trailer SPRINGS, going over instead of under
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Zork
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I agree. The trailer may not follow as nice in the turns with this reverse camber. The negative camber helps the tire roll onto the tread in turns rather than rolling off the tread in a positive camber setting.
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bolts are used in tension every day. that's about what it amounts to when you run the axle over the springs - a tension force as the axle tries to lift away from the springs. it's just a matter of designing the diameter of the bolts to compensate. over the years a lot of companies have done it. i know many jeeps have been built that way, because as mentioned earlier, people do axle flips on them to gain more wheel / tire clearance. i also know the 1st gen gm s-trucks had the axle slung over the springs. i'm sure there are a lot of others too. there's no problem in doing it, though you might want to reconsider the little 3/8" u-bolts with the generic mounting kits.
rd_macgregor
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This may be a naive question, but if the axles are cambered and you flip them over AND side to side won't you be back where you started?
Maybe that's not mechanically feasible, but it sounds topologically correct.
BOB
Maybe that's not mechanically feasible, but it sounds topologically correct.
BOB
Verticaltrx
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You're thinking of caster, not camber. In this case there is no proper way to do it other than installing new spring perches on top of the axle.
I have a small 4x6 utility trailer that I did a spring over conversion on, at first just by moving the axle without installing new perches. Due to the negative camber in that situation the trailer tracked terrible, swayed side to side and was overall miserable to pull. When I got time I put new spring perches on top of the axle so the wheels have the proper positive camber again and it pulls 100% better. Plus, running an axle with negative camber like that is a good way to permanently bend the axle tube. The camber is also built in the axle tube so it straightens out with a heavy load to prevent bending the axle. With it upside down you are encouraging more bending.
DanD78
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What was the bottom of the axle needs to stay the bottom of the axle due to the arch built in to the axle tube. I see new tires in your future.
Dan
Dan
OP
Boeing
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Hmmmm....I'll have to slide under it next time I'm up there. The axle tube sure LOOKED straight as an arrow when I rotated them. The hub (wheel plate?) looked vertical-perpendicular to the mounted wheels visually. It towed GREAT, 903 miles to VA. Then I towed it empty 90 miles to pick up some water tanks and a spreader....and 90 miles back. So far I'm really happy.:thumbsup:
Raspy
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If they are simple straight tube axles, they have no camber problem. You could just rotate the axle tube and bring the perch to the top. Keep the wheels on the same side they were on, so the brakes are not running backwards.
Of course, this won't work with offset spindles and camber bent axle tubes. But it will work with straight axles, and it sounds like that is what you have.
No need to debate this to death and think of everything we can that might go wrong. It's a simple modification.
If the axles do have a camber bend in them, and it's obvious if they do because you can simply look under the trailer and see the center of the axle is bent up, then weld on new perches above the existing ones and don't rotate the axles.
Of course, this won't work with offset spindles and camber bent axle tubes. But it will work with straight axles, and it sounds like that is what you have.
No need to debate this to death and think of everything we can that might go wrong. It's a simple modification.
If the axles do have a camber bend in them, and it's obvious if they do because you can simply look under the trailer and see the center of the axle is bent up, then weld on new perches above the existing ones and don't rotate the axles.
OP
Boeing
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John, you mentioned BRAKES.....so far I have not connected or used any?
probably not too smart). What is required to hook up the electric brakes and then....do they work? I had BOAT trailers years ago that all had SURGE hydraulic brakes, they worked fine...especially the newer trailers with DISK brakes. Are Disk brakes available for this equipment type trailer? Is it worth the expense? Thanks for all your input guys.
Rob
probably not too smart). What is required to hook up the electric brakes and then....do they work? I had BOAT trailers years ago that all had SURGE hydraulic brakes, they worked fine...especially the newer trailers with DISK brakes. Are Disk brakes available for this equipment type trailer? Is it worth the expense? Thanks for all your input guys.Rob
Raspy
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Electric brakes work very well and are better than surge brakes because you can apply them independently of the truck's brakes, but they are not good for boat trailers.
They are also cheap to buy and easy to install. Most axles have a flange already welded on the axle to mount the backing plate for each wheel. Then you run a set of two wires to the front of the trailer. These can Y to each rear wheel on an axle or there can be a set of two two wires for each wheel. Probably number 12 minimum size wire.
They feed from the truck through the plug and get the power from a brake controller.
All my trailer have drum brakes. I have a set of 3500 lb axles that will skid the wheels with a trailer GVW of about 7,000 lbs. And I use the brakes in the mountains a lot for stability and holding on grades. I just checked the brakes and they are about 1/2 gone after many thousands of miles. Never had a problem. My other trailers have 5200 lb, 6000 lb, and 7000 lb axles with electric brakes. All are fine and the bigger ones are a lot more powerful. I recently converted my 6000 lb tandem axle, 12,000 lb gross weight trailer to electric from surge.
If you have tandem axles, go with brakes on both axles.
You can find the parts on-line or at a trailer and wheel supply house.
I highly recommend them!
They are also cheap to buy and easy to install. Most axles have a flange already welded on the axle to mount the backing plate for each wheel. Then you run a set of two wires to the front of the trailer. These can Y to each rear wheel on an axle or there can be a set of two two wires for each wheel. Probably number 12 minimum size wire.
They feed from the truck through the plug and get the power from a brake controller.
All my trailer have drum brakes. I have a set of 3500 lb axles that will skid the wheels with a trailer GVW of about 7,000 lbs. And I use the brakes in the mountains a lot for stability and holding on grades. I just checked the brakes and they are about 1/2 gone after many thousands of miles. Never had a problem. My other trailers have 5200 lb, 6000 lb, and 7000 lb axles with electric brakes. All are fine and the bigger ones are a lot more powerful. I recently converted my 6000 lb tandem axle, 12,000 lb gross weight trailer to electric from surge.
If you have tandem axles, go with brakes on both axles.
You can find the parts on-line or at a trailer and wheel supply house.
I highly recommend them!
