Felling Trees Using FEL - Feelish?

[blueriver]

I watched my neighbor last year use the FEL on a 30hp kubota with forks on it ... the tree between the forks ... I kept thinking this is gonna get ugly ... when that tree about
12" in diameter made a shift to the left and only slid about 18" before it hit the other fork
that entire Kubota shook and I still think today if he had not had the forks curled down the amount they where it would have flipped that tractor.

 

[KYDan]

Thanks for your feedback folks - My original intent was to use a winch and cable but I waited too long on a good buy on CL and lost out on the winch and wanted to get these trees downed while I had a day off.

Loose limbs (widow makers) are a factor whether you are sitting on a tractor or running the saw, so I am not sure they factor into the risk of this procedure but certainly something to always keep in mind when felling trees.

Hardwoods with heavy branches and fickle grain make things interesting and I would agree multiply the risk to life, limb and equipment.

At the end of the day I guess I was looking for atonement for risking a $25K tractor to save a $10k building and as expected no warm hugs on TBN. :laughing:

Question for using cables - How high on the tree should they be placed to control the fall? With my failing dexterity I am not sure climbing a 30' extension ladder to attach a cable would have been a safer alternative?

As high as practical. Since your cut is the fulcrum point it would be ideal to have more weight below the attach point which would give you more control.

 

[Beltzington]

Given that a FEL can only apply a point force to a round tree trunk, I think it's pure luck that the point force can help steer the tree. In reality, it is far, far more dependent on the cut geometry and the loading of the tree. A poor cut, a leaning tree, or an asymmetric load on the tree can cause the fall direction to vary, or cause the butt to spin or walk off the stump. Any of that action will easily overcome whatever push a FEL can provide, and make the tractor seem like a toy. I would only count on the FEL for very small and light trees.

Very good points I had not considered, having tried to pull one of the bigger trees after it was down without success indicates my CUT was out of its weight class.

 

[GrowFarmers]

Do you use felling wedges? While they don't give you as much controll as a well placed cable and winch, they can give you a bit more influence on where the tree falls. With practice you can get pretty good control, but it depends on making good quality felling cuts.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I the only thing that realy controls the fall is the hinge you leave. If the hindge is to small it will have little or no control. If the hinge is adequate the cable can keep the tree from hinging over backwards if the cable will take the tension or the cable allows you to pull the tree over thru the hinge. The cable does not control the fall. The tree can still go sideways, roll, or turn as it comes down.

When using your tractor, too much pressure, which is impossible to guage, can induce a barber chair. If you ever barber chaired a tree you were cutting you would not want to be anywhere near one. Especially while working in front of your tractor and under your tractor bucket. Worrying about the tractor damage would be the least of your problems.

Just my .02

 

[Beltzington]

I own and have used wedges on larger trees but have never gotten the hang of it. I am sure they have a purpose I just don't think they were meant for use on 20" diameter trees. They either get cut by the chain or I spend more adjusting them instead of focusing on making a clean backcut.

Got to go do some chores - You all have a great, "and safe," day!

 

[MadJack]

Felling wedges, studying the tree canopy and plunge-cutting are the proper way to drop large trees. Leaving a minimum of a 2" 'hinge' is your main safety on solid trees.

My neighbor puts a grade stake in the ground, then drives it out of sight with the tree he's felling! I'm not that good but I can drop most within 5 or 10 feet of the stake.

If you plan to continue cutting trees with your tractor next to them, better call your insurance company to see if they will cover "improper use".

Your tractor, your call!

 

[GT2]

Felling wedges, studying the tree canopy and plunge-cutting are the proper way to drop large trees. Leaving a minimum of a 2" 'hinge' is your main safety on solid trees.

Please describe this plunge cut method
Thanks

 

[MadJack]

You guys on the West coast make an under-cut/wedge....
We use the saw-sights and make a wedge-cut (TOP) on the same side (fall side) then push the tip of the saw through the tree center and cut towards the back, where most people make their usual back-cut. we leave the last 3" to 4" intact and pull the saw out, then drive wedges which create an upward pressure. Next, finish the back-cut at a downward 45* angle to meet the plunge-cut. the result is the tree usually jumps in the direction it's supposed to fall. You still need to leave a minimum of two inches for the hinge or you'll never control the direction of fall!

 

[Deere Dude]

Thanks for your feedback folks - My original intent was to use a winch and cable but I waited too long on a good buy on CL and lost out on the winch and wanted to get these trees downed while I had a day off.

Loose limbs (widow makers) are a factor whether you are sitting on a tractor or running the saw, so I am not sure they factor into the risk of this procedure but certainly something to always keep in mind when felling trees.

Hardwoods with heavy branches and fickle grain make things interesting and I would agree multiply the risk to life, limb and equipment.

At the end of the day I guess I was looking for atonement for risking a $25K tractor to save a $10k building and as expected no warm hugs on TBN. :laughing:

Question for using cables - How high on the tree should they be placed to control the fall? With my failing dexterity I am not sure climbing a 30' extension ladder to attach a cable would have been a safer alternative?

I use a 24' extension ladder but don't go all the way up. I would guess about 15 feet or so works for me. Then I put a lot of tension on it with a come along or a truck. That worked good for my 60-75' somewhat straight trees trees, although I think it would work good for any tree. When I can get a tree leaning a little bit from all the pressure I exert, I feel fairly confident it will go in that direction.

But, I was dropping a 75' tree with not many branches in the bottom 45 feet. This was about 10 feet from a pole building and wanted to drop it down the driveway close to the pole building. I had my wife in the truck with a 100 cable hooked about 15' up the tree with some tension on the cable. It was all planned out ahead of time. As soon as I started cutting and could see the tree start to lean and fall I stepped back and started waving my arms at my wife to start backing up. She thought I wanted something else so she sat there. The tree came down in the general direction but as soon as the tension was off the cable the tree has a mind of it's own and no stopping it. It landed about 2 feet away along the side of the building. That was almost a disaster. Still, for me it's the best way to go as long as there is a well thought out plan ahead of time covering all the scenarios.