Backhoe update. I'm making progress (Video included)

[Short Game]

...those engineers have already done the math and it works .

More than that, I bet they paid attention to a lot of trial and error and copied what worked out. Someone designed it, built it, and broke it, and then redesigned it and broke it a few times more. I will bet that's where the finished "math" came from. Remember, while it was engineers who wrote the tables and books, it was an engineer who wrote Murphy's Laws.

 

[peavey]

When I keep the tractor hooked up to the back hoe the rear wheels are approximately 6 to 8 inches off the ground, they never actually touch the ground until I disconnect from the tractor. When disconnected from the tractor the wheels simply act as any trailer axle, allowing a 4 pt. connection to the ground, however you have to keep the stabilizers close to the ground when operating separate from the tractor or the rear wheels will leave the ground. I have'nt actually dug with it much disconnected from the tractor, but I have moved it around the yard some when disconnected, to see how hard it would be to articulate by it self.
Positioning the stabilizers forward will be a plus, especially when not connected to a tractor or pick up truck, it would allow better digging force this way. Mine kubota hoe stabilizers are just slightly forward, however when they are in the downward position, they take all the stress from the hoe, thats they way it was designed to prevent damage to the tractor frame.

 

[peavey]

Works something like this. Disconnected from the tractor, stabilzers up the caster wheel s go up. Stabilizers down, caster wheels go down. Raise stabilizers up to where the main axle is helping support the weight of the hoe, straighten out boom against the ground and operate the jacks to lift the stabilizers and main axle off the ground (all weight on boom and sqaure tubing frame) then simply use the boom to move the frame forward, backward, side to side. I must say the it is a lot easier to just use the tractor to position the hoe where needed, but there is a definite advantage to operating separate from a tractor like tight places, and such. Keep in mind the hydraulic cylinders will exert more force than a weak frame can support. Longer is not always better. REMEMBER IT'S NOT ALWAYS THE SIZE OF THE SHIP THATS IMPORTANT. Hope I was able to answer your questions. Let me know how it works out for you.

 

[schmism]

Yep those parts are expensive. I wouldn't continue building this one. But I've already got $1,000.00 in hydraulics and steel. So I figured heck I might as well put another $1,000.00 into it.The fittings alone just to connect the hoses to the valve are $70.00

But if I hadn't already put the $1,000.00 into it. I would be just buying one of the pre made towable backhoes.
Chad

or you quickly see how finding a used $3000 factory built hoe which will out perform the towables and anything you can build at home is a no brainier.

 

[peavey]

Sure, do it the easy way. All joking aside, I would not have attempted to build this thing if I did not really enjoy welding and fabricating. I guess it is up to the preference of the individual that needs/wants one. If you enjoy building things, then go for it, you will learn more, and be able to take pride in a build well done. If you want to purchase a hoe, go for it. Although I believe I have taken a back hoe attachment and built a strong suitable frame to make it more versitile, there is no doubt that a traditional factory back hoe will accomplish more heavy work when compared to mine, but unless I plan on digging deeper than 8 feet or using it as a crane, I think my little hoe will serve my needs just fine.

 

[NormL]

peavey:

Positioning the stabilizers forward will be a plus, especially when not connected to a tractor or pick up truck, it would allow better digging force this way. Mine kubota hoe stabilizers are just slightly forward, however when they are in the downward position, they take all the stress from the hoe, thats they way it was designed to prevent damage to the tractor frame.
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That is what I see as being an important consideration as I build mine. I'm building a backhoe onto the rear of a garden tractor. I do not have an FEL on it nor will I be putting one on. Instead, I have a dozer blade from another garden tractor that I will attach and convert to hydraulic control. If I need more weight to counter the weight and forces from the backhoe, I plan to hang them on that blade. That blade will also serve as the third point when anchoring my machine while digging. I have a thread going which describes what I'm doing which you may or may not have seen. It's
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/209127-its-time-either-get-started.html.

 

[peavey]

Converting a dozer blade to hydraulic control is a great idea, I'm assuming the dozer blade will be fitted on the front of the machine. It should provide enough down pressure to lift the tractor wheels off the ground. That should do the trick for counter balance weight/force. Remember, you do not have to add enough counter weight to compensate for the digging force of the back hoe, just an opposite force of down pressure from the dozer blade when digging. Additional frame supports to keep the tractor frame from snapping into is a must. Axles weight bearing ability must be considered also.

 

[NormL]

Converting a dozer blade to hydraulic control is a great idea, I'm assuming the dozer blade will be fitted on the front of the machine. It should provide enough down pressure to lift the tractor wheels off the ground. That should do the trick for counter balance weight/force. Remember, you do not have to add enough counter weight to compensate for the digging force of the back hoe, just an opposite force of down pressure from the dozer blade when digging. Additional frame supports to keep the tractor frame from snapping into is a must. Axles weight bearing ability must be considered also.

My plan is to just get the weight off the front wheels as I set up to dig. Only add weights if necessary and just have those as hang-ons to slip over the top of the blade. I have done some reinforcing of the frame and may have to improve on that if it is needed. As for the rear axle, it appears to be of cast iron construction and I'm guessing it will be able to carry the load. That leaves the question of how far to extend the outriggers and whether to sweep them further back than yours are. At this point I still have options.

 

[chad22]

BIG MISTAKE ! You have to remake your boom and stick. Match Peavey's Kubota , those engineers have already done the math and it works . I bet you his boom and stick are made out of 1/8" thick stock and the cylinder mounts/gussets are 1/4" plate . You will spend needless time and money trying to make everything else strong enough to take the stresses of such a long boom & stick. Remember this " A 1/2" thick angle iron snapped right in half like a twig ", that should alert you to the stresses involved. There are no advantages to keeping it that long if it doesn't work and you have already proven that many times over.

Your right. It's a big mistake. I don't know what I was thinking wanting to use the current boom and stick again. I just know it'll break something again.

My boom and stick material is 1/8" thick. I decided that I will go ahead and buy the plans when I get the money and get the material and cylinders listed in them. This way I know I'll get the thing done right.

I'll just use my current cylinders for something else.

Chad

 

[peavey]

The closer you can position the stabilizers to the back hoe the better for support of the back hoe when operating it, but the more weight the tractor will have to support when not using the back hoe. A few inches either way will make a big difference. Think of a wooden ruler balanced in the middle of something at the 6" mark. add 4oz. of weight to the 3" mark and it will take less than 4 oz of weight on the 12" mark to counter balance. The axle will have to support the weight of the hoe, the farther it extends from the frame of the tractor the more stress will be placed on it. Keep all the weight as close to the tractor as possible.