What Do I Charge for Tractor Work?

   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #41  
I've withheld my opinion (to this point) on what I think you should charge for a number of reasons, very least of which is the fact it's almost impossible to tell someone else what they should charge for work in a part of the country that's unfamiliar to the second party....You should know your "local going rates" far better than I would....

That said, here's a few thoughts.

Under normal conditions, in grass/weeds, you should be able to (easily) mow in excess of 2 acres per hour with a 5' mower. In conditions such as you describe, expect less than half that (at best) ----- I mowed 10-3/4 acres of knee-high weeds in 3 hours, 45 minutes yesterday, with a 6' mower/40hp tractor, perfectly flat, clear field, no trees, no ditches, no obstructions. Average over 3-1/2 acres per hr. 5+ mph, and minimal lost time turning.... Same tractor/mower, I mowed a 2-1/2 acre building lot I just bought last week. Rocks, a couple downed trees, steep hillside on about 1/4-acre, all sorts of rain ruts, and weeds over my head. That took 3 hours and had me on the verge of Prozac.....:O If that wasn't my own property, I'd have never agreed to mow it.

The type of mowing you're looking at is hard on equipment, harder on the OPERATOR. (X10 if you're on an open station tractor...) Personally, I wouldn't touch a job like that UNLESS I was charging a PREMIUM price, rather than a discount price. No matter how much "fun" you anticipate, no matter how much you want what will be your biggest job to date, You need to be able to walk away from the pay window at the end of the day with a decent amount of YOUR money left after expenses.

Every time you fire up the tractor, you run a risk of SOMETHING breaking, or an unforeseen expense. Fuel, wear and tear, taxes/insurance (if you are "legal"), ect, take a slice of the pie. Rear tires for a tractor like yours will be in excess of $400 each. Easy to punch holes in 'em when mowing saplings. (BTDT too many times) So you take on THAT responsibility, you need to be rewarded for the effort.

The land owner probably couldn't care any less what his property was mowed with, who does it, or what that person has to go through. His ONLY interest is getting it cut at a price that he likes. Most potential mowing customers have no clue what is involved, nor do they care. And their first thoughts on a "fair price" is usually well UNDER what the job is worth. MOST customers aren't happy unless they get a price that's probably too cheap to begin with.... BUT...The ONLY person that has to be "happy" about the amount of money to change hands when I'm done with a job is ME....

All said and done, around where I live, the "going rate" for bush hogging work that's at the extreme limits of what a conventional tractor w/5'/6' medium duty hog can accomplish is in the neighborhood of $65. The type of work you describe is WORTH more than that, but in a semi-rural area, and with all the competition now days, that's about all it pays....ANOTHER reason why I usually walk away from that sort of job.... In conditions like that, I've been known to add $15 to $20 an hour to "going rate". Long story short, I'd want $80 hr (at least) Customer not willing to pay that much? He's entirely welcome to find someone else.

There are numerous "mowing contractors" around here that work for what I'd best describe as "beer money". I DO NOT/WILL NOT try to compete with them. When I get a customer that wants the sort of prices you'd expect from "beer money mowers", I walk. Not wasting MY time trying to convert them to a more reasonable way of thinking.... Not every phone call is a job I want. I've turned down a couple that would have been among the biggest I've ever been offered. No regrets. (One, the eventual winning bidder, ended up stuck in a ravine and had to hire a 'dozer to come drag him out. He lost his behind on the job!)

You MIGHT make a few bucks on a job of this nature, but eventually, if you keep it up, you'll get the one job that makes you question why you would ever want to do this sort of thing. Remember, when you're pricing work, it's THAT job (the 1 in 1000 big loser) that you're protecting yourself from with EVERY bid you submit.

OK...Final thoughts....I get roughly 1/3rd of the bids I submit. (We stay swamped, so that's enough.) In 3 full season, in some of the worst economic times in memory, we've managed to stay very profitable and very BUSY. So I'm thinking I'm doing SOMETHING right..... IMHO, I wouldn't touch that 15 acres unless I was getting MY price, which based on description, I'd guess to be around $1200. (Were it 15 acres of grass & weeds, you're looking more towards $400 in this area) And even at that price, I'm not exactly licking my chops to get involved in that sort of mowing.

Gotta make money....If I was wanting to break even, I'd stay at home and watch Andy Griffith reruns. If I was content to make just a few bucks an hour, McDonalds offers benefits....
 
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   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #42  
WOW! Thanks for the replies fellas. I haven't been on my computer for a couple days, sorry for the delayed response...

I know I need insurance, but haven't got any business yet. Once I get enough I'll definately get the insurance. Do you think it's better to charge by the hour or by the job? I told somebody the other day that I charge by the job.

What would you charge to bush hog 10 acres of pasture that's about 2 ft. high with some trees to go around, that's about 15 miles away?

Again, Thanks for the replies!

Be very careful with "per whatever" calculations.
You just about NEED a minimum charge for just about any "service".
Consumers (of just about ANY service) will moan about "It only took him an hour".
They do NOT consider travel time, set up time, equipment maintenance/service time, overhead, etc.
It has been my opinion for quite some time that services of this type generally take 1/2 day minimum and you are LUCKY if you can fit 2 in per day, 3 per day being just about impossible without GOOD artificial light (-:

So, I suggest you figure a day rate and a 1/2 day rate, then take it from there.
Remember that a 6 hour job denies you the opportunity for a 2nd job that day.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #43  
Sorry, I can't say where the property is located. Also, this is a one time deal. I will not be maintaining the property.

The property has to be cut to see exactly what the owner has and what he needs to do.




I was inquiring about the location in terms of conditions not an address, big difference between lower Plaquemines parish and Covington for example.

So this is a one shot deal for you without repeat maintenance mowing, not much in it for you then.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #44  
I have no experience charging for this type of work but have done it on my own property. I would totally agree with both LoneCowboy and FarmswithJunk that there are many hazards and problems with what is really clearing of land. I would also point out that the OP doesn't even have a FEL to "feel" out the stumps etc.

When experienced commercial mowers like LoneCowboy and FarmswithJunk say 'stay away' it would be wise to listen.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #45  
IslandTractor,
I predict this will be a learning experience, but nothing like peeing on the electric fence for first hand experience.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work?
  • Thread Starter
#46  
I was inquiring about the location in terms of conditions not an address, big difference between lower Plaquemines parish and Covington for example.

So this is a one shot deal for you without repeat maintenance mowing, not much in it for you then.

I understand what you're saying, but we have to watch what we say on public forums, especially when there's money to be made.

Yes, it's a one shot deal but besides fuel, everything is profit.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work?
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I've withheld my opinion (to this point) on what I think you should charge for a number of reasons, very least of which is the fact it's almost impossible to tell someone else what they should charge for work in a part of the country that's unfamiliar to the second party....You should know your "local going rates" far better than I would....

That said, here's a few thoughts.

Under normal conditions, in grass/weeds, you should be able to (easily) mow in excess of 2 acres per hour with a 5' mower. In conditions such as you describe, expect less than half that (at best) ----- I mowed 10-3/4 acres of knee-high weeds in 3 hours, 45 minutes yesterday, with a 6' mower/40hp tractor, perfectly flat, clear field, no trees, no ditches, no obstructions. Average over 3-1/2 acres per hr. 5+ mph, and minimal lost time turning.... Same tractor/mower, I mowed a 2-1/2 acre building lot I just bought last week. Rocks, a couple downed trees, steep hillside on about 1/4-acre, all sorts of rain ruts, and weeds over my head. That took 3 hours and had me on the verge of Prozac.....:O If that wasn't my own property, I'd have never agreed to mow it.

The type of mowing you're looking at is hard on equipment, harder on the OPERATOR. (X10 if you're on an open station tractor...) Personally, I wouldn't touch a job like that UNLESS I was charging a PREMIUM price, rather than a discount price. No matter how much "fun" you anticipate, no matter how much you want what will be your biggest job to date, You need to be able to walk away from the pay window at the end of the day with a decent amount of YOUR money left after expenses.

Every time you fire up the tractor, you run a risk of SOMETHING breaking, or an unforeseen expense. Fuel, wear and tear, taxes/insurance (if you are "legal"), ect, take a slice of the pie. Rear tires for a tractor like yours will be in excess of $400 each. Easy to punch holes in 'em when mowing saplings. (BTDT too many times) So you take on THAT responsibility, you need to be rewarded for the effort.

The land owner probably couldn't care any less what his property was mowed with, who does it, or what that person has to go through. His ONLY interest is getting it cut at a price that he likes. Most potential mowing customers have no clue what is involved, nor do they care. And their first thoughts on a "fair price" is usually well UNDER what the job is worth. MOST customers aren't happy unless they get a price that's probably too cheap to begin with.... BUT...The ONLY person that has to be "happy" about the amount of money to change hands when I'm done with a job is ME....

All said and done, around where I live, the "going rate" for bush hogging work that's at the extreme limits of what a conventional tractor w/5'/6' medium duty hog can accomplish is in the neighborhood of $65. The type of work you describe is WORTH more than that, but in a semi-rural area, and with all the competition now days, that's about all it pays....ANOTHER reason why I usually walk away from that sort of job.... In conditions like that, I've been known to add $15 to $20 an hour to "going rate". Long story short, I'd want $80 hr (at least) Customer not willing to pay that much? He's entirely welcome to find someone else.

There are numerous "mowing contractors" around here that work for what I'd best describe as "beer money". I DO NOT/WILL NOT try to compete with them. When I get a customer that wants the sort of prices you'd expect from "beer money mowers", I walk. Not wasting MY time trying to convert them to a more reasonable way of thinking.... Not every phone call is a job I want. I've turned down a couple that would have been among the biggest I've ever been offered. No regrets. (One, the eventual winning bidder, ended up stuck in a ravine and had to hire a 'dozer to come drag him out. He lost his behind on the job!)

You MIGHT make a few bucks on a job of this nature, but eventually, if you keep it up, you'll get the one job that makes you question why you would ever want to do this sort of thing. Remember, when you're pricing work, it's THAT job (the 1 in 1000 big loser) that you're protecting yourself from with EVERY bid you submit.

OK...Final thoughts....I get roughly 1/3rd of the bids I submit. (We stay swamped, so that's enough.) In 3 full season, in some of the worst economic times in memory, we've managed to stay very profitable and very BUSY. So I'm thinking I'm doing SOMETHING right..... IMHO, I wouldn't touch that 15 acres unless I was getting MY price, which based on description, I'd guess to be around $1200. (Were it 15 acres of grass & weeds, you're looking more towards $400 in this area) And even at that price, I'm not exactly licking my chops to get involved in that sort of mowing.

Gotta make money....If I was wanting to break even, I'd stay at home and watch Andy Griffith reruns. If I was content to make just a few bucks an hour, McDonalds offers benefits....

You hit the nail on the head.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work?
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Unless something breaks, then it is all a loss...

No, not necessarily. I will be making a good amount of money, although I will not say on here... at least not until the job is done anyway.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #50  
So I've just read through this whole thread... the job should be done by now. What was the outcome, Travis??
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #52  
Didn't know where else to post this topic. Hopefully it's the appropriate forum...

I'm in South Louisiana and was wondering what I should charge for bush hogging, repairing gravel driveways, and spreading dirt? Also, right before deer season I could bush hog and disk food plots for people. What should I charge?

I have a 38 hp Massey Ferguson 2 wheel drive tractor (with no front end loader), a 5' medium duty Bush Hog, 5.5' grader box, and a 6.5' set of gang disks.

I MUST be fair to people and WILL give them the work they pay for. But it takes money to keep and maintain equipment also.

What is the "going rate" down here?

Thank You!

I would say if you have land of your own that you mow see how much you can mow in an hour and how much fuel you use. Then go from there!! I would rather bid a job if you been using your tractor alot u can figure out what you can do in an hour and what your cost will be.Towing your rig,u should know how much fuel u would use towing it back and forth. If I had to load mine and drive 15mi. to mow 15 ac. (at 2 ft tall)with my 12ft I would charge $400. An easy way I can do it is if it was an hay meadow they would charge a 2 bale minimium so that is 30 bales,multiply that by the cost per bale 28 and it would come out to 850 and I just devide by 2(half the work) $425. I would roughly gross $300,if something didnt break or had a flat. The thing is if they let it get over 2ft just say 3ft (unless its thin)add another $100,get it to were they are not calling you when its terrible and its alot of wear and tear on your equipment,if they dont call probaly a good thing let someone else tear there equipment up.
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #53  
. An easy way I can do it is if it was an hay meadow they would charge a 2 bale minimium so that is 30 bales,multiply that by the cost per bale 28 and it would come out to 850 and I just devide by 2(half the work) $425.

Do you think that bush hogging is half the work of cutting, with a moco, raking and baling?
 
   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #54  
Do you think that bush hogging is half the work of cutting, with a moco, raking and baling?

Do they bale small trees and whatever crap you can put out there or are there fields clean?
Can you run twice as fast on a hay meadow?
My baler cuts it then comes back and pulls a rake and baler combo.(Thats 2 passes)(didnt say there wasnt more cost involved for them.)Wait maybe thats why I dont charge the same thing!
 
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   / What Do I Charge for Tractor Work? #55  
Just read the entire thread and was majorly let down to see no final update! How did it go??
 

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