Can I test the amps from my alternator like this?

[Treemonkey1000]

I was really hoping that the funky connection would have fixed the problem. Maybe start it up in a darkened barn or at night to look for any other arcing connections. Next comment is if you yank the alternator and take it to a shop then can they test the VR at the same time? Soundguy what would be the use of a large capacitor? I would dig through my electronic junk stuff if that would help him trouble shoot it and he wanted to wait.
On a side note my 25HP Kohler on my chipper started blowing fuses the other day. 30 amp fuse would blow after about 30 seconds. Took off the starter and found bits of magnet behind the flywheel. Called the Vermeer Tech. Apparently there are magnets inside the flywheel as part of the alternator charging system. A flyhwheel a new stator and about 2 hours of labor is going to set me back about $500... Ouch.

 

[Soundguy]

if it was a bad choppy output on the charge output, so that the machine dies, a cap across the bat cables might make it run IF the dynamo was making current, ie.. when you pull the + cable.. leave the cap across + and - cables.

soundguy

 

[Transit]

will do

another thing: does the fact that the tractor won't run when I disconnect the postive battery cable (after starting it) show that there is still a problem? what problem could that be a symptom of???

We are talking Diesel engine, no? Diesels dont have spark plugs and so only need electrical power to start the engine.

Jay, after rsmith plunks down 50 bucks to test the alternator and VR, than the cost of repair, why not invest the 50 in replacing the dynamo with a suitable alternator and be done with it?:thumbsup:

 

[jinman]

We are talking Diesel engine, no? Diesels dont have spark plugs and so only need electrical power to start the engine.

Not entirely true. . . Diesels with electrical fuel cutoff solenoids need electricity to hold the solenoid energized. Normally the solenoids pull about 1 amp. There may also be an operator safety system that needs to be powered to complete the logic to energize the fuel solenoid. Modern diesels are just not as simple as the old mechanical fuel cutoff types.

 

[Soundguy]

We are talking Diesel engine, no? Diesels dont have spark plugs and so only need electrical power to start the engine.

Jay, after rsmith plunks down 50 bucks to test the alternator and VR, than the cost of repair, why not invest the 50 in replacing the dynamo with a suitable alternator and be done with it?:thumbsup:

and the fuel solenoid and or fuel pump, and electric gauge clusters.. and..

as jinman said.. these aren't the diesels of the 60's and 70's that you could roll down a hill, and fire off, and they go till you pull the fuel stop cable.

soundguy

 

[jinman]

will do

another thing: does the fact that the tractor won't run when I disconnect the postive battery cable (after starting it) show that there is still a problem? what problem could that be a symptom of???

Remember the K7 Safety Relay? Also, remember the blue line I put on the output of the safety relay that I said turned ON the VR? If you remove battery power the K7 signal is lost and the VR shuts down. That would shut off the tractor. That's just how your system is designed to operate. Others with alternators and internal VRs will keep running, but yours is designed to shut down as it does.

 

[Transit]

Not entirely true. . . Diesels with electrical fuel cutoff solenoids need electricity to hold the solenoid energized. Normally the solenoids pull about 1 amp. There may also be an operator safety system that needs to be powered to complete the logic to energize the fuel solenoid. Modern diesels are just not as simple as the old mechanical fuel cutoff types.

I was referring to what lights the fires, not auxiliary systems. If there is a way around the dynamo / vr I would be looking for it. Time, money and effort to fix a problem that is proving to be chronic is illogical [Mr. Spock]. Dont you have better things to do?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Smitty, let's start with the charging circuit. If it's not enough, we'll go to the rest as needed.

Soundguy: I would like to know what the currents are in the circuit, but cheap clamp-on meters don't read DC current, only AC. So he could read the output of the Alternator and check the output of the VR for AC current as well since he has both DC and AC superimposed. However, knowing what the AC current is coming out of the alternator would tell us a lot because the VR can't put it out as DC if the alternator doesn't make it as AC. What do you think? I think an old Ford ammeter with a built-in shunt would be ideal to use on the output side of the VR to measure current.

Yes, but if you have a DVM with a 200millivolt scale [less than $5 @ HF] you can calibrate various parts/wires of the circuit to it by using a known current and establishing the IR=V drop in the wire itself. Since Resistance of the wire is near constant, current is then proportional to V measured, and polarity will tell direction. Some pertinent coaching would empower the OP to do this.
larry

 

[rsmith02184]

I am going to check the tractor again tonight. This time with the lights off to look for arcing. If I don't find any, I am going to take a look the red wire that comes out of the VR and goes to the starter switch/starter solenoid. That is the place that seems to be generating the most amount of heat and then it seems to travel down the red wire and through the VR connector. Then it heats up the VR.

I am wondering if maybe this red wire (which is a larger gauge and apparently is a fusible link that is designed to fail if there is too much current) is not making a good connection and is overheating as a result.

Who knows, it could be anything!!!

 

[Soundguy]

let us know what you find.

soundguy