Problems on home built FEL

   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#21  
As long as cylinder is rated for the set PRV pressure and cylinder is taking all the stress from stalling, your current setting should be fine. But if you grab a very heavy load, you might stress the structure. To fully protect the structural integrity, I would advice a work port PRV, set at whatever 700-900psi. That would protect the structural integrity, if you travel/move, bouncing, over uneven ground with a heavy load in the bucket, as well as protect from excessive pump pressure. This way you also have your 2200psi available for a future PB application

The cylinders are 3,000 psi rated so I think they should be ok. I assume I can use the gauge that is mounted on the loader valve input port and start backing off the loader valve PRV until it shows about 1,000 psi when the cylinders reach full travel. If this is not the right way to do it, please let me know and thanks again for the help.
 

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   / Problems on home built FEL #22  
The cylinders are 3,000 psi rated so I think they should be ok. I assume I can use the gauge that is mounted on the loader valve input port and start backing off the loader valve PRV until it shows about 1,000 psi when the cylinders reach full travel. If this is not the right way to do it, please let me know and thanks again for the help.

You are doing it the right way!

Still the PRV will not protect your FEL when CV is in neutral, and a heavy load in the bucket. For that you need a WORK PORT PRV (between CV and cylinder).....
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #23  
Gary,

That's a nice setup and looks like one happy Yanmar......:thumbsup:
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Gary,

That's a nice setup and looks like one happy Yanmar......:thumbsup:

Thanks, it was a lot of work but I'm happier than a pig in mud! It's small as far as loaders go (42" bucket) but the tractor seems to be holding it ok. I can maneuver it around with the bucket loaded with little steering effort and that was my biggest worry building it. I only had to put the box blade on to get traction. Now, if I can just get this lowering problem worked out it will be perfect for me. Hopefully the flow control valves will do the trick.

I would like to find a pump with more gpm's but I don't think they are available.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #25  
I think your 4 gpm is fine but wonder what type of fluid you are using? It may be foaming causing some of the issues.

Also, how big is the reservoir? You may just be plain running out of fluid to run the loader full cycle. Remember, it takes more fluid to extend a cylinder than it does to retract it due to internal volume of the cylinder is taken up by the piston rod.

Chris
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I think your 4 gpm is fine but wonder what type of fluid you are using? It may be foaming causing some of the issues.

Also, how big is the reservoir? You may just be plain running out of fluid to run the loader full cycle. Remember, it takes more fluid to extend a cylinder than it does to retract it due to internal volume of the cylinder is taken up by the piston rod.

Chris

The loader is working off of the tractor pump and uses the 303 transmission oil. Oil level in the transmission is a little shy of 5 gallons with the loader.

The problem I have is the bucket and loader will drop quickly when loaded and the pump doesn't seem to be able to put oil into the cylinders as fast as it is coming out. This causes the bucket to stop momentarily after the load leaves the bucket before it will continue tilting down. To me that means it may be creating a vacuum in the cylinder and from what I have read that is not good.

There doesn't appear to be foaming of the oil. I looked into the transmission and don't see bubbles forming. But then it may be I'm just not seeing them. It doesn't have a problem lifting, and the speed is fine for what I do with it. I'm hoping by putting the flow valves on the drop and tilt side of the cylinders that it will even out the flow through the system.

My thinking on a larger volume pump is that it would keep up with the out flow of the cylinders and the problem would be solved that way. The flow control valves are going to be a pain to find a place to fit them in with the way I laid out the lines and hoses.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #27  
Kind of glanced through. Is your valve way over sized for this? Could be losing your feathering capabilty if it is.:2cents:
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Kind of glanced through. Is your valve way over sized for this? Could be losing your feathering capabilty if it is.:2cents:

The loader valve is 10gpm. That's about the smallest I could find at the time. If I manually slow down the bucket drop with the loader valve then it works ok. But as usual, I tend to forget and just drop the bucket and then have to either curl it back up a little or just wait about 3 seconds for the pump to catch up. I thought about just replacing the valve with one that has regen capability but they run about $340.00 and I'm not sure if that will fix the problem.
 
   / Problems on home built FEL #29  
If you really need the option to dump buck fast, a regen function is what you need. that will support pump refilling the capped side of cylinder.
SUN Hydraulics ahve inline valves for that
 
   / Problems on home built FEL
  • Thread Starter
#30  
If you really need the option to dump buck fast, a regen function is what you need. that will support pump refilling the capped side of cylinder.
SUN Hydraulics ahve inline valves for that

I haven't found a need yet to dump the bucket quickly, it just does it on it's own when full once it reaches the break over point. I would like it to just dump at the speed of the pump without me having to manually slow it down with the loader valve. I am going to try using the flow control valves to see if this will remedy the problem. Only issue with them is where to try and fit them in. Small tractor, small loader and short lines.:(
 

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