Mf 135 starting problem

[grangenumber4]

First let me say I am not a expert with these tractors, however I have one, that starts very easily even when below 32F, and believe me before I started using it, it had no maintenance at all.
I have a few questions, during the restore what all was restored, just bodywork? any engine work performed? Injector pump work? Really sounds like a fuel issue, have read on this site about lift pumps, even new ones not working correctly. When the tractor is running does it seem to run properly? Will probably ask more questions after your responses
Billy

we restored all the body work on it and then proceeded to change the clutch and get the injectors restored by an expert, when we had to change the front and back end crank shaft oil seals which was also done by and expert. the only work we done til the injector was having to reset timing on it as it went off during the restoration, which im pretty sure thats no the fault as the tractor has been starting on the battery before just not it got worse and worse, and i recently replaced the lift put as one of valves got loose and was destroyed

 

[grangenumber4]

Lol. That is a problem. You would need a Clamp type amp meter that reads at least 600 amps. Hook it around the large wire going to the starter. I use a 1000 amp Fluke. Simply take a reading while cranking. Excluding inrush spike, I would not expect much over 350 amps out of that machine. Maybe, 100 amps higher when really cold. Do you know an electrician or mechanic?

do you mean connect it in parallel to the positive led from the batter to the starter, and what wil this reading tell me. i might have til resort til a mechanic in the end which i really dont want til want til do it all my self

 

[kjung17]

Sorry, I didn't explain the test. A diesel engine needs 4 things to start. Fuel, compression, air and cranking speed. I suspect your starter is either worn out or is in a bind. The type of meter that I use actually clamps over the wire. It's an inductive pickup. No need to remove the wire. In some cases the clamp is an attachment to the meter. Most meters can only handle 10 amps, internally. Yes, the wire from the battery to the starter. Was the starter off, during the restoration? Does the starter or battery cable get hot or warm when you crank it?

 

[grangenumber4]

tanks for explainig that, and yes the connection would be boiling after turning it, i have an idea to check if its the starter, we have a 35 bout the yard and its a good enough starter so i mite take the starter from it and try in on the 135 to see if it makes it any better

 

[kjung17]

Gosh I'm Dumb. I just now saw that you're in Ireland. It really is a small world. Feel free to send pictures of that beautiful countryside.:thumbsup: Is the Guinness better in the homeland?:drink:

 

[grangenumber4]

Gosh I'm Dumb. I just now saw that you're in Ireland. It really is a small world. Feel free to send pictures of that beautiful countryside.:thumbsup: Is the Guinness better in the homeland?:drink:

believe it or not but im not a guinness man, but id guess it is plus ive never been in the states but hopefully il make a trip over in the summer would love til work on the harvests over there

 

[leveled]

my battery is over a 1000 cold cranking amps at 0 degrees, and I used really big cables with solder ends to a Delco starter my 165 cranks fast. This was an issue when i bought it since they put a wimp battery in it. Do you get fuel at all injectors? I bleed from the injectors while cranking 1 at a time, the injectors are the highest point, I use gravity first. Hope you get it running and have no major issues. Do they use the Perkins diesel in the 135's? Do you have Multipower?

 

[grangenumber4]

the system is total bleed for def, yes its tha perkins and no shes not a multipower, the tractor really isnt a 135, its a 2135 the industrial version, but before we got the tractor someone had repainted it like the 135 which it really is

 

[Mur386]

tanks for explainig that, and yes the connection would be boiling after turning it, i have an idea to check if its the starter, we have a 35 bout the yard and its a good enough starter so i mite take the starter from it and try in on the 135 to see if it makes it any better

How long are you cranking on the engine at a time, just wondering. And you have said it seems to be struggling to turn over, have you checked voltage at starter cable to see what voltage reads while cranking?
If you tow to start does it start easily?
Have attempted to turn the engine by hand to see if crank moves fairly freely? Should not be difficult to turn until a cylinder is generating some compression.

 

[grangenumber4]

i could be cracking for up to 10 to 15 mins but that is not constant, i would put the heat plug on for a min or two and try starting it, and do this process over and over, the smoke is white and goes black as if the tractor is going to start and then go back to white again
and then after a while the cranking momentum would pick up and the tractor would start, but it would still take good 15 mins, when you pull start it she fires first time with little effort