Bx1860 vx B2320 - Contrast/Compare

[bp fick]

Unless the B2320 HST is completely different from the B3200, you don't have to use the clutch to change ranges. In fact it is often easier if you don't from my experience. You stop, if the lever moves easily you move the lever, if it does not you hold the brakes firmly for a couple seconds and it will shift easily. By holding the brakes it forces the hst to relieve the pressure off the drivetrain and makes it easy to shift. With the clutch pushed in the hst pump stops turning altogether and sometimes it wont line up the gears then. Sometimes a little tap forward or back on the hst pedal makes it shift easier too, mine has gotten much easier to shift with a few hours on it as well (about 250hrs now).

I don't know about the B3200, but the manual on the 20 series, pg 22 says this:

"The range gear shift can only be shifted when the tractor is completely stopped and the clutch pedal is depressed."

IMPORTANT: Depress the clutch pedal and stop the tractor.
Do not force the range gear shift lever.

The it goes on to talk about moving the lever, if it doesn't want to move, by depressing the brake pedal and so forth.

It would interesting to see if the B3200 is different and how the manual is worded.

 

[bp fick]

The thing I have a hard time remembering to do is to let the engine braking slow down the rotary cutter before disengaging the clutch. If there's a problem I just push the clutch in, but in normal operation it's better for the clutches to engage/disengage at a lower speed IMO. Mine's gear drive, which is different than the over-running clutch on the HST model. When you take your foot off the fuel, everything slows down, including the PTO. No slippage at all.

Sean

Sean, I see you have a DT. But with any PTO, yes, it is easier on anything and everything, in normal operations, to slow everything down before engaging or disengaging the PTO. Far less shock to the system. Even folks with Craftsman lawn mowers ought to do this. Those electric clutch pacs aren't cheap. Which is why, in an emergency, that clutch pedal is your friend.

'Cause when jamming the blades on a rock or stick, or what have you, any emergency situation, step on that clutch!!! My grandpa used to say, "be shed of that thing!"

 

[bp fick]

Operating The Field Cultivator​

I use the the field cultivator two ways. First, I use it as a spring tooth drag or harrow. I would like to have small section of traditional drag, but haven't taken the time to get one. They are still very popular and fetch a stiff price, if they are in good shape.

The cultivator I have is standard KK, Cat 1 and is an implement that I did not buy in the XB size. I didn't see one in XB and if I saw one on line, it didn't look to be as quality a piece, nor have the flexibility in positioning the tines I needed. The KK was very inexpensive and has movable C tines. It is a very tall unit and the BX1860 could just pick it up and move it to the field across the yard. The turnbuckle check chains on the BX got bent by this unit more than once. It was simply too large for the BX, any BX to handle.

As a row cultivator, the BX simple did not have the ground clearance to be of much practical use. It could not pass over any plant more than 5" tall. This implement and it's use as a one row cultivator is what doomed the BX. My 1860 was fitted with wheels/tires from the larger BX, to give it that added inch of clearance, but it still was far from enough.

Today, I just used it as a drag to pull all the stubble, dead vines, stalks and chaff from the field. Then, I dressed the soil with compost material and dragged it in. The B2320 has a larger geometry 3 pt and it handled this implement very well. It's not growing season so I will have to wait until next year to do any row cultivation.

Thanks to Jinman for the photo of the old C tine drag.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I don't know about the B3200, but the manual on the 20 series, pg 22 says this:

"The range gear shift can only be shifted when the tractor is completely stopped and the clutch pedal is depressed."

IMPORTANT: Depress the clutch pedal and stop the tractor.
Do not force the range gear shift lever.

The it goes on to talk about moving the lever, if it doesn't want to move, by depressing the brake pedal and so forth.

It would interesting to see if the B3200 is different and how the manual is worded.

Just went and read the manual, and you are right, it's worded exactly like yours is. I was going off the label next to the range shifter on the tractor. It gives the procedure but doesn't say to use the clutch. FWIW though, as long as you are completely stopped and don't grind the gears or force the lever there's no harm in not using the clutch.

 

[bp fick]

Well, ladies and gentlemen, this about concludes my first week's review of the B2320 in light my experience doing similar tasks with my recently parted BX1860. I've tried to review the "seat of the pants" subjective/objective differences.

I've run the middle buster and the FEL. Mowed the grass with RFM and used the field cultivator. Of course, I also done a handful of utilitarian things such as move some sand and tow the trailer around.

Until the snow flies, I'll put this review on hold, basically, for awhile. After I get a chance to plow some serious snow, perhaps I'll resurrect this thread and add that comparison. Thanks to all and I hope some of the information was helpful to anyone who wants to compare a Bxx20 to a BX Kubota. Best regards,

 

[DeltaT]

Great write-up. It has been very helpful.
I am in the process of buying a compact tractor and narrowed it down to a Kubota B or BX. You convinced me that the B is the better choice (for me).

Thank you:thumbsup:

 

[medicshawn]

I will add my comments about marking the lawn with the tractor. I started with a B7800 with RFM with loaded turfs moved up to a L3940 with loaded R4 and a 7 foot RFM and now have a BX1860. I didn't have any problems with marking of the lawn except when I put ag tires on the B7800. I have lots of hills and with the exception of making turns to fast going downhill/uphill or being in 4WD I didn't have any problems with marking. I always mowed with the 3940 with the loader installed. I'm still undecided on the best choice RFM Vs MMM. I definitely miss the 7 foot cutting width and being able to back under obstacles. I had a pretty wide open place to cut with the 3940. I really thought I was going to hate the BX and the MMM but I actually like it more than I thought. I like having a standard steering wheel instead of the zero turn controls. Unfortunately we downsized our property so the wife could go back to school. So I will learn to love my BX. The 3 point on the BX leaves alot to be desired but so far that's my only complaint.

 

[harpoonalt]

Thanks for the review BP. You're partly to blame for me trading my BX in on a B2320. I was leaning and you pushed me over the edge. I'm enjoying the pictures until mine comes in,which is hopefully soon. This waiting is killing me

 

[bp fick]

Plowing Snow With B2320

Since I promised to update this review when snow plowing came around, I thought I'd take a minute to do so. Got home from a long business trip in Texas to find bitter cold, 7F temps and 6-8 inches of snow to clear. I had been expecting a bit more, but our area doesn't get lake enhanced effects.

I have a block heater on the B, so I plugged it in for 90 minutes. Glowed the plugs for 6 or 7 Mississippi and it fired to life. The first thing I noticed was just how quiet this D1005 engine is, even when it's cold. By quiet, I mean it just doesn't hammer like the BX1860.

The hydraulics didn't seem to mind the cold. It always took a few minutes before the hydraulics limbered up on the BX. It might be the larger B2320 pump flow, but the FEL lifted normally and the 3 pt snapped the back blade up immediately. I gently rolled the tractor out and idled it a bit outside.

Here is what I noticed.

The 1/4 valving on the 2320 simply works better and allowed better control. The larger wheels and tires also "creep" through the deep snow better and held their traction well, even with unloaded R4 tires. I don't recall any wheel spin.

The BX is more nimble in tight quarters, but the B can track through the deeper snow better. The quieter engine and much quieter HST made the experience more enjoyable.

The BX was armed with an amazing front, full hydraulic blade and THAT was a thing of beauty and I still miss it, even though it was frightfully expensive for a limited use implement.

I'm sure there will be many more opportunities this winter to work and evaluate the B2320, but rest assured, it will clean up a 300' drive efficiently, with just a cheap back blade and the FEL.
​

 

[bp fick]

Snow Plowing On The B2320

I've had time now to plow a few times with the B and wished to add a few more comments to my rather lengthy review, in hopes of helping anyone considering either the BX or B in the 20 series.

Since the step up into the B's operator platform is taller, it is a stretch, but with heavy winter boots and thick clothing, it is an even harder task. Might want to look into a step.

There were wheel weights on my BX, which in retro-spect, made a huge difference in plowing snow. I find the traction less than ideal on the 20 series B and really wish I had located some wheel weights for it. I am getting by, but the difference is amazing without them. Loading the tires would provide a similar thing, but am still debating, in my mind, the effects on the lawn of loaded tires. We shall see what the future brings.

While I do like the position of the joystick at the hip, it is easy to bump inadvertently when turning around to see what's happening in the rear. I know of no cure except awareness.

I have yet to fully switch between forward/reverse on the pedals as quickly as I did on the BX. The spacing seems farther apart on the B2320, but I will adjust, I am sure.

What is enjoyable is the low engine noise. The B2320's D1005 engine produces its power at a lower RPM and this is greatly appreciated. The hydro is almost silent in comparison to the BX as well. Wonderful.

The B2320. It's a keeper.




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