HST Wine, Not any more

[MichSnowBlower]

David, great find on solving the HST whine!

I just purchased a new BX2660 with hard cab and knowing that I would not be able to remove my ROPS once the dealer installed the cab, after reading your post, I immeidately called the dealer and asked about injecting foam into my ROPS before they put on cab. As you might expect, dealer was not interested in tampering with the ROPS due to potential liability issues.

So my questions are:

1. Could this be done from the top of ROPS while it is installed, ie drilling a hole a top of ROPS and filling from top down and if so, any suggestions on how to do this?

2. If the foam does not dry as has been discussed, might it present any long term corrision from the inside-out problems?

3. Since auto body shops and home insulators are experts at injecting these foams into enclosed areas, might they be good people to consult about doing this?

Interested in any thoughts anyone might have about this.

Thanks again David for the great find and solution!

 

[Dargo]

I know, from a different adventure that foam filling un-capped 16" long pieces of 1.5" PVC didn't cure after 2 weeks. I was picking that stuff off of my boat seats for years

Strange, it works in cars. Oh, I mean I heard it works well and completely expands inside cars...

 

[jb62901]

Last fall I put 2 qts of anti-freeze in each side of the ROP's, No not so it would keep them from freezing. It knocked out 50-70% of the wine. I didn't post this till I saw what you Guys were doing and don't need the tractor police at my door. LOL

 

[Haywire]

Asked the dealer today about the tire foam, and they sent me to S&S Tire, who does it for them. It's the wrong kind of foam, a really dense rubber-like substance. They don't do it on site either, they send the tires off to the warehouse.

I also stopped by a collision place and they don't do that. They use pre-formed pieces from the OEM. They suggested a car audio place since they use it to quieten down rattles from big sub-woofers. Those folk told me they use the stuff in the quart cans like I linked to above. Said it was the consistency of a milk shake when you mix it. Sounds too thick for our uses.

I like the anti-freeze idea. Drill a hole, pour it in, weld the hole up and forget about it. Easy to get out too if need be. Might look at washer fluid if it has the corrosion inhibitors. It would be more environmentally friendly in the event of a leak.

Ian

 

[MerkurRS]

Before you go all crazy trying to determine IF standard household foam won't cure, why don't you test it?
Take a pipe with both ends capped off, drill a hole in one end and fill it with foam. Wait a week or more, cut the pipe in half and see if it cured?

Not waiting to see, I already drilled my ROPS and, using a long plastic hose, filled it with the large gap foam sealant. I didn't see if it worked yet, since I'm in the middle of changing fluids.....

 

[Crow4x4]

I wonder if you could just stuff the roll bar with insulation maby this would keep the wine down??

 

[RaydaKub]

I wonder if you could just stuff the roll bar with insulation maby this would keep the wine down??

I suppose you could try that, but I would think you'd need a lot bigger hole to try it than just a little hole for a straw like on a foam can... If you're worried about the roll bar integrity this would be a much bigger concern.

 

[Haywire]

Before you go all crazy trying to determine IF standard household foam won't cure, why don't you test it?

I got a response from Great Stuff:

Thank you for contacting The Dow Chemical Company.

GREAT STUFF (TM) polyurethane foam sealant products are designed for use in gaps and cracks ONLY. One-Component Foams (OCF) are moisture cured and form a moisture-proof skin as they cure. The skin (like the shell of an egg) blocks the interior of large sections from receiving moisture, eventually resulting in a pool of liquid in the center of the foam. In applications such as yours GREAT STUFF is not recommended and you should consider using a different product such as FROTH-PAK (TM) polyurethane spray foam systems.

 

[AxleHub]

The last 6 years I've used alot of spray foams in building a large foam & concrete home. Its important to know that different densities of spray foam are an issue.

If it were my tractor, I wouldn't use a big gap foam - too many air traps that could get condensation in them and serve like a moisture collector when going from dry to damp or hot to cold temps. Foams used for around windows and doors is white instead of tan - it expands far less and has higher density ( less air trapping). And because it expands with less force, you don't create undue pressures.

Another possible consideration is liqiud rubber (like what is used for dipping tools into to add rubber grip to tools).

The point this thread recognizes, is resonance is the problem. Ffrom a speaker background, we found that "filling" isn't always needed to change resonance. Sometimes just PART of the cavity being filled, corrects the problem. As an example, tipping the rops upside down and filling just the bottom flat and curves (top part of rops), may defeat the resonance problem, yet allow the majority of the rops to not be altered or changed (which maintains moisture draining condition of OEM design).

Any thing can be used to alter resonance - nylon or polyester rope, rubber hose, etc, as other ideas. Filling is not required to correct the resonance - just some kind of change to the hollow empty tube - that doesn't promote moisture collection or trapping.

 

[CHDinCT]

Been reading this with interest. I don't find the HST whine on my BX25 to be overly annoying but I wouldn't mind it being quieter either. I think the folding ROPS on the BH equipped models is open at the top of the lower, fixed ROPS structure so I might just try sticking some insulation in there just to see. I haven't checked to be sure if the ROPS are open - anyone know on a BX22/23/24?