Transporting Your Utility Tractor

   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #1  

Elklakedoug

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
39
Tractor
John Deere 2320
I have a 2320 with attachments.
What do you use to transport your similarly sized tractor locally or on longer trips (ie., to my to cottage is 220 miles, etc.)

Recommendations?

Thanks-

:)
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #2  
If you need to move the tractor and a small selection of implements I would get an 80" wide floor x 16' length pull type trailer. This would allow you enough room to carry the tractor with fel and brush hog along with a smaller implement such as a box blade. I would get a tandem trailer with two 3500 lb axles for this with brakes on both axles. Lots of carhaulers like this if you don't have a problem with some extra length then get an 18 foot model.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #3  
I use a 20 foot (17 flat/3 dove tail) PJ deckover for my 2520.

You might also want to browse the "Trailers and Transportation" page in this forum to get some ideas.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2083 B.jpg
    IMG_2083 B.jpg
    468.4 KB · Views: 1,967
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #4  
Looks like an 18' deck would be a better choice - especially if you have a number of attachments.

Runner's 17' deck is about right with the mower; but it would be better with the bucket on the loader and then you could stack a box blade inside the loader bucket, etc.

AKfish
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #5  
I use a 18' 7K tandem for my B2620 Kubota-the same size as your tractor. Depending on how many implements need to go to your cottage, you may want to consider a 20' trailer.

I don't know what kind of towing vehicle you have, but trailers of this size do require a 1/2 ton pick-up or full sized SUV-depending on the weight of the trailer and how many implements you haul, you will have a trailer weight of 5-6k to pull.

Will
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks - have a new King Ranch F150 (love it) to pull with, was trying to decide 14' or 16' dual axle - figured I'd get something with sides on it to haul mulch, rocks, and other stuff (have cottage with some land and enjoy playing in the dirt landscaping, etc).

Looks like Cord gave some good comments about how to lock it down on the trailers... Do you all have D-rings on our trailers to connect to? or did you do something else?:cool:
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #7  
Looks like Cord gave some good comments about how to lock it down on the trailers... Do you all have D-rings on our trailers to connect to? or did you do something else?:cool:

Take another look at Runner's pic. There's a "rub rail" and "stake pockets" along the outside of the trailer at the edge of the trailer deck.

Some trailers (usually heavier duty than 7K) have D-rings and stake pockets. Don't believe that I've ever seen a trailer with all 3 attachment points... be very hard to access the D-rings inside of the rub rail.

AKfish
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #8  
I run an Aluma trailer Model 1026 that is an aluminum deckover trailer that is 22 foot on the flat and 4 foot on the beaver. It has two 4800 lb axles and the trailer itself only weighs 1800 lbs. It is an awesome trailer, won't rust, and is easy to hook up. Costs about double but would suggest it if you can afford it.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #9  
I would suggest at least an 18' with brakes on both axles(16' flat with 2' dovetail).I also suggest a trailer without the side rails.They make it harder to get around the equipment for tie downs and getting on and off the trailer,make your sides to fit the stake pockets . They can then be removed or added as needed for hauling loose materal.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #10  
My trailer has 4 recessed rings at the corners, and I have 4 more than I am going to add about 3 feet closer to the middle. I am going to make some sides for my trailer so I can haul loose material-I will agree with the above poster-you don't want pipe rails on a trailer that will be used for tractor hauling.

Will
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #11  
give the wife the gps and tell her its full of fuel and I will see you in a couple hours.A lot cheader than a trailer---just kidding
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #12  
My trailer has 4 recessed rings at the corners, and I have 4 more than I am going to add about 3 feet closer to the middle. I am going to make some sides for my trailer so I can haul loose material-I will agree with the above poster-you don't want pipe rails on a trailer that will be used for tractor hauling.

Will

I've hauled a fair number of "odd lots" with my trailers - balers, mowers, rakes, tedders, waterers, hay bales, tractors, Bobcat loaders, tracked excavators, etc.

One of my 14K tilt-trailers had D-rings. My current 15.7K deck-over gooseneck has stake pockets and a rub-rail.

Any guesses which trailer has greater ease of securing a load? And greater flexibility to accomodate odd-sized freight?

Yep... stake pockets with a rub rail. :thumbsup:

AKfish
 

Attachments

  • 128.jpg
    128.jpg
    567.6 KB · Views: 546
Last edited:
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #13  
My trailer has 4 recessed rings at the corners, and I have 4 more than I am going to add about 3 feet closer to the middle. I am going to make some sides for my trailer so I can haul loose material-I will agree with the above poster-you don't want pipe rails on a trailer that will be used for tractor hauling.

Will

i totally disagree....

I have a 16' pj utility with sides and a rear ramp gate...drive the tractor on with the bucket all the way to the front, put parking brake on, shut the gate, and away i go. No chains or straps, couldn't be any easier. If its gonna go somewhere it'd take a heckuva ride to jolt it off the trailer...

Of course in states where they require tie down its easy enough to tie it to the side rails or anywhere in the extra stake pockets.

The front sides come out, and double as ramps for loading a atv or whatever sideways... taking them off makes it easy to set a pallet or whatever on as well.

I haul all sorts of stuff from mowers to golf carts to tractor to landscape supplies on this trailer and i'd never own anything else.

here is a link to it...

PJ Trailers - 83" Channel Utility (U8)
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #14  
To haul my 2320 I have a 16 ft landscape type trailer that is about 76" wide. I wouldn't recommend anything less. I need to strap the discharge up on the 62 MMM to load it and it's barely long enough to balance with the loader and box blade. With the loader and 3 point log splitter, I need to be a little too far forward.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #15  
i totally disagree....

I have a 16' pj utility with sides and a rear ramp gate...drive the tractor on with the bucket all the way to the front, put parking brake on, shut the gate, and away i go. No chains or straps, couldn't be any easier. If its gonna go somewhere it'd take a heckuva ride to jolt it off the trailer...

Of course in states where they require tie down its easy enough to tie it to the side rails or anywhere in the extra stake pockets.

The front sides come out, and double as ramps for loading a atv or whatever sideways... taking them off makes it easy to set a pallet or whatever on as well.

I haul all sorts of stuff from mowers to golf carts to tractor to landscape supplies on this trailer and i'd never own anything else.

here is a link to it...

PJ Trailers - 83" Channel Utility (U8)

I would NEVER haul a tractor without chains or heavy straps . In an emergency stop you will be suprised how much force would be exerted and how quickly it will jump the rails and be in the cab of the truck with you! Hope you never have to find out,but I just won't take that chance.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #16  
I would suggest at least an 18' with brakes on both axles(16' flat with 2' dovetail).I also suggest a trailer without the side rails.They make it harder to get around the equipment for tie downs and getting on and off the trailer,make your sides to fit the stake pockets . They can then be removed or added as needed for hauling loose materal.

I agree ^^^ Price a 18' vs 20' trailer too. Shouldnt be that much $$ difference. Buying a trailer is like building a garage, never big enough. Also, the car hauler (no side rails) are so much more usable for side loading anything. Just make some sides like amaxwell said.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #17  
A 16 footer 7,000# would be enough trailer. I wouldn't go smaller than that. Tandem axles with electric brakes on one axle. Brakes on both axles is better but for the weight you are hauling brakes on one axle will work just fine. You can bigger if you want. I have owned bigger but the 16 footer is a pleasant size to pull. I have a PJ 16 footer. It has removable side/front rails and the paint is powder coat.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #18  
Check the law....In my state, you have to have brakes on both axles.

I have a 16' PJ car trailer and it serves me quite well as we have pulled it with an suv and get near the GVW when so doing. I really was trying to keep the weight down...thus the smaller trailer. I like NOT having the pipe or angle frame sides to contend with as I can haul such things as a car or wide stuff on my trailer...and more easily load building materials and such.

If I didn't have weight concerns, I would go with an 18' or longer trailer.
 
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #19  
Here's a picture of what can be loaded onto a tandem axle 16 foot flatbed rated at 10,000 lbs. This picture was taken prior to transporting my (then) new JD 4320 + 400X FEL + Bucket + Pallet Forks + Box Blade + Rototiller from the JD dealer to my ranch 325 miles distant over the Cascade Mountains in Oregon. The load was pulled using an F350 7.3 liter turbodiesel. So, a 16 foot flatbed with electric brakes should work just fine for you.

I have since moved up to a JD 5083E Ltd for which I use a 24 foot flatbed rated at 25,000 lbs because of the larger size and heavier load weight with implements.
I have a 2320 with attachments.
What do you use to transport your similarly sized tractor locally or on longer trips (ie., to my to cottage is 220 miles, etc.)

Recommendations?

Thanks-

:)
 

Attachments

  • May 2005 032.jpg
    May 2005 032.jpg
    409.6 KB · Views: 564
   / Transporting Your Utility Tractor #20  
Here's a picture of what can be loaded onto a tandem axle 16 foot flatbed rated at 10,000 lbs. This picture was taken prior to transporting my (then) new JD 4320 + 400X FEL + Bucket + Pallet Forks + Box Blade + Rototiller from the JD dealer to my ranch 325 miles distant over the Cascade Mountains in Oregon. The load was pulled using an F350 7.3 liter turbodiesel. So, a 16 foot flatbed with electric brakes should work just fine for you.

I have since moved up to a JD 5083E Ltd for which I use a 24 foot flatbed rated at 25,000 lbs because of the larger size and heavier load weight with implements.

There ya go! I don't think I could see the deck boards! Great use of space.

AKfish
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2019 MACK PINNACLE (A55745)
2019 MACK PINNACLE...
500BBL WHEELED FRAC TANK (A58214)
500BBL WHEELED...
2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 High Country 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A56858)
2014 Chevrolet...
2022 FORD E350 BOX TRUCK (A58018)
2022 FORD E350 BOX...
2018 Toro Sand Pro 5040 Bunker Rake (A59228)
2018 Toro Sand Pro...
WHISPEREATT 25 GENERATOR (INOPERABLE) (A58214)
WHISPEREATT 25...
 
Top