Mowing Next project, brush hogging (I think)?

   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #1  

Learning to Farm

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Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
214
Location
20 minutes from downtown Washington, DC
Tractor
Kubota L3750
Tractor and farm aficionados, I come to you with another question. I have a new project that I am looking to start and not really sure if I am biting off more than I can chew. The back fence line is overgrown with about 6 feet of bramble and briars, there are no saplings that I can see and I'm about 99% sure that there's no trash . I have gates at both ends of fence line that I can get into it and get out of and into . I guess that's a lot of backstory to find out, can I brush hog this? I want to brush hog the outside of the fence for clarification.

The second part of this post is, do I just put the bucket down to push the brush down and go slow (like I have seen in the videos) or are there other tips/ tricks I should know?

Is there something other than brush hogging that I should do?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 

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   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #2  
If I were dealing with this, I would run bucket about 2' to 3' above ground and lift cutter slightly higher than finish cut to make sure there wasn't anything overlooked that I didn't want to hit. If lower cut desired, I would make a second pass. Once I knew the area and knew no suprises were present I would start with the desired cut height on the first pass and go as slow as needed to not bog the tractor or cutter.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #3  
This is exactly what a brush hog is supposed to do. Now...I would do it in two passes (high then low) for a couple of reasons. First because it will help you see more clearly when your mower is low as deere 5105 mentioned. Secondly because it will keep the brambles from wrapping up under your hog and you having to clean them out..ughh. Now personally I would put the bucket a bit lower...thats just a personal preference.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #4  
I would run with the loader bucket about a foot off the ground. This will act as a 'feeler' to find any stumps, rocks, etc that you don't know about before they tear out the underside of the tractor. Also, when pushing stuff over like that never back up, you will force brush and sticks up under the tractor which can also wreak havoc. Keep the bush hog about 6" off the ground, but go as slow as you can, with one hand on the 3pt hitch lever to quickly raise the bush hog if you get into something. Good luck with your project, this is the type of work bush hogs are made for, but you still have to be pretty careful.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #5  
Never underestimate what could be hidden in tall thickens like this, although looking closely to the picture it looks like this area is only about 20ft wide stretched the distance of the fence line, you can simply cut half path wide at a time, leaving half of the tractor and cutter in the clear, should provide you with some visual of what is in there as you make your passes, chances are the power lines right-of-way maintenance crews have cut this before but each time have not got as close to the fence as the time before resulting in such an overgrowth,
as already mentioned bucket low and cutter raised just a bit should get the job done:thumbsup:,
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #6  
Good advise IMO given before me.Make sure also if your out there alone you have cell phone with you.Also if when bushhoggin and if your tractor has a fel lock in place feature on it "do not" have lock on in case you run into a dip on the land and so your fel bucket does not hit ground.In high places that have not been tended to in a while I like to run my tractor in 4wd if you have that option.
At least in certain tough spots on first cut.
Boone
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Every single time I ask a question, you guys are AWESOME!!!

I know that under the lines people have dumped :( The big power-line machines went through last year and we thought it was going to be a good place to hack. I saw tires with rims, busted furniture, and other stuff that they had mowed over, I have not seen what they mow with but I guess it is really tough. So I was not planning on doing more than two tractor widths (about 12 feet) however I may just try it.

Next question, once I get the brush from the other side what is the best way to get it off the fence? I am guessing there will be 6 inches to a foot that the tractor can not get to, that is the fence line.

Thanks again!
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #8  
Two words: Roundup


Thank me later.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #9  
Let me guess the next project AFTER you finish with that bush hogging..... whitewashing the fence??? :laughing: :D That be a lotta fence!
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #10  
Let me guess the next project AFTER you finish with that bush hogging..... whitewashing the fence??? :laughing: :D That be a lotta fence!

Tell Kebo you'll let him help if he gives you that apple.

Great advice so far. I'd try to walk the area if that's possible before getting the machine in there. Even if you have to hack a bit with a machette. You get a much better understanding of the conditions from the ground than from the seat. Things to watch out for are rocks, stumps, car parts (I found an engine block) and any abrupt changes in the surface - like drainage ditches - that can cause excitement when one wheel drops in. Granny gear first pass like Verticaltrx says; half swath like deepNdirt suggests will help avoid surprises.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #11  
Two words: Roundup


Thank me later.

I agree if was left by the right of way mowers for the power lines there most likely is trash in the area. Knock it back with weed killer next year be able to see what is there.
ken
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #12  
I sure can't beat the advice given so far, I have mowed such areas and keep the FEL bucket pretty low which has saved my tractor and cutter.

I prefer a broad leaf control product like Crossbow so I don't kill the grass. After the die off, you will be able to see the fence better and probably be able to get a bit closer with the tractor. After that, it is going to be manual labor to do it right.

In the end I guess it just depends on what you want it to look like.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #13  
I second the advice to walk the area first. Considering the damage that might be avoided, you're getting "paid" a $100 an hour to take a hike. Besides, you need the exercise!:laughing:
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #14  
I don't think you need to really walk the line. As others have said keep the bucket low - I usually keep mine at a slight angle upward so that if I do hit something, it rides up. Go very slow, and always keep an eye all around you. Make sure you are prepared for getting swiped by thorns, and running into wasps. Do your first pass on the outside limit from the fence so you don't hit it. Also double check all the pins to make sure they are wired in and you don't get them pulled out. Check for any dangling hoses etc that might be caught on something. Keep in 4 wheel drive, and watch your temps. You might want to clean the screens before each pass. Where outside of DC are you? I'm up in Alexandria, but my place is in SC.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #15  
Here's one of my favorite tricks, and it doesn't cost a penny....

Wait until the dead of winter to mow.
You have less (maybe no) foliage to contend with. That's a plus.
You have less "critters"/insects to contend with. That's a plus.
Brush has less "life" in it, resulting in easier cutting. That's a plus.
Gives you an excuse to play with the tractor when there isn't much else to do. That's a plus.

After that, you can start off fresh in the spring, no brush in the way, and keep it tended.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #16  
If I were dealing with this, I would run bucket about 2' to 3' above ground...

I'd suggest keeping the lip of the bucket (lower (down to about 6-8 inchs might be better) no more then 12" off the ground and the bucket in dump about 45 degrees down.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #17  
Initial cutting like that is much easier in the spring/fall. Before or after the growth season. You'll be able to see much better.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #18  
Oh this one is easy! Set the mower low and go over it without the mower on. Go slow and with two wheel drive. If the mower hangs on something get out and see what it is. If it goes smooth then go back over it with the PTO and the bush hog runnin'. On thing wrong is that method won't find wires/cables. But as far as something "big" it works. If I have a patch of stuff I've not mown in ages or I'm unsure of I'll just set my MX 6 low and drag it over the area to check it. If it all goes ok I power it up and mow.
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #19  
Make sure you bring some light tools with ya in case your hog gets fouled up with wire or other junk . Most definitely be aware of mean critters that swarm out of the ground . Watch for tractor dippin' to the side . You may be driving into a hole that will roll ya .
 
   / Next project, brush hogging (I think)? #20  
I second TripleR on the crossbow. I use it to get the brushy stuff killed and leave the grass. To keep the grass under control there will be some point in which you will need to get off the tractor (i hate this part) and get a heavy duty whacker. I know there is a tow-behind (DR I think) Fence mower that operates on a spring mechanism when it hits the posts but unless you have alot of fence the cost would be prohibitive.
 

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