Adding Guages To your Yanmar

[Car Doc]

I used the USP parts on my gage instal also no problems at all tape them up and forget about it.

 

[kenmac]

Seeing as the theme of this thread is adding gauges, I figured I would share my recent gauge additions on my 1981 YM336D

I bought the sunpro triple gauge set and a cheapie driving lights kit from walmart.

Here is the final wiring diagram:

The main +12v going to the key switch is plenty fat enough to handle all of the lights. It is 6 or 8 gauge wire. The on position connection is labelled BR2, if I recall correctly. No idea what BR2 stands for, but that was it.

I used a divider block in order to put eye connecters on each wire individually instead of tying them all together in a massive glob of twists and tape. The divider block just floats inside the dash.

At the same time as the gauges, I added new headlights, so the wiring diagram shows how I did that, as well.

As for the oil pressure and temp gauges..

The Sunpro kit comes in SAE only, but they make an adapter kit for metric (which our tractors are). I opted against the metric adapters and simply used a tap and die set to hone the threads of the temp sender to SAE threads. It was simple to do and I don't plan to return to idiot lights.. ever, so going back to metric isn't needed.

At the same time I ordered the sunpro gauges, I also ordered 10 feet of 1/8" OD (outside diameter) copper tubing. The sunpro kit is nice but it includes cheesy plastic tubing for the oil pressure line, which increases the chance of getting cut and spraying you with hot oil (as happened to a member here). The copper tubing is a pain to run, but is doable and just takes some patience.

I didn't even need to re-tap the oil pressure hole, as the threads are so close the SAE fitting screwed in without issue. I used teflon tape on both fittings as a precaution.

As a side note about the copper tubing.. you don't need a bender, just use your fingers as it is easy to bend. Don't use pliers as you run the risk of kinking it which renders it useless.

And the finished product, ready to warn me of impending doom at a moment's notice.

Nice dash ! Can I order 1

 

[Domush]

Someone else wants a headlight mount, haha!

If the math worked out, I'd likely be up for it. Shipping alone would be costly, as I'd need the OEM dash to work from, unless yours is the exact dash as mine.

If you know someone with a tilting band saw, that is how I cut it out.

- Plane a board big enough for the dash
- Trace the outline of the old dash onto the board
- Use the OEM dash to adjust the angle of the band saw (my dash had 2 angles)
- Sand the edges so they are rounded (prevent chipping)
- Use a hole saw and a drill press to make the holes
- Drill a pilot hole and use a saber saw for the tach hole (didn't have a hole saw that big)
- Sand the inside of the holes with a spindle sander (pref. an oscillating one)
- Stain and add 4 coats of poly, sanding with 220 grit after every coat but the last

The poly work was the most time consuming. Dry times and all..

 

[Smoody]

Hey Domush, could you snap a pic of your divider block for your electrical wiring? where did you mount it? (i see now it just floats under the dash), what type block did you use, does it have fuses on it?

Also are all of you guys using teflon tap on the adapters? the instruction that came with the sunpro gauges say not to use any thing on them as it will cause mis-readings?

 

[Car Doc]

Also are all of you guys using teflon tap on the adapters? the instruction that came with the sunpro gauges say not to use any thing on them as it will cause mis-readings?

Yes tape and I have never had any issues with electric gages they are sealed from the factory somehow on every make of vehicle I ever worked on.

IMO its not an issue but follow directions and see if you get away with out leaks thats going to be the bigger problem I think anyway. :thumbsup:

 

[Neat 1500]

i dont use tape on electric senders as it can give you a bad earth and the gauge will not operate correctly. i use liquid gasket goo or form a gasket ( hard setting as soft one leaks under pressure) and never had a problem.

 

[Smoody]

Well I was going to install the gauges tomorrow but I can't find a 1 5/8 hole saw anywhere, figures. Guess I'll have to use 1 1/2 and file it out some.

In regards to the oil gauge. Is the T fiting I see people use a metric, is it easily obtainable at a auto parts store? I would like to keep the oil light functional, I use that to know when to release the decompression lever when starting.

 

[California]

In regards to the oil gauge. Is the T fitting I see people use a metric, is it easily obtainable at a auto parts store? I would like to keep the oil light functional, I use that to know when to release the decompression lever when starting.

The fittings for the sender and block in my photo are US 1/8" pipe thread. All brass. Everything went together fine.

Comment on layout: I wouldn't leave this configuration permanently. It sticks out too far. I would use a 'street elbow' (M>F threads) or M>M elbow coming out of the block and point its outlet upward. Then run pipe upward a short distance, then a T with its openings pointing to the front and back. If your gauge uses copper tubing, connect it to the rearward-facing part of the T so the tubing is best protected from snagging on brush. I once ripped the wire off my oil sender (see the splice in the photo), and ripping copper tubing off would have been worse.

 

[Smoody]

Thanks California, lastly is it necessary to drain the oil out before removing the sender from the block? Curious I'f the settled level of oil is above the sender. Thanks

 

[California]

is it necessary to drain the oil

No. You might get a tablespoon of oil into a rag, nothing major.