Flail Mower chain for top link, flail mower

[pat32rf]

And here my first thought of a flail mower is always two pivoted pieces of steel flailing around horizontaly, like my homemade ofset bush-hog....

 

[Walter63]

I'm coming into this discussion little late, but thought maybe my experience might shed a little more light on the subject.

If you are using a flail mower on rolling terrain, it can be frustrating if you have a rigid top link. When the tractor crests a hill and heads downward, the flail is up in the air, and when you head down into a dip and then up again, the flail digs into the ground. The further the mower extends behind you, the worse the situation is. If you get good at it, you can minimize this effect by raising and lowering the 3 point hitch on the move, as the tractor pitches up and down. A floating top link helps, or replacing the top link with a chain. With this setup, the rear roller stays on the ground, and the front of the flail stays at the height preset by the lift arms. The tractor pitching changes the height of the front of the flail less, since it's closer to the tractor rear wheels.

As far as using a chain to replace the top link on a brush hog, the reason for doing it is the same as above. I've seen the posts warning of dangers, but this must only apply to a smaller unit. Many of the larger rotary cutters are available in a semi-mounted version, which means they attach only to the lift arms, not to the top link. That means you only need a tractor with enough HP to run the cutter, not a heavy enough tractor to pick it up. Running a rigid top link on a rotary cutter whose rear wheel(s) is nine feet behind the tractor only works on level ground, at least in my experience. On my larger three point rotary cutters, I pick them up for transport, but once I get where I'm going I disconnect the top link so they can ride the contour of the terrain. Then they become, in effect, a semi-mounted unit. I don't use a chain because if the chain length is long enough to allow the needed amount of variation, it's too long to pick up the unit itself.

I hope this information may be helpful.

 

[Dead Horse]

Walter, I think you have stated the case well. Your note on the flail trailing dynamics especially resonated with me.

As well, my MX10 is a semi mount and I also note that most smaller rotaries have a flexible top link connection that allows to rear of the mower to "float" quite a considerable amount, as long as the mower is properly connected to the tractor.

The only part of yout treatise that I am still noodling is the flail dynamics when the tractor turns up hill.......

However I think I understand what you are saying. In theory, since the lower links "float" the fixed upper link should function to control the "attitude" of the mower, IE actually force up the front of the flail while the roller remains on the ground. In your scenario, forcing the front of the mower up (standing taller on its roller) whild the mower is actually going down a hill, would rais the cutting height......... So I agree completely

I currently use a fixed top link, but the mower has several mounting points for it, one of which is slotted and thus allows for play of several inches. My observation is that it is still not enough "play" so I am going to convert to a chain top link this coming mowing season.

Thanks for putting the physics into mere mortal words!

 

[greg_g]

When the tractor crests a hill and heads downward, the flail is up in the air, and when you head down into a dip and then up again, the flail digs into the ground.

All that means is that your TPH is not adjusted to float adequately. Given enough float in the lower arms, what you describe shouldn't happen. And I'm not a flail mower guru, but I've never seen a (new) one that didn't have some kind of floating toplink bracket. On those used mowers where some previous owner bent/broke/lost them, they're easily obtainable as aftermarket replacements.

That said, a chain and a floating toplink bracket are mutually self-defeating.

//greg//

 

[SPYDERLK]

All that means is that your TPH is not adjusted to float adequately. Given enough float in the lower arms, what you describe shouldn't happen. And I'm not a flail mower guru, but I've never seen a (new) one that didn't have some kind of floating toplink bracket. On those used mowers where some previous owner bent/broke/lost them, they're easily obtainable as aftermarket replacements.

That said, a chain and a floating toplink bracket are mutually self-defeating.

//greg//

Since at least the front end of most 3pt implements are suspended from the lift arms in use the implement wont float downward to comply with terrain. A loose chain for a toplink helps by letting the tailwheel pivot up and down to comply with terrain. A floating toplink bracket is often best tho, as the tailwheel is allowed only a given amount of free motion. When it hits the limit of the bracket free motion going up it causes the lower lift arms to be driven upward as well. This can prevent the front of the implement from digging in badly.
larry

 

[RalphVa]

You could buy a couple of those big wheels that are used on trailer hitches. Attach them to the rear corners of your flail. I considered attaching a couple of them to the front edges of my bush hog but never have done it. You can buy a fairly heavy duty wheel and adjustable standard at TSC.

Our land here is very hilly and uneven. I run my bush hog with just a chain, or nothing, on the top link because the hog will follow the uneven terrain a lot better than my sliding top link will allow. The chain is only needed if you back into gulleys or off the side of creeks, etc.

If I run with the top link in place, the silly machine is banging around back there when I have it raised. It's a lot quieter when the bush hog is not running with no top link or just a chain.

Ralph

 

[blackie65]

I am new to tph and their versatility. Is there anyone that can post a pic of a floating top link or a chain top link.
what ya'll are saying makes sense but this silly brain just can't picture it.

 

[greg_g]

Since at least the front end of most 3pt implements are suspended from the lift arms in use the implement wont float downward to comply with terrain.

Yes. It will. Perhaps you don't understand the principle of "floating". The more you lengthen the distance between the upper and lower lift arms, the more the TPH will float. Short version; get your lower lift arms as close to the dirt as possible - low enough where you have to LIFT THEM UP to attach to the implement. This is done with the adjustable vertical links and/or moving them between/among the various pin holes on the lower lift arms. The more the implement is permitted to float, the less it gets picked up off the ground when cresting hills, and vice versa

Oh, and another thing you apparently don't realize Larry - is that there's no tail wheel on a flail mower.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

I am new to tph and their versatility. Is there anyone that can post a pic of a floating top link or a chain top link.
what ya'll are saying makes sense but this silly brain just can't picture it.

To the best of my knowledge, no responsible manufacturer produces a "chain toplink". They can't afford the liability insurance. Anything you've heard about them comes from folks who think they know better.

A floating toplink bracket is simply 1 or 2 extra pieces that pin to the top of certain implement A-frames (there are some implements that you do NOT want to float). The most common is the U-type (1 piece), followed by parallel straps (2 piece). In each case they're pinned to the implement A-frame. They pivot. The tractor's toplink then pins to them. The tractor-implement toplink configuration is now no longer 100% rigid, in that the floating bracket pivots between the toplink and the implement.

Here's a shot of one of mine. Depending upon the height relationship between the tractor and the implement, the bracket "floats" either above or inside the A-frame. In this case - when the front end of the tractor becomes lower than the back end - the toplink pivots the bracket forward, but does not extert any pull or lift on the implement unless/until full forward travel of the bracket is exceeded.

//greg//

 

[Heavyduty]

When the toplink is attached to the mower, the mower wheel will raise up when your rear tractor wheels crest a hill. This will cause the mower to slam down on the material your trying to cut. I learned this summer, while cutting weeds 5 foot tall, that my tractor engine didn't bog down as bad when I let the mower float with the ground. :thumbsup: