SSQA frame repair

[jcliburn]

Yeah rjmack, the pads are good, but the crosstube was slightly bent right where it connects to one of the pads, resulting in the offset you see in the pictures of post #6. Your proposed solution would work.

The tube was also twisted, and making the cut in the middle (see post #6) allowed me to eliminate the twist by simply curling the freed pad, but of course I was then left with the offset due to the bend.

I made a second cut as I proposed in post #7, which left me with about an 18" section of removed tube. I then beveled all the severed tube ends in preparation for welding.

I attached the bucket to make sure the pads were properly aligned and left it attached while I fit the severed tube section back in place. I had to grind a little here and a little there off both ends of the tube section in order to get a decent fit without placing tension on anything.

Finally, I "welded" the tube back in place. I use quotes because I've never welded pipe before, and it looks truly wretched, but it's solid. The crosstube now has a noticeable bend in it at the weld joints, but the pads are lined up right throughout the full dump and curl range.

I'm ashamed to post pictures of it because it looks like something from Ma & Pa Kettle. Maybe later after a six pack my inhibitions will be lowered and I'll show you what it looks like.

Jay

 

[blueriver]

Jay ... Don't be ashamed of any welding, be proud you had the get up and go get her done attitude. A good saying ... "it may not be so pretty for nice, but she is solid"

Glad you got it back together

 

[rjmack]

Finally, I "welded" the tube back in place. I use quotes because I've never welded pipe before, and it looks truly wretched, but it's solid.

no offense intended, but if it looks wretched... it probably is.

you might try going downhill overtop of whatever you have in place to try smooth it out a bit. there are plenty of details to debate, but in some circumstances it really is easier to weld downhill than up.

and you end up with just as good a job

just remember to generally run more heat downhill than uphill. :thumbsup:

 

[jcliburn]

Haven't quite had the six pack yet, but working on it. :drink:

I went back and did a little grinding and ran another bead that didn't cause me to weep. It should be fine.

Now that it's been primed and painted, it ain't half bad, aside from the crooked crosstube. Plates are square and I've tested my bucket and grapple for fit.

Here's how it turned out before painting. 7018 1/8" at 125 amps on the Everlast PA160. (MAN, am I glad I bought that thing last summer!)

 

[Shield Arc]

Finally, I "welded" the tube back in place. I use quotes because I've never welded pipe before, and it looks truly wretched

That's why they have grinders!

 

[Shield Arc]

I may have welded a little more pipe than you have, but on that small of diameter of pipe I would have used 3/32-inch 7018, at 75 to 80-amps.

 

[Shield Arc]

If you had a torch you could fix that bow in the tube. Heat a oval underneath the tube where I drew the arrow. Heat to almost a cherry red, than take a wet rag and place it on the red oval.
DO NOT HEAT ON TOP, NO MATTER WHAT ANYBODY SAYS! :laughing:

 

[rjmack]

you nailed it on one axis anyway, and the welds don't look to 'muscular'...

should be good:thumbsup:

i was lucky when i got the first damage to my machine. small dent in a hard to notice spot.

 

[jcliburn]

I may have welded a little more pipe than you have, but on that small of diameter of pipe I would have used 3/32-inch 7018, at 75 to 80-amps.

Heh, if you've welded ANY pipe, you've welded more of it than I have. :laughing:

I went with 1/8" rod because the tube looked to be 3/8" wall. May've been 1/4" though; I didn't measure, just eyeballed. I thought about using 3/32" rod, but I wanted to be sure I got good penetration.

 

[NH-Rob]

Looks like a good farm repair to me. not always pretty but works just the same.
Rob