Uh-oh. This could be serious.

   / Uh-oh. This could be serious. #41  
This thread is in the Massey Ferguson forum, so I hope not. :thumbdown:

Maybe his Kabota is a wannabe MF.:laughing:

Sorry, no insult intended. Kabota makes some great machines too.
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious.
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Jeff, if you read through the thread you'll see what the problem was. My GC started well when it was new, but hasn't been up to snuff for about a year, requiring a lot of extra heat from somewhere.

Not now. Bad ground strap was the culprit, and was apparently giving me trouble long before it finally broke off completely last Wednesday.

I guess Kubota chose not to use the "size extra SHORT" ground cable! :thumbsup:
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious.
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Ground cable, redux:

I've decided that, since it was such an issue, I'm going to install a SECOND ground strap/cable on the other side of the engine. Do NOT want to go through last week again!

The Iseki engine block (and the frame nearby) has the same holes as the left side --BUT-- the hole tapped into the block on the original cable was Metric 10 x 1.5 thread, and the ones on the right side are 10 x 1.25 thread. :confused::confused:

Oh, well, two trips to the hardware store to get the right bolt, and I'll be installing a second ground cable on the --other-- side. I'm just using a nut on the inside of the frame hole, as there wasn't one welded onto the inside surface.

For the cost of 11 bucks or so, I figured it was worth it to add a second ground.:)

Pic shows the tapped holes in the right side of the block, 10 x 1.25.
 

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   / Uh-oh. This could be serious. #44  
Ground cable, redux:

I've decided that, since it was such an issue, I'm going to install a SECOND ground strap/cable on the other side of the engine. Do NOT want to go through last week again!
Good idea, why didn't I think of that? :thumbsup:

Perhaps a good practice here would be to add an additional ground strap somewhere, as a back up.
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious.
  • Thread Starter
#45  
OK- bought a second real (not home-made:ashamed:) ground cable, now installed on right side of engine.

That oughtta hold 'er!:D

Incidentally, this is apparently the "new" version that NAPA sells; looks to be very good quality, sealed on the ends, with copper wire going all the way through to the end of the metal tip.

Musta have been crimped flat around the wire, then the hole punched through; I can see copper inside the edges of the hole on the end. Insulation/sheath is also the new much more flexible (silicone-based?) kind, same type as on good quality jumper cables. (You know, the kind that don't get impossibly stiff at anything less than 20 degrees?:laughing:)

Hopefully, it'll be a lot more than 3 years and 200 hours before I have ground problems again!:thumbsup:
 

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   / Uh-oh. This could be serious. #46  
OK- bought a second real (not home-made:ashamed:) ground cable, now installed on right side of engine.

That oughtta hold 'er!:D

Incidentally, this is apparently the "new" version that NAPA sells; looks to be very good quality, sealed on the ends, with copper wire going all the way through to the end of the metal tip.

Musta have been crimped flat around the wire, then the hole punched through; I can see copper inside the edges of the hole on the end. Insulation/sheath is also the new much more flexible (silicone-based?) kind, same type as on good quality jumper cables. (You know, the kind that don't get impossibly stiff at anything less than 20 degrees?:laughing:)

Hopefully, it'll be a lot more than 3 years and 200 hours before I have ground problems again!:thumbsup:

Tough to beat NAPA's quality.:thumbsup: Cost's more than the cheap auto parts stores, but I think this is a case where you get what you pay for.
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious. #47  
OK- bought a second real (not home-made:ashamed:) ground cable, now installed on right side of engine.

That oughtta hold 'er!:D

Incidentally, this is apparently the "new" version that NAPA sells; looks to be very good quality, sealed on the ends, with copper wire going all the way through to the end of the metal tip.

Musta have been crimped flat around the wire, then the hole punched through; I can see copper inside the edges of the hole on the end. Insulation/sheath is also the new much more flexible (silicone-based?) kind, same type as on good quality jumper cables. (You know, the kind that don't get impossibly stiff at anything less than 20 degrees?:laughing:)

Hopefully, it'll be a lot more than 3 years and 200 hours before I have ground problems again!:thumbsup:

Nice! I don't suppose you have the NAPA part number?
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious.
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Yep- Both cables I got have the same number, 711894.

They're both 4 gauge wire, 18" long. The first one, in a mostly yellow box, was the traditional style- brass ends crimped over the wire, with the usual stiff sheathing. The "new" one, in a mostly blue box, was the really nice one.

Apparently, the first one I got was old stock, the second one the newer version. You might have to check what you're handed.:thumbsup:
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious. #49  
looks nice irving,I might have to wander down to the napa on friday and grab another cable nice job,talk to you later.
 
   / Uh-oh. This could be serious.
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Remember, if you put one on the right side, the hole in the block --at least on my LRB-- was tapped with a different thread than the one on the left side: 10 x 1.25 (vs. 10 x 1.5 on the left).:confused:
 

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