Buying Advice 3rd function valve now or later

[93Mustang]

I am a tractor newbie so take this for what it is worth but I have a Gator light duty grapple and have been very pleased. I had Gator add extra "ribs" in the bottom part so less stuff can fall through (though it still does). The grapple has been unbelievably useful for brush cleanup relative to the bucket forks I tried first. One thing to consider is proper rear ballast with a grapple. I find the grapple puts weight sort of far out in front of the tractor and can make the rear end very light.

Enjoy the shopping process!

Dana

 

[Rockgod]

Not the exact make/model. I read a couple of threads on grapple buying. Seems like everyone has their opinion on which size/duty is best but in the end everyone likes their grapple. I'm leaning towards something like a standard duty 48" model to save on weight... maybe one with two independent cylinders if thats possible. I'll mostly be moving cut down brush,tree limbs, and logs from my property as I clear out alder and fir trees and not as much scraping out roots so the maneuverability and light weight of a standard duty 48" model is appealing to me. Any recommendations on who to go with?

Not sure what to go with. I'm leaning towards the "Worksaver" model from Percision Manufacturing. It's a 60" but light weight at around 380lbs. Just wish I could see it close up.

Someone needs to start a thread with just TBN owners and their Grapples/photos. I know there are tons of threads already I'm thinking like one big condensed version :confused2:

 

[Reg]

It is SO simple to do and CHEAP if you get the parts mail order.
Example; I put a set of 4 pairs on a Kukje tractor for about $500 a few years ago.
Prices of Prince valves haven't done up much since then, according to the various catalogs.

Why 4 ?
Well, a hydraulic top link takes up one for starters and it is worth making that a floater (was for me, your apps may be different).
The stump grinder takes two more, leaving one for a grapple.
You almost can't have too many, but ONE will almost certainly not be enough.
If you get the Prince modular valves you can always add more sections - just use 3 longer bolts.

Here's a tip;
Use a male and a female on each outlet pair, e.g. the outs are all male and the returns are all female.
Similarly use one male and one female on each implement hose pair.
You will ALWAYS couple hoses up the same way, i.e. no mistakes because left and right or up and down have become reversed due to plugging in differently.
You also buy male/female pairs every time you get an implement and they're cheaper that way.

 

[Snapper Head]

Hmmm... now I'm thinking if I don't have the dealer do it I'll be in the same boat. I'm a terrible procrastinator so I'd probably end up in the same position wishing I had done it sooner when I had a big job ahead of me.

Sounds like it might be worth having the dealer install it. How much should I expect to have to pay the dealer at the time of purchase? I.e. If I get a quote and then ask them to throw in the 3rd function valve, is is reasonable for them to do it at no extra cost or is it too costly for the dealer to expect them to do that?

Thanks for all the info everyone! Very helpful.

For me it wasn't about procrastination or money, it was about time. I simply don't have the time to buy and install the gear myself. That 1/2 day or so is too precious to spend doing it. So I had it done when I purchased.

If you negotiate on a tractor, agree on a price, and then add the valve, you won't get it for free. Dealers cannot afford to work for free, it's a very poor business model.

You may be able to negotiate a price on the full package that ends up being cheaper than if you add the valve in after the fact.


Big Al

 

[Reg]

For me it wasn't about procrastination or money, it was about time. I simply don't have the time to buy and install the gear myself. That 1/2 day or so is too precious to spend doing it. So I had it done when I purchased.

If you negotiate on a tractor, agree on a price, and then add the valve, you won't get it for free. Dealers cannot afford to work for free, it's a very poor business model.

You may be able to negotiate a price on the full package that ends up being cheaper than if you add the valve in after the fact.


Big Al

Time to sit in front of the TV and order stuff via the web ? 20 minutes ?
My UPS guy comes around 6:30 p.m. so I usually assemble whatever he brings in the evening (warm and dry indoors) then put it on the tractor the next morning.

I can't believe it would have "saved" me any time to haul the tractor back to the dealer, that is a 1/2 day project by the time I get back with the trailer and unhook it.
Same to go get it back - TWO 1/2 days ?
SO much faster to DIY (-:

 

[LittleBlueTractor]

I'm looking at getting Kubota L3540 sometime soon. I'd really like to have a grapple attachment for the FEL sometime in the future but I can't decide whether I should get the 3rd function valve when I buy the tractor or do once I'm ready to get a grapple. If I decide to save my money now, will it be a pain or cost more to do it later? Any thoughts?

I self-installed a single rear remote kit on my S3010 back in December and described some of the pros and cons in this thread:

Installing rear remote thread

I would take a serious look at rolling it into the initial deal, but if that costs too much, then consider doing it yourself later (assuming about 1/2 of the $1000 "nybirdman" mentioned above is labor and therefore the factory kit itself isn't too expensive.)

 

[nybirdman]

I checked my install prices for 2008; the valve was $779.00 and the install was about $250.00.Prices will vary by dealer.Its about a six hour job.

 

[Snapper Head]

Time to sit in front of the TV and order stuff via the web ? 20 minutes ?
My UPS guy comes around 6:30 p.m. so I usually assemble whatever he brings in the evening (warm and dry indoors) then put it on the tractor the next morning.

I can't believe it would have "saved" me any time to haul the tractor back to the dealer, that is a 1/2 day project by the time I get back with the trailer and unhook it.
Same to go get it back - TWO 1/2 days ?
SO much faster to DIY (-:

In your situation, it worked for you.

In mine, it simply was not an option. I get very few days per year at home, so I'd rather be in the seat than wrenching on the rig.

The OP is asking about the benefits of having the valves installed from the get-go, which negates carting the rig to and from the dealer.

Carry on.


Big Al

 

[Ford tractor]

For some reason $1000 for the remotes is ok with the tractor, but has been too expensive to get all by itself.

12 years and still no remotes


Get them with the machine and have the dealer install as part of the deal while you have the leverage.

 

[daveinnh]

I'd say do it at the dealer, if you even think of having it done. Get 1 or 2 rear remotes as well.