Oil & Fuel Ford 1700 Injector Pump Running WIDE OPEN

[Danimal]

No such luck...yet. Everything appears to turn and move and flip and spring from what can be seen. He sprayed it down good with a rust inhibitor (not PB, not WD, another type) and put it back together.

What should pull the throttle back? The dash lever pulls it back but turning the dash lever CCW lets it stay there. Am I missing a spring or perhaps something inside is just weak? Hope to have a diesel friend over to check it out.

Did find out it is an '82.

 

[JC-jetro]

No such luck...yet. Everything appears to turn and move and flip and spring from what can be seen. He sprayed it down good with a rust inhibitor (not PB, not WD, another type) and put it back together.

What should pull the throttle back? The dash lever pulls it back but turning the dash lever CCW lets it stay there. Am I missing a spring or perhaps something inside is just weak? Hope to have a diesel friend over to check it out.

Did find out it is an '82.

Okay, I looked at my picture library and could not find a pic where I directly looked down from top of the injector to see if there is a spring. What I know for a fact, the normal position of the injector arm is all the way to the right at lowest rpm. That lowest rpm is also established by throttle lever on the dash.

Does the arm on the injector pump moves right or left?
what is arm on injector position with hand throttle fully up?

A shaft comes out of opposite side of theh injector that the arm is attached to. It does have a jam nut. The arm might have slipped. I have had it happen to HVAC equipment where the damper rod slipped from the motorized controller where it messed up operation of a damper. You might have a situation like that here. Check for slippage sign or if the jam nut is tight.

On pic below I might add a spring or small bungee from the arm to something ... may be the radiator hose temporarily and test it out to see if it goes to normal low rpm and weather you could rev it up or down.

JC,



ps. I might go to my place tomorrow. I'll check for spring if i go.

 

[Danimal]

Checked the shaft to lever and no slippage. With the throttle shaft OFF and moving the lever by hand we can't change the speed. All the way forward is WOT, all the way back is WOT. No change.

When we first started, the lever was VERY stiff but now, after a week of soaking and working it, it moves pretty well. I was concerned about the insides not moving but you can feel them and see the little lever that has the spring on it move just above the governor.

I'm using "Fluid Film" for my penetrant. It is what I use on my sheep shearing equipment.

 

[JC-jetro]

Checked the shaft to lever and no slippage. With the throttle shaft OFF and moving the lever by hand we can't change the speed. All the way forward is WOT, all the way back is WOT. No change.

When we first started, the lever was VERY stiff but now, after a week of soaking and working it, it moves pretty well. I was concerned about the insides not moving but you can feel them and see the little lever that has the spring on it move just above the governor.

I'm using "Fluid Film" for my penetrant. It is what I use on my sheep shearing equipment.

I think something might be mucked up in the injector pump leading to seizing a part... Obviously you realize, " I'm just guessing" I have a exploded view of the pump that I can try to dig up if you need .

JC,

 

[Danimal]

JC, Thanks for the offer for the exploded view. I've got the one from the CNH site. I'll go through it and see what I can see. We may just pull the pump off and start scrubbing!

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, Thanks for the offer for the exploded view. I've got the one from the CNH site. I'll go through it and see what I can see. We may just pull the pump off and start scrubbing!

If you end up doing it , then please take good close up picture for my future (hopefully very distant) use. There are two plunger that are removed from the top. I might carefully take them off on the tractor for inspection and cleaning before taking the pump off. It might help some. Make sure put witness make on the injector and housing for timing the injector.

JC,

 

[Danimal]

I definitely will mark it. I do NOT want to screw the timing up. There are some marks on it already, which helped putting it back together the first time. Fortunately, the guy didn't disconnect the gears from the pump, he just left it hanging through the hole!

The two plungers, do you mean the ports for the fuel lines? We have discovered today that the rear one isn't pumping fuel yet so I've sprayed some stuff in it as well to see if I can get it moving. The lines were off of it for over a year. Even with a tarp on it, I'm sure gunk got down in there. I started trying to take the ports off the top today but they are definitely ON there.

I'll keep at it, though and keep you posted. Thanks for your help.

 

[JC-jetro]

The two plungers, do you mean the ports for the fuel lines?
I'll keep at it, though and keep you posted. Thanks for your help.

yep, I'm taking the port on top (two) that houses the plunger. It appears from studying of the diagram, there is a cam shaft with two lobes the the plunger up and down causing fuel to be pumped. pretty much like a hydro pump (positive displacement) with a swash plate. The picture below id from one of the guys here (Russel). sure wished to have an opportunity to open one up for a looksy... obviously not on a good running one. If you're careful you might be able to overhaul without buying more part.


JC,

 

[Danimal]

JC, biggest fear is breaking something! Going to pick up an impact driver tomorrow to get the 3 phillips off the side plate and a cheap deep well that I can grind down because I can't get a box end on the tops of the ports. Looks like there is also a valve underneath each one.

What the heck, it's ONLY $1700 for a new one...YIKES!

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, biggest fear is breaking something! Going to pick up an impact driver tomorrow to get the 3 phillips off the side plate and a cheap deep well that I can grind down because I can't get a box end on the tops of the ports. Looks like there is also a valve underneath each one.

What the heck, it's ONLY $1700 for a new one...YIKES!

Dan,

So you're saying 3 philips head screws are so tight that you can not get them off using screwdriver? I'd be careful with the impact driver as the case is aluminum. I'd rather destroy screw head before damaging the case. should not be too difficult to find the right screw.

Can you not use normal side of the wrench rather than the box end? how about a 6" crescent wrench? are the nuts rounded off? why not put some electrical tape on the nut to protect the surface and grabbing it with needle nose visegrip to just loosen it. I hate to booger up the nut but at times I ended up using a very small pipe wrench to loosen up rounded off nuts also.

JC,