How to convert Cat 2 Brush Hog for Cat 1 Tractor

[swmich42]

Purchased used JD 609, which is set up as Cat 2. I plan to use this behind my JD 4700 which is Cat 1. I have read the threads regarding the best method to convert the lower arm pins from Cat 2 on the implement, to Cat 1.
Sounds like I need to install Cat 1 pins for the lower arms. The top link connection on the mower also needs to receive a new bushing for the top link to function properly. TSC and/or Agsupplyonline appears to have the correct parts for the conversion. Anyone recently have success with similar situation? And any additional recommendations?

I also am concerned about the Cat 2 spread of 32", vs the Cat 1 spread of
28", and the ability to fit this between my rear tires; and the heighth of the top link connection. Cat 1 is obviously lower than the Cat 2. Any recommendations?

My last question is how best to check this mower overall, prior to running on my tractor. I plan to check the gear case oil level/quality and change if required. (will I need to replace gearcase cover gasket when done?) The blades are the main question, and how best to check (what to look for) their condition. (ie crack's, bends, etc.)

Why did I buy this large rotary cutter for my 4700? I could not pass up this deal. I also puchased a very nice LP2572, which is in very good shape.

Sorry for the long note, but now that I have real implements, it is hard to concentrate on much else. I have owned the tractor some some time with only a drawbar and clevis between the 3pt arms, to drag trees.

 

[sweettractors]

Concerning the 32 inch spread. Can you turn 1 or both pins inward to narrow back to category 1 dimensionals? Ken Sweet

 

[Big Bri]

Concerning the 32 inch spread. Can you turn 1 or both pins inward to narrow back to category 1 dimensionals? Ken Sweet

ken, i think turning them inward would only gain you the width of the support they are bolted to. so maybe 1/4" at best on each side. . . right? sorry but i don't know of any easy fix for it.

 

[djradz]

I think you can swap out the pins and also turn them in on that monster. Hopefully the arms on your tractor can swing in and then out to engage in such a scenario.

Also, do you have any weight up front in the tractor. The hog, when raised, might make the tractor really light in the front end - not a good feeling!

 

[djradz]

ken, i think turning them inward would only gain you the width of the support they are bolted to. so maybe 1/4" at best on each side. . . right? sorry but i don't know of any easy fix for it.

Center to center - I think you'll gain 2"-3" inches on EACH side. The support is more likely 1/2" to 3/4", but the big gain is from flipping the pin to the inside.

 

[sweettractors]

ken, i think turning them inward would only gain you the width of the support they are bolted to. so maybe 1/4" at best on each side. . . right? sorry but i don't know of any easy fix for it.

If you turn 1 pin around, that will gain reduce width 3-4 inches. Ken Sweet

 

[Big Bri]

i guess i don't get it. I can see where you would not have to spread the lower links as wide to install them but after looking at some of my attachments
i can see where i might gain about an inch, (thickness of the steel that the pin in mounted on, and then there is a shoulder at the end of the pin) but i can't see where you can get 3" per side what am i missing?
Thanks

 

[swmich42]

I plan to get two 70 lb quick tatch weights for front on Saturday. I can add more, but these things are expensive. Looked for used, but cannot find.

 

[swmich42]

Thanks for the suggestions. I contacted JD Dealer near me, and ordered threaded lower lift arm replacement pins. (threaded end is 1 1/8", pin end is 7/8") converting the implements cat 2 pins to cat 1. I plan to move either both or one to the inside. Each frame member which holds these pins is approx 3" in diameter, and will provide enough relief to keep lower arms narrow enough for my rear tires/wheels. (thanks Ken for the recommendation. Did not realize I could move to inside....now that I look at that solution, seems obvious and simple) Also ordered top link bushing, which will convert cat 2 to 1. Prices were very reasonable, compared to previous posts. I will pay $4.72 for each of the pins, and $ 4.00 for the bushing. I also ordered two 70lb front quick-tatch weights, and will see if I need more. Could not find used. Plan to test rotary mower this weekend. I also need to install front/rear solid guards, but will get to these after I confirm all is well with general mower function. I will post pics of the set up. Thanks again for the help. This site is one of the best in knowledgeable advice.

 

[sweettractors]

(thanks Ken for the recommendation. Did not realize I could move to inside....now that I look at that solution, seems obvious and simple) Also ordered top link bushing, which will convert cat 2 to 1. Prices were very reasonable, compared to previous posts.

Glad to be of help. When a person farms, we have think in different ways than most. Our way of doing things may not be "conventional", however, it usually the simplest and least expensive. "Times being what they are" inexpensive is a good thing. Ken Sweet

 

[bilrus61]

If its too heavy and makes your tractor light in the front end just use it as a "semi-mount" mower and don't attach the top link at all. Just pull it with the weight resting on the back wheel and your two lower link arms. It will mow just fine like that and your tractor will not ever be light in the front end. Just have to make sure you have you rear wheel at the height you want to mow.

 

[Interlaux]

SW Mich - start looking for an FEL - have we every led you wrong?:ashamed:

 

[dcyrilc]

i guess i don't get it. I can see where you would not have to spread the lower links as wide to install them but after looking at some of my attachments
i can see where i might gain about an inch, (thickness of the steel that the pin in mounted on, and then there is a shoulder at the end of the pin) but i can't see where you can get 3" per side what am i missing?
Thanks

I'm a few days late here, Bri, but since no-one else answered let's see if I can help explain it.

When you move the pin to the inside, you are attaching to the opposite side of the lower arm. You will gain the thickness of the mount, twice the thickness of the shoulder on the pin, and the thickness of the lower lift arm including the ball. This change will be for each side that is swapped.

 

[swmich42]

dcyrilc describes mounting the pins to the inside correctly. Bri the gain I will realize when moving these pins to the inside, 3" per side, is so large because the mounting frame that houses these pins is boxed 1/4 metal. Each frame member these pins passes through is 3" wide.

Tried to insert image from deere website to show.

And yes Interlaux, I to get a FEL for my tractor. My plan is 400cx, with materials bucket, grapple, and tree spade. I just need to find the $8K this is going to put me back.

Since the tractor did not come with a FEL, I have been after those items I could use, that do not have this significant of a cost. Currently I have LPride 2572 box blade - $ 300, LPride 2572 finish mower - $875, and JDeere 609 rotary mower - $ 780. Also plan to find large 3pt spreader, cultipacker, and finisher.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Did you check to make sure your lift arms wouldn't go out wide enough before moving the pins to the inside? (I realize you still need cat 1 pins). We have a cat 2 bale spear with cat 1 pins on it that we use on a JD 4400, and the arms go out wide enough to hook it up, but just barley. Just something to think about, IMO it's easier to hook up implements with the pins turned out like they should be vs turned in.

 

[swmich42]

I will definately check to make sure I need to move the pins to inside before installing them. It will be close.

 

[swmich42]

This weekend I was only able to move the mower into the barn. The Cat 2 to Cat 1 conversion pins I found on-line and at the JD Dealer are too short. Need Cat conversion kit, taking JD 609 from Cat 2, to Cat 1, to allow my JD 4700 (which is Cat 1) ability to hook onto, with least amount of modifications. Bushing length for top link needs to be 2 7/8", to span across completely. (bushings found are all short; I could weld # 2 together, then cut to length, but would rather not go to this extent) Lower lift arm pins: have found Cat 2-Cat 1 conversion pins, but the threaded shank on these are too short. The 609 frame which holds the lower pins is a boxed design, so the threaded end (1 1/8" dia) needs to be at least 3 5/8" long, to allow length to pass through boxed frame, and room for nut. Any ideas?

On a better note, the LP 2572 finish mower worked like a charm. Cuts fast and smooth. Still trying to get the PTO collar to release the pins which limit how far the PTO shaft can move. I have it sitting in oil right now. Will see if it releases. If not, I will get replacement. I will post some pics as soon as I can.

 

[Interlaux]

SW - so you finally got to do some mowing - Like it? Finish mowers are IMHO the only way to mow lawns - I have used my riding mower once this year. With a FM,hydro some backing skills its the only way to go.

Up away from the grass dust
sitting on a springy seat
lots of cut/pass

I've tried a ztr but i hated it, you have to stop to take a drink and the grass dust gets in yer beer!

Here is my suggestion:

Move your tires to the widest stance. hopefully since its just been trailed they are at their narrowest so you will just have to swap sides. There are 8 (from memory) rear tire spacing widths for your 4700. At its widest wheel stance you will be able to get the pins on your link arms. My first implement was a freebie-with-the-frame-bent-up 5' RC. its about 32" pin to pin and I can get it on my 4610- Boy it made me sweat the first time.

loosen the link arms up all the way

get someone to operate the tractor for the delicate back-forth until your lined up while holding the arms out routine.

of course you'll still need the cat 1 pins but now you want the shortest you can get away with.

Maybe check it to see if I'm right. if so its just a matter of putting the new pins on. The thing to watch for is that the rear tires and the cutter deck don't hit when you raise the cutter.

Hows the draft arm problem?
good luck!

 

[swmich42]

Still trying to find solution (pre-fabricated) to allow long enough lower pin installation, converting from Cat 2 (threaded end) to Cat 1. (Pin end) It's looking more like I will be welding correct length threaded 1 1/8" dia end, to 7/8" dia pin. I just wanted to find one to buy instead of fab'ing. I am surprised I have not found others in our TBN community that have not run into this scenario in the past, and or that the vendors' do not have a product to accommodate this request. That said, think I will call Markum Welding to see if they have any ideas.

 

[sweettractors]

Still trying to find solution (pre-fabricated) to allow long enough lower pin installation, converting from Cat 2 (threaded end) to Cat 1. (Pin end) It's looking more like I will be welding correct length threaded 1 1/8" dia end, to 7/8" dia pin. I just wanted to find one to buy instead of fab'ing. I am surprised I have not found others in our TBN community that have not run into this scenario in the past, and or that the vendors' do not have a product to accommodate this request. That said, think I will call Markum Welding to see if they have any ideas.

We have Cat 1 pins that are 7/8 inch on the threaded end and 7/8 on the implement end. We also have Cat 2 pins that are 7/8 inch on the threaded end and 1 1/8 on the implement end. Overall length of bot pins is 5 3/8. Will this help? Ken Sweet