Backhoe Trying to put BH back on

[rimshot]

I have had this happen. To prevent the pressure problem I shut the remote valve down after and then move the two big sticks to all four positions. The next step is to block up the backhoe which I sit on four furniture dollies This seems to bleed the lines of pressure and eases reinstallment of backhoe.


Can somebody explain to me in a little more detail how the hammer is used to release the hydraulic pressure from a line? I can't imagine banging on a coupling with a hammer. I did not know how much of that those couplings can stand. Thanks in advance for any tips.

rimshot

 

[Mousefield]

I have had this happen. To prevent the pressure problem I shut the remote valve down after and then move the two big sticks to all four positions. The next step is to block up the backhoe which I sit on four furniture dollies This seems to bleed the lines of pressure and eases reinstallment of backhoe.


Can somebody explain to me in a little more detail how the hammer is used to release the hydraulic pressure from a line? I can't imagine banging on a coupling with a hammer. I did not know how much of that those couplings can stand. Thanks in advance for any tips.

rimshot

After putting a rag over the end of the hose coupler I TAP the end. I may have to do it a few times. There is what looks like a slightly raised ball in the middle of the end, all you need to do it have it go a bit down and the hydraulic fluid under pressure will squirt out, it only takes a little bit to be successful. I am not banging or whaling away at it and having the rag over the end you are not damaging it. Most of the time I don't have to do this as I do like you, move the different backhoe cylinders to relive the pressure.

 

[IslandTractor]

Agree with Mousefield's method. I carry a small tack hammer in my tractor for just that purpose. Paper towel or rag necessary both to prevent mess and to protect the nipple. I also carry a 2" 3/8 bolt which I use to insert in an uncooperative female fitting then tap on the bolt head the same way. Rag in that case is just covering the outside of the fitting so the oil doesn't squirt back at you.

 

[VictorW]

I guess I've been lucky with my CK30hst and KB2375. If they won't conect at first, I just move all the bh controls and the pressure equalizes somehow and I can connect the QDs.

 

[jsmk]

I had used the hammer and rag method the first time I had these problem and it worked pretty good.. It was a tad harder to connect then I thought it should have been but I got it on ok. Well I used the PHD again and when I went to put the BH back on no amount of hammering would work. I remembered someone mentioned channel locks, so I gave that a try. Piece of cake. It only need slight pressure on the pliers to get the hose pressure down. Then connection was easy.

It is nice to have a place to get questions answered.

 

[bindian]

I guess I've been lucky with my CK30hst and KB2375. If they won't conect at first, I just move all the bh controls and the pressure equalizes somehow and I can connect the QDs.

Ditto for me, just move all controls including the remote levers.
hugs, Brandi

 

[IXLR8]

First three years I removed the BH for the winter... no issues in the spring putting it back on. This year I took it off later in the fall and put it on later in the spring, big temp difference I suspect. I couldn't get he fittings connected no matter how much I pushed and prodded. I moved all the controlls on the BH, numerous times, still no go. I then put the rag over the connector and hit it with wooden handle end of my hammer. I figured the wooden handle would be less likely to damage the ball. I must have hit it 10-15 times, got a real good squirt the first few times... real glad I had the rag over it. Finally releved all the pressure and they went together fine. I too have managed to get rocks and junk in the brackets on the tractor making it real difficult to get the BH fully seated and the pins in. Finally wised up and I make sure they are all clean before I back up to the BH.

 

[grsthegreat]

or...wait till very very early in the morning, as the fluid will have contracted and pressures will have dropped. then try hooking them up again. I learned years ago to only leave an unattached hydraulic line in the shade.....or carry a hammer and a rag when i go to hook them up. it does get kinda messy though.

 

[mj007]

I got these pliers from an ad in 'Farmshow' - they were around 35$ with shipping. They are fast and easy and make relieving residual pressure a painless deal - they have different sizes for different size couplers. Fit in CK-20 toolbox. ...... the tool works like a pliers to grip the coupler and you release the pressure with the screw. The address they give is George Waite, Waite's Tools, PO BOX 66, Atwood, Colorado 80722 The phone is 970-522-5696 .......

 

[IslandTractor]

I got these pliers from an ad in 'Farmshow' - they were around 35$ with shipping. They are fast and easy and make relieving residual pressure a painless deal - they have different sizes for different size couplers. Fit in CK-20 toolbox. ...... the tool works like a pliers to grip the coupler and you release the pressure with the screw. The address they give is George Waite, Waite's Tools, PO BOX 66, Atwood, Colorado 80722 The phone is 970-522-5696 .......

Clever idea and I'm sure it works. A bit more expensive than a tack hammer and rag though.