Horse barn project

[Chilly807]

We've finally started the barn for our horses. We built the house 3 years ago, and have been putting off the barn as long as possible. Now it's time, as the missus reminds me.

We decided on a smaller size, 24 x 40 on one level, with two box stalls in one end and ground-level hay storage in the other. Concrete slab on 4 foot frost walls, with suspended plank floor in the stall area. She found some rubber stall mats to inset into the concrete in the alleyway for better footing and more cushion for the horses while they're in crossties and for farrier visits.

Initial stages are done, excavation, footings, frost walls and drain tile and underground pipe for water lines and some electrical.

I'll keep posting as the job progresses, we're expecting backfill to start on Friday, with framing due to start the following Monday.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

Here the footings are in, and the frost walls are up and forms stripped.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

The Kubota is earning it's keep these days, what with spreading excess top-soil and fill, and moving stone to cover the drain tiles. Not much weight on the rear tires when scooping a bucketful of stone, even with loaded rears.

And yes, that IS a John Deere hat, it's what they get for not giving me a Kubota hat when I got the tractor..:laughing:

Sean

 

[BeezFun]

Wow, that's built better than most houses around here. Why did you use footings instead of a floating slab? Why do you need a drain tile, is there going to be something below grade?

I'm interested in the stall mats you describe for the alley. Please post pictures when those go in.

 

[Chilly807]

We used the footings and a four foot frost wall because the two box stalls will have a suspended plank floor to be easier on the horses' legs. The open area of the foundation on the right side will be filled with rock up to about 6 inches below the top of the cement. There is a 2 inch "check" in the middle and end frost walls to lay the ends of rough-cut 2 inch planks in, which will span the 10 feet of the open area. A pressure treated 6x6 across the middle of the span will carry the horses weight.

The main part of the floor will be a concrete slab under the hay storage, tack room and storage areas. If it hadn't been for the stall areas, we could have gone with an engineered slab.

The drain tile will provide better drainage around the foundation. While not required by the building code here, it is recommended due to clay soil and a wet climate.

Sean

 

[BeezFun]

We used the footings and a four foot frost wall because the two box stalls will have a suspended plank floor to be easier on the horses' legs. The open area of the foundation on the right side will be filled with rock up to about 6 inches below the top of the cement. There is a 2 inch "check" in the middle and end frost walls to lay the ends of rough-cut 2 inch planks in, which will span the 10 feet of the open area. A pressure treated 6x6 across the middle of the span will carry the horses weight.

If I die and come back as a horse I want to live in your barn. I didn't understand what a suspended plank floor was. Treated lumber is toxic for horses, how do you plan to keep the lumber on the floor from decaying? I guess just replace it when it rots.

The drain tile will provide better drainage around the foundation. While not required by the building code here, it is recommended due to clay soil and a wet climate.

Where does it drain to? Does it go out to daylight somewhere?

 

[ustmd]

Chilly,

Good looking barn.

That is interesting about the plank flooring in the stalls and the mats in the alleyway.

We have a all concrete floor barn for our horses. The stalls are all have a slight slope to the middle with a french drain. We use 1 inch rubber mats in the stalls + bedding (woody pet-compressed pellets) to protect horses legs/hoofs--my wife breeds warm bloods.

In the alleyway, we just have the bare concrete--which works great for the farrier and for the wheelbarrow, etc.

If you have not used the mats before, my one word of advice is that you will be amazed at the amount of crap that can build up under them in no time and they are not fun to move.

 

[Mike476]

Nice job! I have the floating floor in our stable as well, although my building sits on a 8x8 PT sill (each time I clear a little more property to expand the riding arena I end up moving the building).

The first floating floor I installed I used spruce, knowing that I'd be relacing it in 3-5 years. Two years ago I replaced one of the 10x12 stall planking with popular that I milled from our property. I used three 12' 6x6 (two along the edges and one down the center) for support and I can say that after two winters the planking is as solid and as flat as the day I laid it down. Literally no wear at all and the floor provides the spring needed to ensure the horses don't suffer from leg ailments. Glad I took the advice of a local gentlemen who swore by it's use for stall floors. I guess there's a reason popular is used for planking flat beds, it sure does stand up!

Regards

 

[Chilly807]

If I die and come back as a horse I want to live in your barn. I didn't understand what a suspended plank floor was. Treated lumber is toxic for horses, how do you plan to keep the lumber on the floor from decaying? I guess just replace it when it rots.


Where does it drain to? Does it go out to daylight somewhere?

There's usually enough air that gets to it that it wears out before it rots, we just use 2 x10 spruce. Hemlock is too brittle, hard as nails but it shatters if they get jumping around. We're used to keeping two stallions side by each, but it'll be geldings or mares in this barn.

There's enough slope to the land that it comes out below the footing level about 70 feet from the barn. It's raining cats and dogs here tonight, there's a steady stream of water out of the footing drain.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

We use 1 inch rubber mats in the stalls + bedding (woody pet-compressed pellets) to protect horses legs/hoofs--my wife breeds warm bloods.

If you have not used the mats before, my one word of advice is that you will be amazed at the amount of crap that can build up under them in no time and they are not fun to move.

We have conveyor belting in the current barn we're in, it's much better than bare ground but slippery when it gets wet. The mats she found are just over an inch thick and textured on both sides. We're going to set them flush with the floor surface and add a floor drain under each one to deal with spills.

You're right, they're heavier than the devil himself, I never would have thought rubber could be so heavy.

Sean