Ended up getting a L3700SU, now need a snow blade

[stoyan79]

My dealer quoted me $1,500, which is ridiculously high. I'd pay $300-$400 in a heartbeat if I could get that.

This is what I have been eyeballing, however I am scared to start taking apart a new tractor after one week since purchase.

Valve Kits

Neither do I. You should ask you dealer what a set would cost. I believe it's $300 - $400. Regardless of if you need them for snow removal, they're handy for all sorts of stuff.

 

[kiotiken]

Just called my dealer and asked about adding a second set of remotes. The kit to go from one to 2 sets is approx. $400 so he said about $550 with labour. I got one set standard with the tractor, so I don't know if the first set would cost more for some reason.
I agree, $1500 seems VERY high.

 

[Chilly807]

In your situation, since you already have the plow, you could do this:

1) Remove the single acting cylinders from the plow.

2) Fit a fairly large diameter (3" should work) double acting cylinder to one side of the plow. Run hoses from the cylinder to the loader dump cylinder location on one side.

3) Remove both dump cylinders, and install a steel brace in place of both of them once you have the right angle for the plow with the loader fully lowered.

4) Install a set of quick connects to the plow hoses and put the mating ends on the loader dump cylinder hoses on the side you have the double acting cylinder mounted. You're going to install a second set of mating QC's on the existing loader cylinder for easier changes in the spring/fall without overworking the fittings.Cap the hoses on the other side (or add unconnected QC's if you want to, it'll accomplish the same thing ), since there's no cylinder there all the fluid that would normally go to that cylinder will now be routed to the new one. It's a parallel circuit, one set of hoses from the loader valve is teed into two sets, one for each dump cylinder.

5) You MAY want to consider a crossover relief valve between the two plow hoses, it will dump excess pressure from one side of the cylinder to the other if you hit something solid and it overpressurizes the system after the valve. The plow will force the cylinder one way, or try to, and turn it into a pump. If you're careful, you may not need it, a lot depends on the plow and cylinder geometry and size.

So now, the dump function of the joystick will give you power angle, and the raise-lower function will still work normally.

This will give you front plow ability, but it won't be quick and easy to switch between the bucket and the plow.

If you find the plow is too much for the tractor, you can always shorten it a bit at a time.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

My dealer quoted me $1,500, which is ridiculously high. I'd pay $300-$400 in a heartbeat if I could get that.

This is what I have been eyeballing, however I am scared to start taking apart a new tractor after one week since purchase.

Valve Kits

When I got the quote for my L3400, it was about $1500 for a single remote. Welcome to the "economy" L series, for which Kubota doesn't make a "kit" to add remotes. At the time, it may be the same now too, the dealer had to design the addition themselves, then source, buy, and fabricate the whole thing from scratch. Time costs money, which is why I built my own.

Sean

 

[stoyan79]

Sean, do I have to do that?

3) Remove both dump cylinders, and install a steel brace in place of both of them once you have the right angle for the plow with the loader fully lowered.


I was hoping the bucket tilt cylinders will hold the pressure once disconnected?

In your situation, since you already have the plow, you could do this:

1) Remove the single acting cylinders from the plow.

2) Fit a fairly large diameter (3" should work) double acting cylinder to one side of the plow. Run hoses from the cylinder to the loader dump cylinder location on one side.

3) Remove both dump cylinders, and install a steel brace in place of both of them once you have the right angle for the plow with the loader fully lowered.

4) Install a set of quick connects to the plow hoses and put the mating ends on the loader dump cylinder hoses on the side you have the double acting cylinder mounted. You're going to install a second set of mating QC's on the existing loader cylinder for easier changes in the spring/fall without overworking the fittings.Cap the hoses on the other side (or add unconnected QC's if you want to, it'll accomplish the same thing ), since there's no cylinder there all the fluid that would normally go to that cylinder will now be routed to the new one. It's a parallel circuit, one set of hoses from the loader valve is teed into two sets, one for each dump cylinder.

5) You MAY want to consider a crossover relief valve between the two plow hoses, it will dump excess pressure from one side of the cylinder to the other if you hit something solid and it overpressurizes the system after the valve. The plow will force the cylinder one way, or try to, and turn it into a pump. If you're careful, you may not need it, a lot depends on the plow and cylinder geometry and size.

So now, the dump function of the joystick will give you power angle, and the raise-lower function will still work normally.

This will give you front plow ability, but it won't be quick and easy to switch between the bucket and the plow.

If you find the plow is too much for the tractor, you can always shorten it a bit at a time.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

Sean, do I have to do that?

3) Remove both dump cylinders, and install a steel brace in place of both of them once you have the right angle for the plow with the loader fully lowered.


I was hoping the bucket tilt cylinders will hold the pressure once disconnected?

In theory, you should be able to cap both cylinders and they shouldn't move at all. That's assuming there's zero leakage across the piston seals.

Worst case would be one leaking slowly and the other one not leaking at all, it would twist the bucket mount and possibly break something. A couple pieces of bar stock aren't expensive, then you weld a piece of pipe on each end for the pins to go through.

In my personal opinion, you're better off to bite the bullet and add a couple of rear remotes, the odds are you'll want them for something down the road anyway. When you plumb the work port hoses to the valve, install a T at the valve. One leg will carry the hoses to the rear quick connects, the other leg will have short hoses going forward to the loader frame mounts and a second set of quick connects for either a plow setup, hydraulic post hole digger, etc. You'll likely only ever use one set at a time, so two QCs on one valve will give you more flexibility.

Your tractor is the same as mine hydraulically, it should cost you $600 or less to add a single set of remotes the same way I did. I'd recommend using a stackable valve though, that way it's easy to expand should you want another valve for top and tilt, for example.

It's going to be expensive, nothing much involving machinery is cheap it seems.

Sean

 

[donn12]

For the money the TSC rear blade and some chains would be my first choice. I have read really bad things about R4s in snow so I would get chains no matter what. Its on a smaller tractor (and Im not in Canada) but my county line blade is higher quality and heavier duty than I thought it would be especially for the money.

 

[stoyan79]

When I was in the market for a tractor, I was told by several guys that R4 is the way to go. Oh well....

For the money the TSC rear blade and some chains would be my first choice. I have read really bad things about R4s in snow so I would get chains no matter what,

 

[donn12]

I read that R4s fill up with snow easily. I dont have them so I really don't know. I did read about 200 threads on tires and I got so much information I bought a set of loaded Ags and a set of unloaded turfs!

 

[k0ua]

When I was in the market for a tractor, I was told by several guys that R4 is the way to go. Oh well....

You might want to read this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/193438-cutting-groving-siping-r-4-a.html