M series assistance please

[bunchgrass]

First, I should have been posting under this Kubota heading instead of under the General forum - my apologies to those who've already seen some of my questions.

I'm looking at buying a Kubota M series tractor and am considering the M7040 vs M8540. I run a hay and cow/calf operation so plenty of loader work.

Need: loader, pallet forks, 3rd function remote for loader (runs hay grapple)

Options: cab vs ROP w/ canopy, 2WD vs 4WD, Special Utility (SU) series vs standard 'M' for 7040.

Want: to keep price below $40,000

Your opinion(s) on what options are must haves vs expendable. Example = 2WD vs 4WD.

 

[slowzuki]

Where are you located. What type of hay (small squares / rounds / silage ). What hay equipment do you have ie disc mower etc.

Assuming you have a small mounted disc mower and handle dry rounds, any of the M's over 50 or so hp can do the work. If running a disc mower conditioner you need the larger M's, maybe even a 96s or 105s.

If you ever think you may sell it, get 4wd. 2wd tractors are hard to sell and take a big hit on depreciation. Having a 4wd its hard to go back to a 2wd, at least on a loader tractor. In muddy seasons its so nice to feed without having to chain up and put thousands of pounds of ballast on the rear.

 

[jdavis7399]

If you are going to use the tractor you want the 8540 with cab, wheel weights, and 4wd. The cab will be appreciated whether cutting hay when its 105 degrees or feeding hay in the snow and sleet. The 4wd will keep the tractor moving with a full loader or in bad conditions. The wheel weights provide better traction pulling or pretty good loader capacity without a rear attachment.

I run a 9540 and it is large enough to pull most round balers and sub 12 foot cutters to provide a backup to your primary hay tractor. I also moved the rear wheels to their widest setting and the tractor feels much more stable and confident.

 

[bunchgrass]

@slowzuki - we're in Idaho and do small squares and use and accumulator and grapple setup (ie 3rd function on loader) as well as have small cow/calf operation. I agree with the 4WD assessment - nothing worse than a loaded bucket on a slick slopes.

Part of my concern w/ cab and larger tractor is the need for ability to get around in tighter spaces (ie. pens and sheds) w/o tearing off the roof (of either the cab or my shed). Might be worries about nothing - you know like the first scratch on a new car!

 

[slowzuki]

If you spend a lot of time in sheds you will want an open tractor, but I know how hot it is in parts of Iowa in the summer and a/c is really nice.

You'll probably want something around the 7040 or larger size. The 96s and 105s are going to be tight inside buildings.

What tractors do you have now? A lot of people will keep an old 135/165 MF or similar for scraping out pens with a box or rear blade and raking while having a larger machine for mowing and baling.

 

[bunchgrass]

Oh slowzuki! I'm in Idaho not Iowa - but I can excuse your knowledge of US geography since you're Canadian Sadly, here in the states Idaho is often mistaken for any other "I" state by US citizens. No wonder we have an inferiority complex!

BTW - it does get hot here in the summer too. Does the canopy provide the same clearance/visibility issues as the cab does? Or are those even issues?

Right now I have, and am always working on, a MF 265 w/ beat to helk loader. I'm able to think about upgrading because even my wife is feeling sorry for me with my current tractor - she said you spend more time under it than on it:confused2:

 

[jdavis7399]

If you are only working square bales and need to work indoors you definitely do not want the 8540, it is larger than the 7040 in every dimension and you do not need the extra capacity.

If you are working indoors, you may want to consider the Grand L series along the lines of a 4740 or 5740. They have the 3rd function, have enough power for a square baler, are much more maneuverable than a 7040, and the HST transmission is a great help in close quarters loader work. It is also lower and shorter than the 7040.

I use an open cab 4630 for woods and close quarters work and it will run circles around the 9540 when power and capacity are not an issue.

 

[Blksim]

Hi bunchgrass.
My situation may be similar to yours. Run a small cow/calf operation. I feed round bales but still store some in sheds that are real tight to move in and out of. That and costs kept me from getting a cab tractor. I figured if I didn't tear it up in a shed I would hang it on a tree when pulling firewood.
The tractor I use for those chores now is a M7040 with mechanical shuttle. Rears are filled and set out as far as possible. I mow hay with a 8' disc mower and roll with a 4X4 new holland baler. The tractor handles a 10' draw bar rotary mower just fine. Nothing heavy, just pasture chipping. I put a canopy on mine and it makes a difference in the hay fields.
I have little over 1400 hours on this one with no problems to date. Have a smaller tractor for tedder and rake and cleaning out barns etc. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

 

[canoetrpr]

My situation is somewhat similar to yours. I have a small cow/calf operation. I'd planned on getting a L4740 or L5740. The HST is super nice on those tractors. Both would have fit with 5-6 inches clearance under the pole barn that I clean out in the spring every year.

OTOH, the M7040 offered a larger tractor with much more loader that I could grow into and would be particularly useful when I moved to a larger property.

For me a cab was a must this time around and would bite the bullet and do the cab for sure. Now that I have had one, hard to imagine life without it. I can be out in inclement weather that I would otherwise stay in during. Important for me as I have little time on my hands and like to get things don when I have the time.

I don't think you are going into any really small buildings with either the L5740 or M7040 with a cab. One wrong turn and I think you are going to really damage the cab. If you get a cab, you will have to keep low hanging branches trimmed. I embarked on a branch clearing project with a rental pole saw - got it done in a few hours. I will have to do that every year.

I also recently purchased a MF 255 to spread manure - no loader - and I think I will use this to clear the pole barn. You might want to consider keeping your MF 265 around for this as well. I might even consider making some changes to my building so I can get in with the larger tractor - however I won't be turning around anywhere.

BTW: While I do like the hydraulic shuttle on the M7040, I don't think it will compare to a HST for precise loader work. I'm far from being over the learning curve but it has practically been like relearning to use a loader in a pile of manure. The HST stops on a dime. Maybe the M7040 will as well some day but I doubt it. I'm getting better everytime I use it. Something important to bear in mind if using the loader is your primary function.

 

[Jon Chanoski]

I am in a simiar cow calf set up and looked at new tractors in this size range and thought about the m7040 NewHolland Workmaster 75 and John Deere 5075E and ended up getting the John Deere 5075E this fall with 553 loader skid steer quick atatch bale spike and 3in 1 loader bucket no cab. It is much heaver than the m7040 at over 9000lbs with loader weights and rimguard more loader capacity and seems more stable with a round bale or bucket full of dirt. I only have 20 hours on it so far but I am very impressed with it and have no regrets in my choice. I got the whole set up with 2 remotes in the rear and 1 on the loader 2 sets of wheel weights and rimguard inthe rears for $36000. I think it would be woth your time to check it out. I use my L3400 with loader for cleaning the pens it is just the right size.