Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade

   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #2  
How much snow are you talking about? and what type of tires, R1 or R4... Chains or no chains, that's the questions... but roughly 7' is not bad.
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I will be cleaning my driveway, about 200'x10' and a large parking lot about 300'x200'.

Tires are R4, unfilled. No chains, or any extra weight except for front loader.

I am in NW Indiana, so we are talking very healthy snow fall, including tons of lake effect from Lake Michigan.

Is that blade from Tractor Supply any good, its suspiciously cheap, but has good reviews.
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #4  
I use a six foot blade on my L3400... a seven footer would work better for winging it back off the driveway.

Up to about 12 inches of snow, the blade works fine, then it either plugs up or spills over. Mine is hydraulic angle, which saves a lot of time and effort getting on and off to change angles.

The 6 footer is enough to push the tractor sideways when angled and full of heavy snow. The 7 will be worse, I think. I use the bucket to punch a hole through deep stuff, then the blade to finish the job.

I think you're going to want filled tires and chains. I have filled R1's and Norse ice chains and it still pushes sideways. I usually wait until the first couple of snows to put the chains on, they make a huge difference.

Sean
 

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   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #5  
I would recommend going to a heavier blade than the TSC basic (light weight) model. I had them order a King Kutter Professional (light to medium duty - 340 lbs vs 290) 7' blade for my L3240. A rear blade pushing wet snow or snow that has been "worked" needs strength, both in blade stiffness and in the mounting frame so that neither bends. Also, if plowing with the blade angled, you will need to keep a respectable ground speed to clear the moldboard of snow. If using the blade unangled to move a pile from point A to point B you need strength when you deposit that pile on the pile that you last deposited, pushing the whole mess back so you have room for the next pile. Plus, you never know what you'll find out there ...

-Jim
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #6  
IMO, either a 6' or 7' is about perfect for our 2800/3200/3400/3700/3800 tractors.

And the particular blade you are looking at will be just fine for snow. IF moldboard height is a concern, I dont think you are going to get any better (taller) unless you go to an actual snow plow. These blades are meant for dirt.

But that said, If you forsee any dirt work with that blade in your future, I would suggest a heavier blade. Like I said, that one would be fine for snow, but moving/cutting/scraping dirt is a different animal. I had a 6' and a 7' light duty blade of similar construction to that one, and you could tell they wouldnt last. I currently have a beast of a 7'er. it is a It is a KK HD and they weigh 700lbs and retail for $1250:confused2: But I got it used (but good shape) for $380. If you look around used on c-list, you can probabally get a used HD blade for the price of that one.

And the best part for me is that it is heavy enough to be a suitable ballast when doing FEL work. Because scraping dirt and using the FEL go hand-in-hand. And those 250lb blades just arent heavy enough to maximize FEL usage. And in hard clay, they dont bite well either.

But all this is IF you plan on using it for dirt. IF snow is your only task for it, the TSC blade should hold up just fine.
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #7  
What size would be the largest recommended rear blade for this tractor. I am eyeballing a 7' blade @ Tractor Supply for $369.

CountyLine Rear Blade, 7 ft. - 2130047 | Tractor Supply Company

Congratulations on the L3700, did you buy new or used? Did you end up with a cab? What happened to the DK40 cab you had mentioned?

As far as the rear blade goes, it's going to be a challenge for you. I clear my 100' X 26' driveway + 100' X 12' round about as well as my 100' X 65' rink. I live in Ottawa and we get a lot of snow, but there's no lake effect around here. I'd say your driveway will be a piece of cake, it's the 200' X 300' parking lot that's going to give you a headache. You're going to have to make relief cuts before trying to plow with a rear blade. Once you get too much snow pushed to the side, the tractor really starts to get pulled around. Here's a video that shows a Kubota trying to plow a small parking lot, you'll see what I mean. How To Series - Snow Removal - Tractor Rear Scrape Blade - YouTube

With my JD 955 last winter (almost 1900 lbs + JDP Cab + loader, R4 tires not loaded and 6ft rear blade) I was able to do a pretty good job on the driveway, only having issues by the edge of the driveway (pushing snow 26ft always to the same side) in heavy snow. On the rink, I cut it in two and ended up having to cut relief lines using the loader in heavy snow. There was no way the rear blade could handle that much snow. I'm expecting my Kioti CK 30 (3042lbs + 800lbs loaded tires + loader) to be able to handle the driveway with ease and be much better on the rink. According to TractorData.com, your L3700SU is 2568lbs + Loader. That make you a little lighter than my JD 955 cab, which is why I'm thinking a 300' X 200' parking lot is too much for a rear blade.

The fasted option would be a front snow box. That's what most of the guys use here in Ottawa for parking lots, although it's usually with a front end loader or backhoe. I still think the best option for moving lots of snow, especially for a lighter, higher powered CUT, is with a snow blower.

When my wife finally let's me out of the dog house, I'm going to get an inversed 68" snow blower. You keep the FEL, drive forward and can get right up to the house or garage. If money just doesn't allow anything else, I'd get the 7 ft blade. You'll be using your FEL quite a bit anyway so I wouldn't worry about a little extra drag on the tractor.
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #8  
With my JD 955 last winter (almost 1900 lbs + JDP Cab + loader, R4 tires not loaded and 6ft rear blade) I was able to do a pretty good job on the driveway, ........................................................................ your L3700SU is 2568lbs + Loader. That make you a little lighter than my JD 955 cab, which is why I'm thinking a 300' X 200' parking lot is too much for a rear blade.

You think the JD cab weighed more than the 600lb difference:confused:

The 3700 will handle a 7' blade in snow pretty good. I am able to drive in snow that is deeper than the front axle (anxle is pushing snow) and still be effective.

Tire choice also makes a HUGE differnece. R4's without chains is about the WORST possible combo.

The way I see it, get a 7' blade and you always have the option to take a smaller bite. But a 6' blade will NEVER give you the option to take the larger bite.:thumbsup:

And technique makes a huge difference. Dont expect to get everything down pat on your first plowing. It takes time and experience to figure out what is most effective for you/your equipment.
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #9  
You think the JD cab weighed more than the 600lb difference:confused:
Actually, the 955 is 1990lbs according to TractorData.com, I meant to write almost 2000lbs. But either way, yes, I believe the cab weighs more than 600lbs, although I don't know for sure. If I'm right or wrong, the 955 with cab and the L3700 without are very close in weight.
 
   / Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade #10  
If I'm right or wrong, the 955 with cab and the L3700 without are very close in weight.

I can agree with that.

But like I said, I'd still go for the 7 with the minimal cost difference.

It will be faster on the smaller snows, and still just as fast on the bigger snows because you can always take a smaller than 7' bite. But you can NEVER take more than a 6' pass with the 6' blade:thumbsup:
 

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