Bx1860 vx B2320 - Contrast/Compare

[TigerfaninAR]

Well, there is so little difference in money, and when financed, you're only talking $10 or $20 a month difference between the BX2660 and the B2320.

We're not talking a $4000 difference or something. Thus, your decision simply comes down to your tastes concerning the features and/or your need for center of gravity versus ground clearance differences.

I've researched for over 2 years and still not completely sure. Started a thread in the Summer about it and the consensus was the BX but will have some dirt to move around and spread with the boxblade, little more than originally thought. Land is flat but a little area that is wooded that will definitely require some protection underneath if the BX is the choice. All in all the only thing that doesn't have me 100% for the B is a few posters that have mentioned the geometry of the front tires and how that affects the grass while turning.

 

[bp fick]

Since thousands of B 20 series tractors are built, marketed and sold by Kubota as mowing tractors, it seems a stretch to think they all tear up grass. If it were a universal problem, in most or all soil conditions, soon, no one would ever again buy a Kubota B series with MMM. I dunno.

I've researched for over 2 years and still not completely sure. Started a thread in the Summer about it and the consensus was the BX but will have some dirt to move around and spread with the boxblade, little more than originally thought. Land is flat but a little area that is wooded that will definitely require some protection underneath if the BX is the choice. All in all the only thing that doesn't have me 100% for the B is a few posters that have mentioned the geometry of the front tires and how that affects the grass while turning.

I can only tell you I mowed yesterday, with RFM, no Fel on, and it was absolutely no different than my BX. Zip. No damage.

 

[CHDinCT]

BP, nice running conversation of the puts and takes between the two. I will add this thread to favorites to refer back to in case I ever make a similar jump to what you've done. One difference I'd like to get your feedback on (and others) is the independent PTO on the BX vs the live on the B. How does the B's operate and which do you prefer, or should I ask is the independent version anything to worry about giving up?

 

[OrangeRidge]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/142571-live-vs-independent-power-take.html

I learn something every day on TBN ! Didn't know there were
PTO engagement differences .

 

[bp fick]

BP, nice running conversation of the puts and takes between the two. I will add this thread to favorites to refer back to in case I ever make a similar jump to what you've done. One difference I'd like to get your feedback on (and others) is the independent PTO on the BX vs the live on the B. How does the B's operate and which do you prefer, or should I ask is the independent version anything to worry about giving up?

The B tractors have a real clutch with a pedal on the left, where a clutch should be.

You should/must use the clutch before making changes in range or PTO. That only took a day to revert back to. Clutches are second nature to me.

Once you release the clutch, all the HST features are the same. Forward, backward, or neither. With the gear B2320DT, you cannot come to a stop without pushing in the clutch, of course. On the gear tractor, the PTO would stop as well every time you stop, reverse, for forward again.

This was the major reason why I did not go with the gear model, but spent the $1100 (give or take) for the hydro. Since there is almost no whine, I am very glad I did.

When mowing yesterday, I could stop, reverse, make three point turns, etc and mower keeps right on going. So I see no difference in comparison to the BX whatsoever. With the gear, I would not have liked the mower constantly stopping/re-starting every time I stopped or changed direction.

Again, you only use the clutch to change a range setting, or change a PTO setting. It has nothing to do with the movement of the tractor.

 

[bp fick]

Here is a full explanation of the differences in live PTO. They are both modern, live PTO systems, but different.
http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Power Take Off Types.htm

I won't rehash this information in the link, but the BX and B series are different. The BX likely uses the one type because it is user friendly. The B uses the other type. What I do like about the PTO on the B series is that if you got into a situation of some kind with your mower, you simply, quickly and instinctively stop on the clutch pedal and you're "disconnected" from your mower. My reflexes of stepping on a clutch at the first sign of any trouble is pretty instinctive.

With a BX, you'd have to come to a stop, then find and move the PTO lever.

 

[CHDinCT]

Thanks BP. Sounds relatively simple and straightforward. I think I'd worry about remembering to clutch for the range change more than the PTO engage/disengage coming from a BX. Ultimately, it's just a habit change that requires a little time to get use to, speaking of the B HST models that is.

 

[bp fick]

Thanks BP. Sounds relatively simple and straightforward. I think I'd worry about remembering to clutch for the range change more than the PTO engage/disengage coming from a BX. Ultimately, it's just a habit change that requires a little time to get use to, speaking of the B HST models that is.

Chris, you'd change over quick. That clutch pedal is right in your eye sight.
Since the range change isn't something you can do on the run anyhow, on a Kubota. (I think CC Yanmar does, on some models.)

Left foot clutch INSTANT reaction, at any sign of trouble is pretty much standard tractoring, at least for us old timers who brush hogged, baled hay, etc. It's what you left foot does. On the BX there isn't anything for the left foot.

 

[Chilly807]

The thing I have a hard time remembering to do is to let the engine braking slow down the rotary cutter before disengaging the clutch. If there's a problem I just push the clutch in, but in normal operation it's better for the clutches to engage/disengage at a lower speed IMO. Mine's gear drive, which is different than the over-running clutch on the HST model. When you take your foot off the fuel, everything slows down, including the PTO. No slippage at all.

Sean

 

[Verticaltrx]

Thanks BP. Sounds relatively simple and straightforward. I think I'd worry about remembering to clutch for the range change more than the PTO engage/disengage coming from a BX. Ultimately, it's just a habit change that requires a little time to get use to, speaking of the B HST models that is.

Unless the B2320 HST is completely different from the B3200, you don't have to use the clutch to change ranges. In fact it is often easier if you don't from my experience. You stop, if the lever moves easily you move the lever, if it does not you hold the brakes firmly for a couple seconds and it will shift easily. By holding the brakes it forces the hst to relieve the pressure off the drivetrain and makes it easy to shift. With the clutch pushed in the hst pump stops turning altogether and sometimes it wont line up the gears then. Sometimes a little tap forward or back on the hst pedal makes it shift easier too, mine has gotten much easier to shift with a few hours on it as well (about 250hrs now).