Grease Guns

   / Grease Guns #11  
If you want cordless, get a Lincoln Powerluber. 12V is all youll need. Its a very good unit, pretty much the industry standard.

In all actuality you dont need a powered unit for a BX. It only takes me 5 mins max to grease mine with a manual gun.

For a manual gun i recommend a Lincoln 1134. Its what i use. Its their heaviest duty manual gun. Generates high 7500 PSI for those nasty plugged fittings. Not the cheapest, but its served me well.

41QkfomL1dL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with Whip Hose and Rigid Pipe: Automotive
 
   / Grease Guns
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I see said the blind man, as he picked up his hammer and saw...
 
   / Grease Guns #15  
5030 I am confused, if I throw away the ridgid tube and use the flex tube how does the process get done when I only have 2 hands? It takes 2 hands to pump right? Now I have to hold the flex hose against the zerk hard...

I am just confused, I am missing the boat here on something silly. Like I think I said, I am a newb to tractors...

I appreciate the input..

No..... You put the coupler on the alemite fitting and the jaws in the coupler are spring loaded so it stays on. When you apply pressure (grease), the coupler jaws actually grip the head of the zerk (alemite) fitting in relation to how much pressure is generated by the grease gun mechanism.

If you have to physically hold the coupler on the fitting, something is wrong with the coupler or the fitting, or both. That's why fittings are mushroom shaped (look at the end of the fitting). It's so the coupler jaws can grasp it and lock on.

I grease a lot and I wear out couplers a lot. When they won't grip any more, I toss 'em and get another. All couplers and grease hose and rigid grease pipes are NPT so interchange is easy. I go through fittings too. I keep an assortment of alemite fittings on hand too. I typically run through 90 pounds of grease per year, sometimes more, depending on machine use. Changing tubes on a cartridge gun would be a PITA so bulk loading from a remote source is more expeditious for me and if I need to, I can reach 75 feet with my bulk greaser hose.

Bulk greasers aren't for everyone because of the cost. The pumps are expensive, the grease hose is expensive, however, buying grease in bulk (50-75 or 150 pound open head pails or drums is considerably cheaper than buying individual tubes, especially if you use a synthetic grease (like I do) instead of the box store clay based, lithium compond grease.

I don't like or use any clay based grease because one, it tends to harden inside assemblies during use, two, it's unsuitable for sustained high speed loads like revolving bearings and three, it's black and messy. The synthetic I use is wide application, won't harden in service, is basically waterproof and it's red-orange and not messy.

The drawback is it ain't cheap, but like all things in life, you get what you pay for.

There are straight fittings for special use that won't lock a coupler on, however, you won't find them on tractors or implements. They are designed for low pressure greasing in confined spaces.
 
   / Grease Guns #16  
Scoobys 1134 is looking good. Perhaps a good glass bead blastin' and get rid of the New Holland blue and hit it w/ Kubota #2 orange ehh? I saw a grease gun holder by Lincoln, maybe 2 of them and strap it someplace to the tractor!


$31.00 here

I have a couple on my grease intensive implements with hand guns attached to grease in the field, if need be. You can buy the strap seperately for about 6 bucks.
 
   / Grease Guns #18  
Also grease gun newbies, don't forget that the coupler is knurled on the end so that you may screw and unscrew it with thumb and forefinger to tighten and loosen it on the grease zerk to facilitate easy insertion and removal. In other words you can loosen it to put it easily on the zerk, give it a little twist to tighten so that it stays there easily by itself, pump your grease in, and then loosen it again to easily remove it. Some people have actually broken zerks trying to get the grease coupler off. It is interesting that many do not know that. Of course you can find a "sweet spot" that will pop on and off pretty easily if your zerks are all pretty much the same size with no need for adjustment.

James K0UA
 
   / Grease Guns #19  
I've gone through a lot of greese guns. I've tried most of the major brands on the air powered guns and think that they are all junk. Too much effort to keep them working, and every one of them will jam on you. I tried the cheapy brands with similar results. I've bought quite a few hand pump guns and one from Napa that I bought 20 years ago still works great, but I've bought some from there since then and taken them back because they where junk.

Lucas is a brand that I bought at Home Depot that is a lever style grease gun that I really like. It works every time!!!!!

I'm still looking at cordless, but haven't spent any money on them yet.

I prefer the solid tube for the gease gun over the flexible. You can put it on easier, hold it in place easier and just move along faster with a solid tube. Unfortunatly, some fittings are impossible to get to with the solid tube, so you need a flexible one too. Instead of changing tubes, or just having the flexibible one on all the time, I have a grease gun with both types of tubes on it.

Eddie
 
   / Grease Guns
  • Thread Starter
#20  
No..... You put the coupler on the alemite fitting and the jaws in the coupler are spring loaded so it stays on. When you apply pressure (grease), the coupler jaws actually grip the head of the zerk (alemite) fitting in relation to how much pressure is generated by the grease gun mechanism.

If you have to physically hold the coupler on the fitting, something is wrong with the coupler or the fitting, or both. That's why fittings are mushroom shaped (look at the end of the fitting). It's so the coupler jaws can grasp it and lock on.

I grease a lot and I wear out couplers a lot. When they won't grip any more, I toss 'em and get another. All couplers and grease hose and rigid grease pipes are NPT so interchange is easy. I go through fittings too. I keep an assortment of alemite fittings on hand too. I typically run through 90 pounds of grease per year, sometimes more, depending on machine use. Changing tubes on a cartridge gun would be a PITA so bulk loading from a remote source is more expeditious for me and if I need to, I can reach 75 feet with my bulk greaser hose.

Bulk greasers aren't for everyone because of the cost. The pumps are expensive, the grease hose is expensive, however, buying grease in bulk (50-75 or 150 pound open head pails or drums is considerably cheaper than buying individual tubes, especially if you use a synthetic grease (like I do) instead of the box store clay based, lithium compond grease.

I don't like or use any clay based grease because one, it tends to harden inside assemblies during use, two, it's unsuitable for sustained high speed loads like revolving bearings and three, it's black and messy. The synthetic I use is wide application, won't harden in service, is basically waterproof and it's red-orange and not messy.

The drawback is it ain't cheap, but like all things in life, you get what you pay for.

There are straight fittings for special use that won't lock a coupler on, however, you won't find them on tractors or implements. They are designed for low pressure greasing in confined spaces.


Ah HA! OK...THANK YOU! But I gotta ask, what flavor grease are you using? I want the best...I was thinking, I think I have a half dozen tubes of Royal Purple out back in storage, prob 6 years old or so. I need to pick a grease and it sounds like you know EXACTLY what yer talkin' bout . I appreciate the input!

...and there is merit in your bulk loading procedures...I will look into the same deal on a small scale perhaps, maybe a 5 gallon can and a hand pump transfer? Maybe they make that kinda deal. Time will tell how much and how often I am using this machine and weather or not I need to do that.
 

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