Loader Lightweight pallet forks for 200X & 200CX loader

[kennyd]

Good news, Fedex just showed up with the ATV Express forks and rails, and they look great. Rails are 1/2" as advertised, nice and clean, and smoothly cut/beveled. The frame from Chris is due tomorrow afternoon, so in between half a dozen other things going on around here I can soon break out some 7018 rods and get started welding things up.

I have actually considered taking the rails to a local machine shop and having a couple of extra fork locking "notches" cut on each side of the top rail, to allow five different widths for the forks vice the current three. Haven't made up my mind yet on that, but of course if I'm going to do it I have to do it now. Any opinions on whether having five locking fork widths available vice three would be worth the machine shop expense?

Couldn't you just grind the notch with a angle grinder? It does not need to be that precise.

 

[rbcsaver]

I received a very apologetic e-mail from ATV today, as well as the new tracking number for a new 1/2' bottom rail at their expense. Even though this will cost me time, money for a 1/4 additional plate, ATV has been very helpful in resolving my issue and I can't complain about that. My suggestion to ALL, ordering the rails and forks from ATV is to Clearly specify that they are for Chris Perry's frames and are to be 1/2" upper and lower.

Also, it is very important to note that Chris had absolutely nothing to do with this mess, but he has been more than helpful in calling me at home, diagnosing the problem and offering to help fix the problem. I would buy from Chris again without any worry.

The only other "odd" issue I had with ATV's parts is that the forks are unpainted and have slight surface rust. Yet the rails, which are to welded have this cheap, gummy, greasy, black paint that smears more than it sands or grinds off.

regards,
Steve

Yeah, and so did I. However, ATV sent me a 1.25" top frame and 1/2" bottom frame.
They don't line up, post welding. I am trying to resolve this with AtvExpress. Chris' work is excellent.
Make sure you receive a 1/2" top and bottom set of rails. NOT a 1.25 upper and 1/2" lower set, as I did.
Resolution pending with AtvExpress.
regards,
Steve

 

[picker77]

I guess I could do that, Kenny. But the new tractor/new attachment syndrome hasn't yet subsided, I guess. The top bar is so cleanly cut (laser or water, I can't tell which) that I can't bear to hack it up with a grinder. BTW, the top and bottom rails I received are rust free and unpainted. The forks do have light rust on them, likely from being stored outdoors, so I'll probably wire brush and paint them flat black after I paint the rest of the frame JD green after welding it up. Granted, the black paint won't last long on the forks, but I hate looking at rust on any of my equipment.

 

[C-Range]

Just thinking out loud here...... but if the sole purpose of have the thinner rails is weight savings, is 20lbs right up next to the loader arms really that significant to worry about?

Hi Mechanos, it's not just the weight, it's the configuration, as illustrated in Steve's pictures. Luckily, in Steve's particular case, the weight won't matter much. But on the little tykes, like mine, I'm often at max capacity so every pound will be appreciated.

Picker, if you have your rail machined, be aware that it is high strength and high wear resistance steel. It will probably machine similar to 304 SS, only harder but less gummy. I'll see if I have some machining criteria for it and send it to you. Kennyd's mention of grinding would probably work just fine if you wear the pants with your angle grinder and have a couple of fresh wheels for the finishing.

Steve, thanks for the update...and all else

 

[picker77]

Hmmm... Thanks for the heads up, Chris, my simple mild steel brain hadn't considered the metal composition factor. So on second thought, I believe I'll let sleeping dogs lie and leave it as is. I can always do a KennyD and grind a couple of more notches later if the need arises.

However, the metal composition thing poses another question: Are the E7018 rods I'm planning on using appropriate for welding these rails?

Picker, if you have your rail machined, be aware that it is high strength and high wear resistance steel. It will probably machine similar to 304 SS, only harder but less gummy. I'll see if I have some machining criteria for it and send it to you. Kennyd's mention of grinding would probably work just fine if you wear the pants with your angle grinder and have a couple of fresh wheels for the finishing.

 

[C-Range]

I've come to the same conclusion after considering all factors. When I designed up the rails I'm getting made, I looked at altering the slot layout but begrudgingly ended up leaving it alone.

In case you change your mind, I can't find any firm information for machining the rails but I'd start my calculations with 300 SFM and .001-.002 in/tooth using a carbide cutter only.

7018 is definitely the correct arc rod to use on the rails.

 

[picker77]

Frame arrived right on time, Chris. Excellent packing job, and I was surprised at how clean everything was. I'm used to seeing a big ugly layer of mill scale on new steel.

The welding is going ok after some initial hiccups, namely yours truly had forgotten how careful you have to be to weld thin wall tubing to 1/2" plate without blowing holes. Started out with DC+ @125 amps which turned out to be a little high. Settled on 115 amps after the first few inches of weld and everything went a lot easier after that. I was tempted to use 3/32" rod but I was afraid the penetration might not be sufficient in the 1/2" plate with that, so I opened a fresh can of 1/8" and it's working fine now that my "technique" has improved. My welds won't be as pretty as you'd have done them, but in spite of that I don't think they'll come apart. :laughing:

Nice fit on everything, thanks for your quality work.

 

[C-Range]

The original unit that I built for myself was with regular structural steel which has mill scale. Everything built since then has been with HRPO sheet which, not only has no scale, but is also 25% stronger in yield strength. It's good stuff, the perfect material for this application. No pre-grinding whatsoever.

It is great that you got the parts in and were able to get right to work on it. Too bad about the blowout. Hopefully it was on the bottom of the frame or you were able to fill it in and grind it back. If it was near an end on the top rail (near the hooks) definitely get it patched up as you don't want to leave a stress concentrator in that area.

Thanks for the update!

 

[picker77]

Too bad about the blowout. Hopefully it was on the bottom of the frame or you were able to fill it in and grind it back. If it was near an end on the top rail (near the hooks) definitely get it patched up as you don't want to leave a stress concentrator in that area.

Rocket scientist me, I started my weld stitches from the top of the top rail, instead of warming up by starting on the bottom of the bottom rail, so the only "bad" weld was right up there on top. However, I was able to grind it out and fill it cleanly, so I think it's ok. I got better as I went along, of course. I should have started at the bottom of the bottom rail. Lesson learned.

Tomorrow is weld wire-brush and cleanup time, might even get some primer applied. I've built a lot of Heathkits in my day, this is even more fun.

 

[rbcsaver]

A new unpainted 1/2' bottom rail arrived today. So next week's project is set to cut off the bottom tabs on the current 1/2" plate, shim out the new bottom rail about 1/4 and reweld.
Pics next weekend.
Steve

I received a very apologetic e-mail from ATV today, as well as the new tracking number for a new 1/2' bottom rail at their expense. Even though this will cost me time, money for a 1/4 additional plate, ATV has been very helpful in resolving my issue and I can't complain about that. My suggestion to ALL, ordering the rails and forks from ATV is to Clearly specify that they are for Chris Perry's frames and are to be 1/2" upper and lower.

Also, it is very important to note that Chris had absolutely nothing to do with this mess, but he has been more than helpful in calling me at home, diagnosing the problem and offering to help fix the problem. I would buy from Chris again without any worry.

The only other "odd" issue I had with ATV's parts is that the forks are unpainted and have slight surface rust. Yet the rails, which are to welded have this cheap, gummy, greasy, black paint that smears more than it sands or grinds off.

regards,
Steve