small ball peen hammer and a 1/2 inch bolt in the tractor tool kit along with paper towel or rag. Pretty simple. Male gets a direct blow through the rag and female gets a blow on the inserted bolt. We are not talking high pressure fluid just enough to make it tough to connect. As far as I can tell the biggest danger is a misaimed hammer blow and oil on your clothes.

Some people prefer to loosen the QC to NPT connection but that seems to me more likely to eventually result in leaks and is a little harder to do in the field.

 

[jlsmith]

Find that cylinder stops work well. I can release all presure on the cylinder and the hose and makes it easy to hook back up.

 

[Dmace]

I've never seen anyone post that hitting the quick connect with a hammer has caused problems. Even if it did cause premature wear we are talking about a $15 part so replacing them once a decade is no biggie.

I've never seen anyone post that dumping a pound of sand in the engine has caused problems either but I know it would...
You want to take a hammer and spray hydraulic fluid on the ground your drinking water comes from as well as nick the inside of the connector with that bolt making it harder to install and more prone to leaking then go for it but telling people it's a good idea is misleading.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've never seen anyone post that dumping a pound of sand in the engine has caused problems either but I know it would...
You want to take a hammer and spray hydraulic fluid on the ground your drinking water comes from as well as nick the inside of the connector with that bolt making it harder to install and more prone to leaking then go for it but telling people it's a good idea is misleading.

You are kinda exaggerating things here buddy. First of all using a hammer to tap the nipples is a very common way to release pressure in hydraulic fittings. If it was such a bad idea there would be any number of horror stories about the technique on TBN. There aren't. I was taught by my dealer. We are talking tapping with a hammer, metal to metal, flat surface to flat surface plus nipple. Believe me the connectors are built well enough to tolerate this "abuse". The bolt is useful with the female connectors as my bolts (?most or many bolts) have a slightly concave surface at the threaded end that fits nicely over the recessed nipple and helps center the hammer blow.

Wrapping a paper towel or rag around the connectors collects the very small amount of oil (1-3cc) that escapes. If you forget the towel you get sprayed but the EPA is unlikely to bother tracking you down. I assure you it won't poison your well. Any number of farm devices and especially 2 cycle engines put way more oil into the ground.

 

[doall]

come on Island tractor you know no ones tractor, truck, atv, weed eater, mower, etc... leaks 3cc's of oil in its whole life. Not to mention the bar oil that flows out of our chain saws. The chemicals we spray on our lawns/gardens/fields/pastures, what ever else. The spray paint we use on whatever in the yard. Come on people mother nature can handle a little more than we give her credit for. I'm not saying try to spill junk, but be real about it.

 

[Hoosier Hay Man]

I have to bump my hoses once in while to relieve the pressure. It is pretty much much standard proceedure on the farm.
Now my JD 4430 has the old JD hydraulic couplers. They were a tapered coupler and it doessn't matter if they have pressure or not you can easliy hook them up. You can switch off the flow at the coupler and just pull it out. You then can push it in and turn the lever with little effort and it is in. With such little effort you think it isn't engaged. My guess is sometime in the late seventies everything went to a ISO standard coupler. We used to call them a Pioneer coupler. It is a good design but I do prefer the design on my JD 4430 as I never have to worry about releasing pressure to hook it up. :thumbsup:

 

[Bousez]

When I remove my backhoe, before removing the quick disconnect I put the remote valve (A-N-B) to N (neutral) then I move the controls of the backhoe to relieve some pressure. As long as that selector valve is in neutral and you release some pressure by moving the backhoe controls a little, the hoses will slide right on.

Don't hit the valve with a hammer, there's plenty of better ways to relieve pressure.

This is the way i always do it !

 

[IslandTractor]

This is the way i always do it !

Dmace's technique is standard. The issue is that despite using these precautions there are times when connections are difficult. The sun can heat up hoses for example so pressure must be relieved.

 

[Bousez]

In that case, when it happens i just put a good rag around the tip and push or knock it let's say to the subframe ........
but in 2 years and 500 hours, i had to do it maybe two times

I remove/install backhoe very often , at least a few times a month