Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx

[foggy1111]

I made the frame from a drawing here on TBN. The thread was from the DIY thread on a shrub bucket (do a search for "shrub" and look for a member by the name of CHAMPY - it's his great frame design).

I may make the shrub bucket next spring to bolt onto this same frame (therefore it's a bit overbuilt). I suppose it could also work for a set of forks or other front implement.

I will lift / support the plow with a chain......but I believe I also can apply down-pressure via the loader's curl function (if I want to). It appears like I will get about 15" of plow float out of my chain....but I need to get things mounted on my tractor to know for sure.

The pic I took is a bit confusing due to the boards holding the frame(s) in place. In another week or so I will get things mounted to my tractor - which is 200 miles away.

I also plan to use a slit pipe on the cutting edge to use for a skid....in lieu of skid shoes. More to come......

OH....and I have ample clearance between the plow frames and any tractor parts. I am going to be a bit close on my loaders "timing bar".....but I think I have a few inches to spare anywhere else. When you see it mounted it will make a bit more sense.

 

[JB4310]

Real nice construction/ welds. MAYBE some gussets for the plow pin tabs, if they are just butt welded ?

JB.

 

[foggy1111]

Real nice construction/ welds. MAYBE some gussets for the plow pin tabs, if they are just butt welded ?

JB.

Those tabs are welded to an upside-down C-channel.....and the end of the channel is closed up with a 3/8" x 2 bar (which makes it look like a tube in the pic). Thus those tabs get good support.....you just cant see it in the pics.

I wish I could take credit for the welding.....a local welding shop is doing that and I'm just providing a plan and a bit of assistance.

 

[RoyJackson]

Very nice job, Foggy!! And you too, JB4310!!!

Foggy, I know what you mean about missing your shop. I've worked in a number of job/fabrication shops over the years. I surely miss access to the tools.

 

[foggy1111]

Very nice job, Foggy!! And you too, JB4310!!!

Foggy, I know what you mean about missing your shop. I've worked in a number of job/fabrication shops over the years. I surely miss access to the tools.

Roy....I can do quite a bit of my own work....but I lack the HD tools and welding equipment these days.....and what I do have for stuff is scattered between my deer land, my home and a cabin I own.

I sure do miss having the abilities I used to have in order to fab this stuff up. Sometimes when you go into a project it's hard to know how your going to address some of the issues that come along....and it's doubly hard to convey those half-baked ideas to other folks. I have drawn LOTS of mechanical prints in my previous work.....so that makes it a bit easier to convey ideas.

The shop I work with has pretty talented operators.....and they tell me I'm one of the few that supplies tolerances to my drawings (on critical areas) ......and I keep those tolerances "real world". :laughing:

 

[foggy1111]

FINALLY! I got my plow mounted yesterday. I had to make a little tweak (ground 1/4" off the top) to the JD pins to get the mount to work right....but nothing too serious. Its hard to make stuff fit right when your build and the tractor are 200 miles apart.

I also had to add two short sections of 2x2" tubes so the channels would not rest on the plow cylinders. I welded them on the plow frame as shown in pic 2. I may have been able to cut off a section of the channels IF I had a torch at my land. I do have a stick welder....so adding the tubes was easy to do.

All in all.....I think this plan worked out GREAT! Thanks to Champy for a good reference on a frame build....and to Bob's photos for the set-back, floating plow pics. Lots of good reference material from many other posters too. THANKS!! I hope it works as good as I think it will.

With the plow mount points set 12" back.....I JUST clear the frame with about two inches to spare when the plow is fully angled to left or right and the frame is tipped to a "worse case senario".....as in pic 4.

 

[RoyJackson]

FINALLY! I got my plow mounted yesterday. I had to make a little tweak (ground 1/4" off the top) to the JD pins to get the mount to work right....but nothing too serious. Its hard to make stuff fit right when your build and the tractor are 200 miles apart.

I also had to add two short sections of 2x2" tubes so the channels would not rest on the plow cylinders. I welded them on the plow frame as shown in pic 2. I may have been able to cut off a section of the channels IF I had a torch at my land. I do have a stick welder....so adding the tubes was easy to do.

All in all.....I think this plan worked out GREAT! Thanks to Champy for a good reference on a frame build....and to Bob's photos for the set-back, floating plow pics. Lots of good reference material from many other posters too. THANKS!! I hope it works as good as I think it will.

Looks really good, Foggy!!

I was very curious how the frame extended as far back would clear the tractor's weight box...plenty of room though!
And, one advantage I see...less leverage on the loader frame...less possibility of racking the frame.

 

[foggy1111]

Looks really good, Foggy!!

I was very curious how the frame extended as far back would clear the tractor's weight box...plenty of room though!
And, one advantage I see...less leverage on the loader frame...less possibility of racking the frame.

Thanks Roy. Yep....clearance on the tractor or grill guard is a non-event with this build. Plenty of room. I just had enough room (1/2" to spare) between the gussets and the loader timing bar. Several dimentions were a little guess-work and from pictures or sketches (and a bit of luck never hurts).

One thing I would do over.....is to make the tube on the blade edge to about 2.5" to 3" diameter. Mine is about 1 1/2" diameter....and I think I am going to pull allot of sandy soil with the snow if the ground is not frozen. This smaller size tube may be better for hard-surface roads. I dont plan for any other plow skids.....so I am uncertain if the pipe on the blade edge will work. Time will tell.

 

[JB4310]

Yup, looks great.

Another important advantage with the rearward mounting is that the entire A-frame is lower than the adaptor frame. this keeps the lower loader arms up higher.
Some of theses I've seen have the plow's A-frame attached to the adaptor frame/plate about even with or higher than the implement carriers of the loader. Since it is critical that the A-frame is level or parallel to the ground to allow the plow to be angled and have the cutting edge make contact with the ground throughout the full angling motion.

With the A-frame mounted higher than the carriers it puts the carriers dangerously close to the ground, as you need to lower them so much to level the A-frame, which could possibly cause them to be damaged by impacts.

So this set up with the rearward mounting has several advantages.

JB

 

[KennyG]

This is something I'd like to do in the future. I'm not sure what the hydraulic system setup is. Do you still have the full raise and curl operating on the loader? If so, do you have another hydraulic circuit for the angle cylinders? I was wondering if you need curl adjustment to change the blade tilt on this setup or if you can use the curl connections to angle the blade.