Building a blade to move the earth

   / Building a blade to move the earth #1  

EMB5530

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2011
Messages
436
Location
Kansas
Tractor
5530 Mahindra 4x4
Just wondering if anyone out there has ever built a pusher blade for their tractor and how you may have gone about it.

I have a road grader bit that I was planning on cutting down to the width of the tractor and bolting on the blade and was thinking of taking 1/4 sheet metal and either cutting and rewelding back togther for the blade or ripping with an abrasive blade on a skill saw and then bending in a homemade break (not strong enough to bend without making cuts). I think that just taking several (4 different pieces 6"+6"+6+6) welded togther would be a good enough angle to curl up dirt and snow. The cutting relief cuts seems like it would be better b/c it would be more rounded but running a saw w/ an abrasive blade that long would use a lot of blade and would be hard to keep an even depth. Another option I was pondering was using a 30" casing pipe that is about 3/8 thick but I only have about 4' of it so I would have to cut it in half and then butt it togther and weld it but I dont know if the radius would be too tight.

I dunno with limited tools its a lot of work to fab the blade, but the brackets are no prob.
I just want a good solid blade for the front of a 50 horse 4x4 tractor.
I plan on making a scarifier and pushing around a good ammount of dirt.
Maybe I should just buy a blade and fab the brackets to a pre built one

How bout some opinions/Ideas

Thanks for the input:eek:
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #2  
Moving something as large as the earth might be hard LOL:laughing::laughing:. Just kidding. Never thought of doing that myself. They make 4 in 1 blades that are a mix between a bucket and a dozer blade.
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #3  
Archimedes said:
Give me a long enough lever and a place to stand, and I will move the earth.

He's in good company.
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I just have a watch guy to let me know when safety guy is round the corner:thumbsup:
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #7  
If your are thinking about putting it on your FEL, I would worry about bending the FEL frame of the FEL.
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #8  
50hp 4x4 tractor says nothing. whats the weight of the unit ? A 5000 pound kubota ? or 8000+ pound, like our 5245 ?

Dont mess with grinding slots and hammering, just have a shop make it on a brake press. Just ask them for an x by x sheet, with an x radius, brake pressed in facet bends. Brake presses run for 50-60 dollars an hour, and it might be just 30 minutes of work (15 for putting the right dies on the machine, 15 for the actual dozen of small bends)

Then get a massive C-channel to weld on the back of it. gusset the cutting edge to this C-beam. Heavy angle iron (i used 8x8x 5/8") will work too.

Make sure you support it all the way back to the rear axle, just like a front loader.
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth
  • Thread Starter
#9  
It will be installed on a 5530 mahindra aprox 6500#
And the Fel will be remove for the reason of bending frame
and yea I was plannin on supporting horizontally w/ 2" pipe or c channel
and then running horizontal 2"x1/4" flat bar between horz.
also thanks for the ideas.
keep um coming

Intelligence by input:thumbsup:
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #10  
Here's one from the Yahoo HomeBuiltEquipmentForTractors group
 

Attachments

  • grader blade.pdf
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   / Building a blade to move the earth #11  
Well, try looking at degelman and leon front blades, it will give you an idea. Cheapest would be to get a rear blade off craigslist and mount it up front.
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I was thinkin bout getin a rear blade and fabin from there but I would like one a bit talller like a snow blade. dunno i'll shop around for a bit and see what I can find as far as blades go and figure it out from there
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #13  
I built a couple over te years using 24 and 30 inch pipe. One was on a 2555 JD 2wd and the other was on a 4000 Ford 2wd. The one for the 2555 got a pinn on rake later. THey wont push alot of dirt like a dozer but coult push a fair amount. Both tractors the owners used a chisel plow on back for ballast and ripping the ground ahead of cuts.
The blades were really good in the woods as both owners were small time loggers. They didnt get in the way like a loader did and were a little better shoving things out of the way. If you want a blade to move more earth and level really well build a trailed behinde box scraper
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #14  
Two words (and a pic)

Box Blade
 

Attachments

  • LB-Box-Blade-HD84-784HD-1.jpg
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   / Building a blade to move the earth #15  
I am in the same boat. I need a 6 way blade for our skid steer but it is for personal use cutting trails through the woods and cleaning out ditches. dont want to pay 3000.00 for something that will see a few hours use a year.

What I was thinking is I have a 120 gallon propane tank that has a decent curve to it. If i cut it a little smaller than half I could fab brackets to get it to the point of mounting. Then I have to figure out the tilt and swing. neither should be too bad. Just have to build it tough.

Now thinking how simple this should be,,,, sounds like a lot of work for something my 80hp skid steer may bend like a pretzel.
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #16  
this was on a very small tractor, but I ran two arms under the tractor and made a block that I would use a hitch pin in the draw bar, I use two guides to keep it straight, in front and a place to lift it with,

I use a old tank for the blade, and I kinda did the snow plow thing with a pivot point at the very bottom only about 2" from the bottom so that If I did hit some thing really solid it would flip the blade, it was spring loaded,

it worked well was alway going to build one for the large tractor but never have, as of yet,
 
   / Building a blade to move the earth #17  
This is Max making a return appearance here. He's a 100 hp apprx 10,000 lb Massey Ferguson 399 4wd, fitted out with 50 ton winch and forestry package. Here he has a heavy duty plow blade that cost me $300 with all hydraulics, mounts etc. I use it in snow or dirt and did all the dozer work for my new 26x48 ft pole barn with it, leveling and driveways. I used the standard angling plow mount frame under the front end but reinforced it with 3" pipes running back to u channel brackets on the rear axle. When pushing dirt with it I simply use 2 chains from the top of the blade to the plow frame so it can't tip forward like it is supposed to when you hit something while snowplowing. I use regular 3/8 bolts as shear bolts to hold the chain that will break it I hit something really solid. As it has no down pressure, it's cutting ability is limited but works great in pushing loose material around. I'm going to put a sideboard on the left side this winter to be able to make long pushes down my 350 ft driveway.
If the snow gets too deep I fitted it out with a front mount blower last year that you can see at;
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/187397-max-snow-beast-finished.html
 

Attachments

  • MAX in snow.jpg
    MAX in snow.jpg
    25 KB · Views: 284
   / Building a blade to move the earth
  • Thread Starter
#18  
This is Max making a return appearance here. He's a 100 hp apprx 10,000 lb Massey Ferguson 399 4wd, fitted out with 50 ton winch and forestry package. Here he has a heavy duty plow blade that cost me $300 with all hydraulics, mounts etc. I use it in snow or dirt and did all the dozer work for my new 26x48 ft pole barn with it, leveling and driveways. I used the standard angling plow mount frame under the front end but reinforced it with 3" pipes running back to u channel brackets on the rear axle. When pushing dirt with it I simply use 2 chains from the top of the blade to the plow frame so it can't tip forward like it is supposed to when you hit something while snowplowing. I use regular 3/8 bolts as shear bolts to hold the chain that will break it I hit something really solid. As it has no down pressure, it's cutting ability is limited but works great in pushing loose material around. I'm going to put a sideboard on the left side this winter to be able to make long pushes down my 350 ft driveway.
If the snow gets too deep I fitted it out with a front mount blower last year that you can see at;
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/187397-max-snow-beast-finished.html

Thats one mean lookin machine:thumbsup:
 

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