What is needed hydraulically for a grapple?

[montelatici]

I have a BX24 and an L3700 and would like to fit a grapple on one of them. I am thinking that a quick connect grapple for the L3700 might be the most practical route, rather than an attachment for the bucket on either tractor. What needs to be done hydraulic wise to get the grapple function to work. I guess you need another function beyond the FEL controls, but I am not sure. Thanks.

 

[KennyV]

I just use one pair of my rear remotes... KennyV

 

[IslandTractor]

Rear remotes are the easiest and cheapest way to go. Diverter valves and electric over hydraulic valves are nice too but more $$$.

I've used both rear remotes and a diverter valve. There are differences but I don't strongly prefer one over the other. Electric over hydraulic is the best but also most expensive.

 

[montelatici]

I just use one pair of my rear remotes... KennyV

I don't think my L3700 SU has rear remotes.

 

[crazyal]

I'm glad you asked this as I'm thinking of making a grapple. From what i understand you'll need to add at least one remote. I'm assuming that it doesn't need the "float" feature some of the spool valves have. I'll probably add two valves so I can also add a top and tilt. I'm not sure where you would tie into the hydraulic system though.

Here are some of the questions I have. When people are saying they use a rear remote I assume that they just run long hadraulic lines from front to back, if so where do you route the lines? Couldn't you just make a tee and have quck connects at both the rear of the tractor and one set near where the FEL connects. How do you run the hydraulic lines down the loader arm? Do you just wrap them around the other lines or did you make a braket to hold them but is easy to remove the lines when the grapple comes off?

I haven't priced it out yet but I'm thinking of justifying buying a plasma cutter to cut the steel needed for a grapple. I haven't seen one in person since deciding to do this so I'm not sure how think of steel, how many arms, one or two cylinders, and how big it should be. If I could do it with enough savings to cover part of the cost of a plasma cutter I'll probably do it next spring.

 

[KennyV]

I don't think my L3700 SU has rear remotes.

If you can think of ever needing remote hydraulics it is worth the cost to do rear remotes and run a good hose down under the tractor to the front...

And yes you can have a QD at both ends if you like but you can also just unplug the under lines and use the rear QD, then replug the lines when you need the front system, leaving the hoses running to the underside supported along the frame and/or transmission...
If you feel you will never need rear hydraulics an electric splitter for the loader valve will do what you want and cost less than installing rears... KennyV

 

[memman]

If you are interested in the 3rd function electric over hydraulic system, here are a couple of videos you can watch. I have this system and am very happy with it.

YouTube - How To Series - 3rd Function Auxiliary Hydraulics for Tractor Loaders
YouTube - One Touch Kit for Tractor Loaders - Installation

 

[IslandTractor]

Just to be clear, installing a diverter valve or electric over hydraulic is almost always more money than installing a rear remote.

No doubt the cheapest solution is if you already have a rear remote and just running 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch line from the remote forward over the rear axle, under the operator station, up the left FEL mounting post and down the FEL arm to the torque bar where you make a QC connection to the grapple. Takes about 20-30 minutes and a bunch of zipties to set that up.

Installing a rear remote if you don't have one can be fairly straightforward and many guys have done it in a couple of hours even without prior hydraulic experience. It does depend a lot on what the tractor manufacturer charges for the kit. I only am familiar with Kioti who make a kit for about $350. Several posts with photos on installing that in the Kioti section. Other manufacturers charge more and I recall NH has an outrageous fee. One point about the rear remote: make sure the control lever is conveniently located on your tractor: it should be possible to drop your hand off the FEL controller and reach the rear remote without looking....think 4 on the floor shifter or something natural like that. You don't want to have to look or put your hand in an awkward position to rear the controller.

Diverter valve kits are available from WRLong for something around $500 which come with instructions. WRLong only sells through dealers but any dealer can get you either the kit or can install it for you for 2-3 hours of labor. That is probably the middle ground in terms of expense unless you are brave and want to just source all the components yourself in which case you can probably save $100-150 by getting similar stuff from Surplus Supply and save more by doing your own labor.

Electric over hydraulic is the Cadillac of solutions. Figure about $1000 for a WRLong kit plus dealer installation.

If you don't have a rear remote consider this as an opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. A rear remote is very useful for operating a hydraulic topping lift and can also power other devices such as a log splitter. If you do driveway maintenance consider putting in two so you can do top and tilt.

Regarding which is best, no one seems unhappy with any of the three methods for controlling a grapple. I have personal experience with rear remotes and diverter valve. I think they are about the same. Electric over hydraulic would be nice but I'd rather use the extra cash to have an extra implement than the slight additional benefit that valve provides.

 

[tr11439]

Rear remotes are about $750 from kubota. And that's not installed. I just added another single spool valve under my fel joystick. I piped the pressure line from the tractor to the inlet on my new valve. Then from the new outlet into the pressure inlet on my fel valve. Both valves are open center so you can just add a valve inline. A universal valve from prince or cross is about $120. I have a total of about $250 including my homemade bracket, fittings, quick connects and hoses all the way to the front.

 

[IslandTractor]

Rear remotes are about $750 from kubota. And that's not installed..

Rip off. $350 from Kioti for what must be the same thing.

 

[tr11439]

I can take pictures if you would like. Let me know what you decide.

 

[KennyV]

Yep... Adding the first rear remote is going to co$t more on a Kubota...

If do not see a need for rear hydraulics the third valve from Tom at everything attachments is going to be quick and easy.. Or you can shop around and get an electric solenoid system using one of your loader functions for around $300... KennyV

 

[tr11439]

Kioti is not the same as kubota anymore. Different parts. I checked everywhere.

 

[tr11439]

With the setup I came up with I could easily "T" into my lines out of my extra valve and run hoses to the rear also for rear remotes. Would have one lever to run two sets of outputs. One front and one rear. Just depends on which set you have an attachment hooked up to.

 

[IslandTractor]

Kioti is not the same as kubota anymore. Different parts. I checked everywhere.

I don't think anyone meant to imply they were interchangable. However, they are essentially the same types of parts and it is rediculous that Kubota charges double.

 

[tr11439]

Hope this helps

 

[tr11439]

No doubt a rip off. Check out my setup. $250 v the $750 from kubota. Made the bracket and piped it in. Price includes everything down to the 177" hydraulic lines to the front of the loader.

 

[tr11439]

No doubt a rip off. Check out my setup. $250 v the $750 from kubota. Made the bracket and piped it in. Price includes everything down to the 117" hydraulic lines to the front of the loader.

 

[IslandTractor]

Hope this helps

Nice job.

 

[tr11439]

Thanks. Saved a ton. Plus it all has QuickConnects in case I decide to detach my loader. Works great and doesn't look too bad.