2210D radiator sub-tank

[stormpetrel]

I noticed the sub-tank (that's what the manual calls it) was empty last week. I filled it to the line, and topped off the radiator. After I shut the engine down the next time I ran it, I heard a gurgling noise.....fluid going from the radiator into the sub-tank. The next time I looked (this morning) the sub-tank was empty. I left it alone because the radiator was still full. I ran the tractor today for about two hours at 2000 s. RPMsI let the engine run at 800 or so RPMs for 5 minutes so she could cool down before I shut her down. I noticed the sub-tank was full!! After the engine was cool enough, I went out to check the radiator level. Most of the water had gone from the sub-tank back into the radiator, and the radiator was down less than an inch. There was still an inch or two in the sub-tank.

Is this normal? It seems that the radiator wouldn't be dumping into the sub-tank unless there was higher than normal temps...? The engine didn't feel TOO hot. Seemed like what I would expect from an engine that had been run at operating RPMs for a while.

Interested in hearing what more experienced tractor guys have to say......
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[winston1]

My 2002 level stays pretty constant in the radiator and overflow reservoir. Occasionally it may put a little in the overflow and then suck it back in. Haven't had to add fluid in either for 6 months or longer. You didn't mention overheating so I'm assuming that is not the problem. Do you have a temperature gage or light? Your radiator cap could be bad. You could test it or buy a new one. Yanmar Tractor Parts: RADIATOR CAP Might also observe your overflow jug while running for bubbles. If you have any it could be a blown head gasket. Been there, done that.

 

[stormpetrel]

My 2002 level stays pretty constant in the radiator and overflow reservoir. Occasionally it may put a little in the overflow and then suck it back in. Haven't had to add fluid in either for 6 months or longer. You didn't mention overheating so I'm assuming that is not the problem. Do you have a temperature gage or light? Your radiator cap could be bad. You could test it or buy a new one. Yanmar Tractor Parts: RADIATOR CAP

I have a light...... how can I test to see that it works?

I don't know about the cap......but I see that the sub-tank is leaking a small amount of fluid; it's not watertight. That might account for any loss.....

 

[stormpetrel]

My 2002 level stays pretty constant in the radiator and overflow reservoir. Occasionally it may put a little in the overflow and then suck it back in. Haven't had to add fluid in either for 6 months or longer. You didn't mention overheating so I'm assuming that is not the problem. Do you have a temperature gage or light? Your radiator cap could be bad. You could test it or buy a new one. Yanmar Tractor Parts: RADIATOR CAP Might also observe your overflow jug while running for bubbles. If you have any it could be a blown head gasket. Been there, done that.

Ruh roh.......that has me very worried about the gurgling noise
Would the bubbles be exhaust gas?

 

[winston1]

If it is not hot and boiling the answer would probably be yes, exhaust gases. Also, if this gurgling is happening soon after cranking I wouldn't worry to much about the light.

 

[stormpetrel]

If it is not hot and boiling the answer would probably be yes, exhaust gases. Also, if this gurgling is happening soon after cranking I wouldn't worry to much about the light.

Wish the thing had a temp gauge.......that's what I'm used to with boat engines. I don't even know if the light works (although the oil pressure & alternator lights do). The prior owner was pretty meticulous, had flushed the radiator out not too long ago. Also, the sub-tank is new.

Gurgling is while engine is running at slow idle to cool down before shutting down

The question is........is it normal for there to be back-and-forth between the radiator & sub-tank???????

 

[winston1]

"Is it normal to have back-and-forth between radiator and sub tank?" Not on my 2002. That's all I'm certain of.

 

[stormpetrel]

As a follow-up question: does anyone know what the operation temp range is?

170.....180?
I ordered a non-contact IR thermometer, will check the temp at the head while warm.............

 

[winston1]

Here is what Hoye says. How Hot Should My Tractor Run?

 

[careyo63]

I don't notice much water transfering between my bottle and radiator. Only in the summer heat.Maybe an 1/8 of a inch tops.You should be able to tell if the temp. light is working by removeing the wire to the Sender and grounding it out. That should make the temp. light come on. If it was mine I would be flushing it out again. After checking the water temp and it's not hot and still does it check how Pressured up you Radiator is getting.Head or H.gasket. There are some auto parts stores that will have a pressure gauge that is a Radiator Cap with a pressure gauge on it you can rent.

carey

 

[normde2001]

"The question is........is it normal for there to be back-and-forth between the radiator & sub-tank???????"

Yes, that is the sole purpose of the "sub-tank", (overflow bottle). Before the mid '60's when you filled the radiator of a water cooled engine, when reaching op temps water would blow out the overflow tube, leaving 1-2" of permanent air space in the radiator. Since then, an overflow bottle was added to every water cooled engine in the world to syphon that water back into the radiator when it cooled. Fill the rad, then fill the bottle to the line or a little over, the water should rise to near full when hot and lower back to the line when cool. Anything other than that is a problem.

 

[Semper Fly]

not sure about the 2210 but my FX20D has a TEST light that should light up all the lamps (if they're working).

 

[careyo63]

I'm sure that may be true. But if your setup is like the YM2000 when you turn the Ign. switch on and or back for your Thermal Start your Oil and CHG. will only come on. The Temp. switch grounds out when the Water Temp. Reaches 220F. the Oil Goes out when it comes up to Pressure. Same with the Alt/CHG light it goes out when it reaches proper voltage.
The Old School way to check you Water Temp Sender or the same as a thermostat pull it off Boil some water up to temp. and watch it open. But with a sender quickly screw it back in hooked up and watch for the light to come on when it makes good contact or ground. Shouldn't have to tighten it all the way up

Carey

 

[clemsonfor]

I have a light...... how can I test to see that it works?

I don't know about the cap......but I see that the sub-tank is leaking a small amount of fluid; it's not watertight. That might account for any loss.....

My cap is not tight either. As i run and get to operating temp it pushes fluid into the overflow, not increasing the level more than an inch or 2 at the most, i really dont look that hard. But as it goes out the tube into that tube top combo as the engine is vibrating the mount it slops out of the bottle cap a little and drools down the side and onto the battery a little. I added a little to much last time i changed the radiator, but in the last 45 hours on the clock have not had to add any as cold it is at the bottom of the line.

The gurgling you hear is the cap opening after its off cause the heat causes the cap to pop from pressure and it pushed the fluid into the bottle and as it cools it sucks it back in, if it goes down as much as you describe you leak is a little more than mine is from my bottle, as i said i dont recal adding any in 45 hours on the machine, which is prabably more like 60 hours on your watch with this variable hour meter.

If it pulls that fluid in and is still low in the rad when cold you need to add more to get to the top of the rad and to the line in the overflow.

Mine had a split radiator as did the 2 that they pulled as replacements for the first bad one, till they finally bought me a new one when i got my tractor. These things are run with no antifreeze and i think they split when they freeze.

I would say get it hot by bushhoging and then get it dusy and the dust will stick to any leaky radiator fluid to help you see the leak, that is if you cant really see the wet?

 

[Car Doc]

I hate to say it because I am so proud of my beautiful little rebuilt 3810D I bought little over a year ago but mine is doing the same thing I just proved it last Friday you may have a head gasket bad, read what I did to verify mine it may help you on yours hopefully.

I was always having a little trouble right from the get go with the overflow bottle staying equalized from warm up cycle to WU cycle.

I first found they had put a 5lb cap on it and it calls for a 15 so that helped keep coolant in temporarily but it would not return to the radiator 1st bad sign. So I installed a new cap and tubing on the overflow bottle and verified no air leaks in the closed system but it still didn't work.

So as luck would have it I had a fellow stop by last Friday that had seen the tractor soon after I bought it and he was now interested in buying one of his own so while showing it to him running with the hood up I see the death bubbles in the overflow bottle ah crap I said to myself. I don't know if he noticed it or not neither of us mentioned it.

I checked it with diesel combustion cooling system tester and got a negative result so can only conclude it was bad test fluid. I have more ordered to try again and will post back for anyone that's interested in whether that is a viable test or not. (gas engine test fluid works fine on gas engines fwtw, I have no experience w/diesels testing this way though)

So I put my radiator pressure tester on it and started the engine sure enough it went all the way into the red (18psi+) immediately. So while it still runs fine I am now going to have to pull the head off sooner or later and see where the combustion is getting in the cooling system. good luck to both of us

I know am not looking forward to tearing into a tractor with only 100 hours since buying it even as easy as it is to work on and I am sure you aren't wanting to tear into yours either.

 

[6thgpSF]

also could check your oil,if milky looking or overfull could be a bad hg russ

 

[stormpetrel]

I hate to say it because I am so proud of my beautiful little rebuilt 3810D I bought little over a year ago but mine is doing the same thing I just proved it last Friday you may have a head gasket bad, read what I did to verify mine it may help you on yours hopefully.

I was always having a little trouble right from the get go with the overflow bottle staying equalized from warm up cycle to WU cycle.

I first found they had put a 5lb cap on it and it calls for a 15 so that helped keep coolant in temporarily but it would not return to the radiator 1st bad sign. So I installed a new cap and tubing on the overflow bottle and verified no air leaks in the closed system but it still didn't work.

So as luck would have it I had a fellow stop by last Friday that had seen the tractor soon after I bought it and he was now interested in buying one of his own so while showing it to him running with the hood up I see the death bubbles in the overflow bottle ah crap I said to myself. I don't know if he noticed it or not neither of us mentioned it.

I checked it with diesel combustion cooling system tester and got a negative result so can only conclude it was bad test fluid. I have more ordered to try again and will post back for anyone that's interested in whether that is a viable test or not. (gas engine test fluid works fine on gas engines fwtw, I have no experience w/diesels testing this way though)

So I put my radiator pressure tester on it and started the engine sure enough it went all the way into the red (18psi+) immediately. So while it still runs fine I am now going to have to pull the head off sooner or later and see where the combustion is getting in the cooling system. good luck to both of us

I know am not looking forward to tearing into a tractor with only 100 hours since buying it even as easy as it is to work on and I am sure you aren't wanting to tear into yours either.

I don't want to tear into the engine!!!! But if I have to.....I sure will. The fluid in the overflow bottle does go back into the radiator.....I haven't looked for bubbles into the overflow bottle. (I'll have to put back what I have off the tractor in preparation for hydraulics install & fire it up).

Here's a question: wouldn't I be getting water in the crankcase if the head gasket was blown? 'Cause there isn't any......

Next question.......does the temp. light lead go to the cyl. head? Do I simply take that wire off and touch it to the engine block/head? Not sure about this......

 

[stormpetrel]

also could check your oil,if milky looking or overfull could be a bad hg russ

Oils looks great and is at correct level.

If head gasket was bad, wouldn't I be losing radiator fluid?

 

[shawnjvl]

Squeeze the upper rad. hose when its hot. Does it feel hard (pressure inside)?
If its soft your system is not building pressure up correctly, Bad rad. cap

 

[normde2001]

Oils looks great and is at correct level.

If head gasket was bad, wouldn't I be losing radiator fluid?

Why do you think you have a problem of any kind? All I saw, for sure, was water rising and lowering in the overflow bottle, which is normal.