Adding Guages To your Yanmar

/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #61  
Seeing as the theme of this thread is adding gauges, I figured I would share my recent gauge additions on my 1981 YM336D

2011-09-12%25252018.39.46.jpg


I bought the sunpro triple gauge set and a cheapie driving lights kit from walmart.

Here is the final wiring diagram:
Gauge%252520and%252520lighting%252520wiring%252520diagram.jpg


The main +12v going to the key switch is plenty fat enough to handle all of the lights. It is 6 or 8 gauge wire. The on position connection is labelled BR2, if I recall correctly. No idea what BR2 stands for, but that was it.

I used a divider block in order to put eye connecters on each wire individually instead of tying them all together in a massive glob of twists and tape. The divider block just floats inside the dash.

At the same time as the gauges, I added new headlights, so the wiring diagram shows how I did that, as well.
2011-09-13%25252014.20.21.jpg


As for the oil pressure and temp gauges..
2011-09-13%25252014.20.47.jpg

The Sunpro kit comes in SAE only, but they make an adapter kit for metric (which our tractors are). I opted against the metric adapters and simply used a tap and die set to hone the threads of the temp sender to SAE threads. It was simple to do and I don't plan to return to idiot lights.. ever, so going back to metric isn't needed.

2011-09-13%25252014.21.01.jpg

At the same time I ordered the sunpro gauges, I also ordered 10 feet of 1/8" OD (outside diameter) copper tubing. The sunpro kit is nice but it includes cheesy plastic tubing for the oil pressure line, which increases the chance of getting cut and spraying you with hot oil (as happened to a member here). The copper tubing is a pain to run, but is doable and just takes some patience.

I didn't even need to re-tap the oil pressure hole, as the threads are so close the SAE fitting screwed in without issue. I used teflon tape on both fittings as a precaution.

As a side note about the copper tubing.. you don't need a bender, just use your fingers as it is easy to bend. Don't use pliers as you run the risk of kinking it which renders it useless.

2011-09-13%25252014.21.43.jpg

And the finished product, ready to warn me of impending doom at a moment's notice.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #62  
Domush, your gauge panel is just beautiful. You wrote a terrific how-to guide as well. Thanks for posting.

Jay Roberts, you might have some better luck getting specific guidance on those who have dealt with YM1500 tractors running hot if you post a new thread on the topic, so people can see you're looking for that information.
 
Last edited:
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #63  
the 1500 definately doesnt have a water pump or thermostat, it cools with the thermosyphon system. it relies on hot water rising and the cooler water returning to the block thus creating circulation, all be it slow but it is a proven working system. i would only recommend a 25/75 mix of coolant maximum. they dont move the water too well when the coolant ratio is too high. either you have a blockage in the radiator or block itself if it overheats quickly. try a cooling system pressure test also because you never know;)
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #64  
Neat 1500! What did you have to take off to get enough room behind the dash to do all of wiring and hooking up the copper tubing to the oil gauge? Thanks, Speedy2
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #65  
Already checked the items you suggested. By the way I make it a habit to clean the radiator screen and radiator after each use. I loaned my tractor to my son-in-law and I believe he did something accidental to my machine. That is when I started having all this trouble with overheating. I'll let you know how it all works out. I'm going to remove the radiator again and test it for leaks with 5 PSI pressure. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is OK. I have more investigation planned this weekend.

Thanks
Jay

I bet he got the radiator pugged up with grass and seed fluff. Over heated it and blew the head gasket. Which is why it heats up fast now just riding around.

And to Domush's question it uses the heating convection movement of water to move from hot to cooler. Its majic in other words? Im sure someone else has said this though at this point.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #66  
I bet he got the radiator pugged up with grass and seed fluff. Over heated it and blew the head gasket. Which is why it heats up fast now just riding around.

And to Domush's question it uses the heating convection movement of water to move from hot to cooler. Its majic in other words? Im sure someone else has said this though at this point.

I had run mine slightly hot at one time back in beginning of summer while Bushhoging tall field grass, when I shut it down the first thing I looked at was the radiator screen, Yup! clogged up badly, I was amazed at how quickly the screen had clogged, Only about 2 hours into cutting, but when you think about it you kick up all the fluff and then drive right back into it and the fan sucks it onto the screen, Now I stop every hour to clean it off when bushhoging field grass,
personally I think these type of cooling systems are great,
I run my tractor 9 hours the other day with only 2 -30 minute breaks... I may have become hot but my little 1700 kept on perking:thumbsup:
OH! BTW some nice improvising on Guage panels;)
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #67  
...
My temp gauge appears to be working ok because the temp is showing that it is overheating and is exceeding 200+ degrees F...

There is apparently some controversy here. If you didn't have the temperature gauge, you would not consider your machine overheating--the OEM temperature switch turns on the temperature warning light at 238 degrees F. Yanmar's engineers seem to believe the engine will run ok up to that point. I don't worry about mine unless the gauge indicates above about 225 or 230.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #68  
Can someone post the size metric adapter needed for the temp gauge for the sunpro gauges, is it the m14? I ordered the metric kit years ago for a John Deere and only used one adapter from the kit, I kept the rest but they are not labeled so I Dont know the sizes, also does oil gauge need the same size adapter as temp? Hoping I can use what I have. Thanks
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #69  
From my notes the temp gauge adapter is 16mm x 1.5mm for my 1500. The oil pressure adapter was different. I think it was part of an adapter kit, so I did not note the size.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #70  
YM2000, so I assume YM2210, used 1/8" British Standard Pipe Thread for the oil pressure sender. Here's an overly-longwinded post I put up when I replaced my oil pressure sender. More than you ever wanted to know about oil pressure senders; information gathered as I researched what I needed.

BSP isn't as odd as it sounds. Apparently it was universal for Japanese automobiles - at least it was 30 years ago. So Autozone had several senders to choose from.

US 1/8 pipe thread is nearly identical. Half of my various US fittings would thread right in, half didn't have enough taper to catch the first thread. Later I read that BS 1/8 pipe has one more thread per inch than USP but that wasn't apparent in my experiments. I didn't have any problem getting a seal with the ones that threaded in.

In summary - the oil pressure adapter from Sunpro to generic Japanese car should be the right one. It might even be labeled Sunpro>BSP.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #71  
I used the USP parts on my gage instal also no problems at all tape them up and forget about it.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #72  
Seeing as the theme of this thread is adding gauges, I figured I would share my recent gauge additions on my 1981 YM336D

2011-09-12%25252018.39.46.jpg


I bought the sunpro triple gauge set and a cheapie driving lights kit from walmart.

Here is the final wiring diagram:
Gauge%252520and%252520lighting%252520wiring%252520diagram.jpg


The main +12v going to the key switch is plenty fat enough to handle all of the lights. It is 6 or 8 gauge wire. The on position connection is labelled BR2, if I recall correctly. No idea what BR2 stands for, but that was it.

I used a divider block in order to put eye connecters on each wire individually instead of tying them all together in a massive glob of twists and tape. The divider block just floats inside the dash.

At the same time as the gauges, I added new headlights, so the wiring diagram shows how I did that, as well.
2011-09-13%25252014.20.21.jpg


As for the oil pressure and temp gauges..
2011-09-13%25252014.20.47.jpg

The Sunpro kit comes in SAE only, but they make an adapter kit for metric (which our tractors are). I opted against the metric adapters and simply used a tap and die set to hone the threads of the temp sender to SAE threads. It was simple to do and I don't plan to return to idiot lights.. ever, so going back to metric isn't needed.

2011-09-13%25252014.21.01.jpg

At the same time I ordered the sunpro gauges, I also ordered 10 feet of 1/8" OD (outside diameter) copper tubing. The sunpro kit is nice but it includes cheesy plastic tubing for the oil pressure line, which increases the chance of getting cut and spraying you with hot oil (as happened to a member here). The copper tubing is a pain to run, but is doable and just takes some patience.

I didn't even need to re-tap the oil pressure hole, as the threads are so close the SAE fitting screwed in without issue. I used teflon tape on both fittings as a precaution.

As a side note about the copper tubing.. you don't need a bender, just use your fingers as it is easy to bend. Don't use pliers as you run the risk of kinking it which renders it useless.

2011-09-13%25252014.21.43.jpg

And the finished product, ready to warn me of impending doom at a moment's notice.



Nice dash ! Can I order 1:D
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #73  
Someone else wants a headlight mount, haha!

If the math worked out, I'd likely be up for it. Shipping alone would be costly, as I'd need the OEM dash to work from, unless yours is the exact dash as mine.

If you know someone with a tilting band saw, that is how I cut it out.

- Plane a board big enough for the dash
- Trace the outline of the old dash onto the board
- Use the OEM dash to adjust the angle of the band saw (my dash had 2 angles)
- Sand the edges so they are rounded (prevent chipping)
- Use a hole saw and a drill press to make the holes
- Drill a pilot hole and use a saber saw for the tach hole (didn't have a hole saw that big)
- Sand the inside of the holes with a spindle sander (pref. an oscillating one)
- Stain and add 4 coats of poly, sanding with 220 grit after every coat but the last

The poly work was the most time consuming. Dry times and all..
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #74  
Hey Domush, could you snap a pic of your divider block for your electrical wiring? where did you mount it? (i see now it just floats under the dash), what type block did you use, does it have fuses on it?

Also are all of you guys using teflon tap on the adapters? the instruction that came with the sunpro gauges say not to use any thing on them as it will cause mis-readings?
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #75  
Also are all of you guys using teflon tap on the adapters? the instruction that came with the sunpro gauges say not to use any thing on them as it will cause mis-readings?

Yes tape and I have never had any issues with electric gages they are sealed from the factory somehow on every make of vehicle I ever worked on.

IMO its not an issue but follow directions and see if you get away with out leaks thats going to be the bigger problem I think anyway. :thumbsup:
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #76  
i dont use tape on electric senders as it can give you a bad earth and the gauge will not operate correctly. i use liquid gasket goo or form a gasket ( hard setting as soft one leaks under pressure) and never had a problem.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #77  
Well I was going to install the gauges tomorrow but I can't find a 1 5/8 hole saw anywhere, figures. Guess I'll have to use 1 1/2 and file it out some.

In regards to the oil gauge. Is the T fiting I see people use a metric, is it easily obtainable at a auto parts store? I would like to keep the oil light functional, I use that to know when to release the decompression lever when starting.
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #78  
In regards to the oil gauge. Is the T fitting I see people use a metric, is it easily obtainable at a auto parts store? I would like to keep the oil light functional, I use that to know when to release the decompression lever when starting.
The fittings for the sender and block in my photo are US 1/8" pipe thread. All brass. Everything went together fine.

Comment on layout: I wouldn't leave this configuration permanently. It sticks out too far. I would use a 'street elbow' (M>F threads) or M>M elbow coming out of the block and point its outlet upward. Then run pipe upward a short distance, then a T with its openings pointing to the front and back. If your gauge uses copper tubing, connect it to the rearward-facing part of the T so the tubing is best protected from snagging on brush. I once ripped the wire off my oil sender (see the splice in the photo), and ripping copper tubing off would have been worse.

144606d1257399170-low-oil-pressure-no-bad-p1550937roilgauge.jpg
 
/ Adding Guages To your Yanmar #79  
Thanks California, lastly is it necessary to drain the oil out before removing the sender from the block? Curious I'f the settled level of oil is above the sender. Thanks
 

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