2305 engine needs to be rebuilt

[hizoot]

What other forum??

I'm gonna try and list it...but I've heard this forum frowns on listing other forums and treats the name like a curse word...like this****. It is deeretalkdotcom.

edit...well,I'll be...it came thru without the censorship.....now I'll probably be banned.

 

[Gizmo2]

I'm gonna try and list it...but I've heard this forum frowns on listing other forums and treats the name like a curse word...like this****. It is deeretalkdotcom.

edit...well,I'll be...it came thru without the censorship.....now I'll probably be banned.

I'll go with ya........64.113.39.55/

 

[RoyJackson]

Well this is just great(sarcasm light "on". So there is a chance that by me operating my new tractor lightly (only short periods at 2500 rpm) during the break-in period, I may have glazed the cylinders? I give up.

Since Deere is covering the repair, it's apparent they're not considering it an operator related failure.
The only thing I, personally, know that can cause rings not to seat is changing the oil before break-in...especially if a slippery synthetic oil is used.

As far as break-in...use the tractor as you would expect to, but try not to run it at a constant RPM for extended periods. That's tough if you're using a PTO driven implement (RFM in my case). So, when mowing, I just stopped every 15-20 minutes (not disengaging in the PTO) and varied the RPM for a few minutes, then returned to PTO speed.
This was on a 790 I bought used about 7-8 years ago. It had 24 hours on the meter when delivered. I continued the 50 hour break-in period.

 

[jimgerken]

Since Deere is covering the repair, it's apparent they're not considering it an operator related failure.
The only thing I, personally, know that can cause rings not to seat is changing the oil before break-in...especially if a slippery synthetic oil is used.

Roy is asking the question that is also bothering me. If we can ask the Original Poster, at what point (engine hours) did you change out the original fill of factory break-in oil, and what did you put in it then for oil? In that first 100 hours, did you do some real work with the tractor?
My local dealer has told me for the past ten years, everytime the sell a new tractor they recommend trying to do some meaningful work in the breakin period, then change the oil the first time by putting JD breakin oil again for 50 more hours. I always say that the tractor should be pulling a ground engaging operation like disking or something, and work it hard enough to make it smoke a bit and pull the rpm down. And of course I'd run it at PTO speed while doing it. A couple hours of that ought to do it.

 

[Victory Pete]

I am working the 2320 again today, I have been grading my driveway with a 54" plow and 48" boxblade. Today I am keeping the RPM's up and I have also been varying them. I have yet to use the PTO. Shoud I spin both front and rear shafts? I am up to 26 hours.

VP

 

[classic]

+When they're done rebuilding have them run it on the dyno for an hour. That'll break it in and make the rings seat.

 

[Henri88]

Roy is asking the question that is also bothering me. If we can ask the Original Poster, at what point (engine hours) did you change out the original fill of factory break-in oil, and what did you put in it then for oil? In that first 100 hours, did you do some real work with the tractor?
My local dealer has told me for the past ten years, everytime the sell a new tractor they recommend trying to do some meaningful work in the breakin period, then change the oil the first time by putting JD breakin oil again for 50 more hours. I always say that the tractor should be pulling a ground engaging operation like disking or something, and work it hard enough to make it smoke a bit and pull the rpm down. And of course I'd run it at PTO speed while doing it. A couple hours of that ought to do it.

I made my first oil change at 50 hrs. as stipulated in the book. Change to 15w40 castrol gtx diesel and jd filters. Never use synthetic oil and oil change was done once a year as I was putting less hours than what was recommended for oil change. If I recall right, the manual ask every 500 hrs or once a year, which ever come first. Have use it for all kind of application but mostly mmm during the summer and snowblower during the winter and god knows I have not baby it but I always made sure to do my cool down after a hard work, 1-3 minute Idling, depending if it was summer or winter. I also use the fel quite a bit and usually operate it around 2300-2600rpm. Thanks for helping to figure this out. Don't want to do the same mistake if mistake was, but I really don't think so. Engine operating cold is what I'm leaning toward. Operating winter time with the heater cab could have brought the temp. down, but I had lots of heat in the cab. Oh, and by the way, I have always used my pto implement at pto rpm, that would be mmm, snowblower and tiller.

 

[Henri88]

+When they're done rebuilding have them run it on the dyno for an hour. That'll break it in and make the rings seat.

Yes, good point and living 200 miles from my dealer, if there is any kind of leak it should come out.:thumbsup:

 

[Henri88]

Henri:

So glad to hear you'll have your tractor back soon, and sounds like you picked a great dealer.

I sure did. Little far, specially when you have a New Holland and Bobcat dealer 15 minute from here, but hey, what can I say, I wanted green. I bought every pieces of equipment from them, except the quick hitch and they are the one that told me the speeco was on sale at Princess auto. It may have cost me a little bit more at my dealer, but I really think that I am getting my money worth and more right now.

 

[Mike476]

Henri, where in Northern NB are you, I grew up along the Mirimachi.