Can I test the amps from my alternator like this?

[Steve_Miller]

um.. not really... as far back as post 21, and many times thereafter people mentioned checking for bad wires / bad connections.

in post 120 I specificvally mentioned bad wire connectors, crimp connectors and bad connections hidden or otherwise..

soundguy

Sorry Chris, I missed that, my bad.

Steve

 

[Soundguy]

just making the point that it was not specifically a failure in diagnostics by all involved.. it was just a dern hard issue to pin down.... if it is indeed pined down even now..

soundguy

 

[jinman]

just making the point that it was not specifically a failure in diagnostics by all involved.. it was just a dern hard issue to pin down.... if it is indeed pined down even now..

soundguy

You are right, soundguy. Back in the other thread when the original VR burned up and was being replaced. Egon, CharlieS, me, you, and zzvyb6, all suggested a close examination of the wiring. This all proves that it's one thing to say it and quite another to do it. Smitty was at his wits end with this problem and he thought he was doing everything right. Considering his lack of experience with electrical troubleshooting, I think he did a good job, especially with 10 or 15 of us giving him mixed directions.

Smitty, you found the problem and now things are gonna get better. Good job! Don't go 2nd guessing yourself. We are all happy for you.:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

for sure.. especially for someone who is not electrically inclined.. diving head first into a charge circuit and the associated wiring must be a nighmare. the fact that it could have been umpteen dozen different things didn't help either. I'm just glad he finally found something that really looks like it could be the source of the issue.

soundguy

 

[rsmith02184]

You knew this thread wouldn't die!!!

I finally got out to the garage and ran the tractor and took some more readings. I ran it for about 5 minutes and it was putting out 14.5 VDC at the battery. However, the VR and the wires got real hot again.

You have mentioned that it might be the starter solenoid but I checked that and it seems fine. If it was the glow plug, wouldn't the dummy light not be functioning correctly which it now is.

I AM BACK!!!!!

 

[Transit]

You knew this thread wouldn't die!!!

I finally got out to the garage and ran the tractor and took some more readings. I ran it for about 5 minutes and it was putting out 14.5 VDC at the battery. However, the VR and the wires got real hot again.

You have mentioned that it might be the starter solenoid but I checked that and it seems fine. If it was the glow plug, wouldn't the dummy light not be functioning correctly which it now is.

I AM BACK!!!!!

The bug is back again, I would look at that bad connector again. Does that connector or any other connectors get hot?
Once you get the engine running, carefully remove the wire to the starter solenoid and the glow plugs. Is the VR and wires still hot?

 

[rsmith02184]

will do

another thing: does the fact that the tractor won't run when I disconnect the postive battery cable (after starting it) show that there is still a problem? what problem could that be a symptom of???

 

[Soundguy]

don't have a big capacitor do you? something large inthe 4-8000uf range?

soundguy

 

[Jay4200]

well, like i said before, i have given this a good try but I am ready to admit defeat. I don't know nor have the tools for the tests that you are recommending.

so here is my plan: I want to mow a few times before I send the tractor to the shop. I am planning on disconnecting the alternator so it doesn't continue to heat up the VR. I will also disconnect all light bulbs that draw current when I am mowing (i.e. the PTO light). Hopefully I will be able to mow my entire 5 acres before the tractor dies. Then I will recharge battery using a battery charger.

Does this sound like an okay thing to do until I get it fixed?

Take your alternator out and take it to a shop for testing. They will find out exactly what is wrong (alt or reg.) in 5 minutes then can generally fix it the same day - usually costs ~$50. Done.

JayC

 

[Soundguy]

remember.. this 'alt' is a permanent field type dynamo with external rectifier and regulator pack.. not a regular alternator with field control and heavy rectifiers and a diode trio.

soundguy