Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?

   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?
  • Thread Starter
#41  
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #42  
That's kinda like what I was talking about, except I use the bucket.
49376d1136718576-moving-logs-803057-skidding-tongs.jpg
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #43  
I cut the trees up were ever im at and then bring them home to my splitting area. I have used the fel with forks to cut logs up on and yes the tractor was turned off. When I bought my house I got lucky and there was a 20x40 concrete pad in the pasture and that is where I split all my wood at. Its easy to clean up too. Bull
 
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   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #44  
I can't see the need for a stick and markers to gauge my cuts. :confused:
Once you have your target length... see where it "sits" on your saw with the saw parallel to the log. Gas cap, a letter on the body just a marker of some kind on the saw. Next cut, put your saw at the same point and eyeball where the tip is. Then cut there. I dip the tip til it marks the log sometimes but usually there is an obvious marker on the log already and you just have to pivot the saw.

Yes, a lot of people do that. I don't. I get enough work just moving the saw from cut to cut without rotating it 90 degrees twice in addition.

Harry K
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #45  
Thanks.

I just use my bar now to measure. The mingo marker in my post looks good. Anybody use it?

Cutting Firewood-Review of Mingo Marker for Measuring. - YouTube

I've looked at it a couple times. Doesn't look real practical to me. One has to make too many adjustments while working up a tree. Come to crotch, adjust where the cut is needed, Limb? Same thing, Log has a crook? Another adjustment.

Now if all logs were perfectly straight with no limbs...

Harry K
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #46  
I've looked at it a couple times. Doesn't look real practical to me. One has to make too many adjustments while working up a tree. Come to crotch, adjust where the cut is needed, Limb? Same thing, Log has a crook? Another adjustment.


Harry K

Thats why I dont use one.

We shoot for 18-20" when cutting. And I can usually be within an inch of 18 with just my eyeballs.

But like you said, there are too many times where an adjstment is required. Like the crotch peices, limbs, etc.

And when you get to the end, and are left with a 30" peice, rather than follow a "marker" that was set at 18" and have one peice @ 18 and one at 12, I would rather have 2 @ 15".

Or if the peice were 21", rather than cut 3" off and waste that little cookie, I will just leave it 21".

The only time it is really hard to judge length is with big wood. Like 30" plus stuff. But I usually just lay my saw up on top and use the 24" bar as a reference.:thumbsup:
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I actually cut a variety lengths.

Hardwoods and kindling (birch & poplar) for my smoker I cut short.

For firewood I just eyeball it...
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #48  
Measuring stick? I lay my forearm on the log - from my elbow to the tips of my fingers is right about 18 inches. I usually lay my forearm, lift back up and mark real quick with the saw. Can mark out all my cuts on the main trunk of a tree in 2 minutes that way.

My family always cuts them where they fall. We start with the downed ones, then start dropping the dead ones if we need more wood.

Start at the top of the tree, take the brush and crown off, then start working on the limbs. Work on the loose ones first, and be careful when limbing the ones under pressure....they are usually holding the main trunk off the ground. Its an art to take them out in the right sequence so that you don't bind your saw, and roll the trunk wrong (onto yourself).

When you get some good logs cut off the branches, use these to help buck up the main trunk off the ground. As you cut more logs off the main trunk and forks the tree will drop onto these logs that you lay under the main trunk, making it alot easier to continue cutting without having to move the tree or worry about touching the ground with your saw.

If for some reason you wind up with the trunk on the ground, (it just happens sometimes) make sure you level out the saw as you approach the bottom of the log (and the ground). It takes awhile to get the feeling of it, but I can often cut a log so close to all the way without actually passing through, that I can just give the log a swift kick and it pops the rest of the way off. When the final trunk gets to less than 6-8ft (oak, 35-40" diameter), I can often roll it over with a good shove, and finish the rest of my cut through's with a quick zip.

We have a home made wooden carry-all with short sides for the tractor. Its good for bringing in the saws and gas and hauling out the firewood. I can usually put 3 40"x18" cut logs on it at a time and drive them out to our splitting spot. Its amazing where a 2wd tractor will go with AG tires and working steer brakes. I can get to spots that ATV's have trouble getting, just stay in the low gears and don't freak when the front wheels come off the ground. The carry-all acts like a wheelie bar, lower it if the front end gets too high, and steer with the brakes.

If we get 4 of us working at the same time, it gets super efficient. Dad and I with saws get a tree down and started, then I get on the tractor and start hauling cut logs over to the splitting area at the edge of the woods, and 2 people start on the cut logs with the hydraulic splitter. Dad keeps the the cut wood going, I use the tractor to keep the splitter fed. We can average about a cord an hour this way. That's cut, hauled, split and stacked.

My entire extended family burns wood for heat. 4 households go through about 12 cords a winter or so. But if at least 4 of us get together to work on the wood piles, we can get it all done in about 3-4 afternoons throughout the fall and winter. Its one of my favorite past-times when the weather gets cold...always reminds me of doing the same with grandpa when he was alive. = )
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs? #49  
I actually cut a variety lengths.

Hardwoods and kindling (birch & poplar) for my smoker I cut short.

For firewood I just eyeball it...

After 30 plus years at it, I _still_ can't eyeball. I shoot for 16". Cut small diameter they come out long, Big diameter they come out short. I use mostly a 16" length white 1/4" PVC pipe (stuff used for riser pipes in plumbing). Easy to spot where it is after forgetting where I dropped it last :).

I also use the cut-off rod mounted to a bar nut. Fast; no tossign saw around. Gets in the way a bit when limbing but it only takes a few seconds to remove or remount.
"Quick stix" available at Bailey's (baileysonline.com). The plastic rods that come with them are junk, easily broken (I have broken several just setting the saw down). Replace them with 5/16" rod - it threads just fine with an 8mm die.

Harry K
 
   / Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?
  • Thread Starter
#50  
My entire extended family burns wood for heat. 4 households go through about 12 cords a winter or so. But if at least 4 of us get together to work on the wood piles, we can get it all done in about 3-4 afternoons throughout the fall and winter. Its one of my favorite past-times when the weather gets cold...always reminds me of doing the same with grandpa when he was alive. = )

FarmerG,

That is a great story! :thumbsup:

My vision is I'm the grandfather (someday) in that picture...

Be well,

David
 

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