Everything Attachments Yard Pulverizer 48" or 60" with B2320

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Get your yard ready for seeding with the Everything Attachments Yard Pulverizer
Everything Attachments Yard Pulverizer comes in a 48" and 60" and up. I'm thinking a 60" if my B2320 will pull it but I guess the 48" would do what I want with just a bit longer time. Which will the B2320 pull?
This will be to do my yard which is a bit lumpy then maybe sell or let it rust away in my back field.
I have a boxblade and a plow and a tiller but interested in this attachment soooo don't need recommendations of other attachments unless you have actual experience with this attachment and it didn't work and you got something different that wasn't a boxblade, plow or tiller.
Now if you have some other attachment besides a tiller, plow and/or boxblade that you feel you need to have me consider that your convinced will do a better job for leveling a yard and it's less money then please feel free to recommend it with price and where to find info.:thumbsup:

 

[psdx]

Just trying to understand better - are you planning on running this over the existing sod, or doing something else to loosen it up first? I think that will make a difference on the 48" vs 60" question. Either way you will be dealing with pieces of sod that get dislodged - think you have a rake in your collection somewhere. More seat time

 

[s219]

That's a bit of a one trick pony. I'd only see value in that implement if you knew you needed to break up crusty organic soil for seeding (since the main point of the roller is to break up loose chunks). If the soil had clay, or was heavily compacted, I'd probably go with a box blade rippers followed by a rake or drag screen to smooth things out.

If the soil is in good condition, I'd simply run a plug aerator over it before seeding.

Now, a powered pulverizer is another story. Those are great if you need to scrub weeds or sod off the soil.

In all cases, beware of rotating implements in cases where you have wire grass, since you'll spend a lot of time unspooling it.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I'd go with 48" to really use it effectively. The weight goes up quite a bit as you get wider with those units, especially if you go with dual rollers. The B2320 might lift the larger one ok, but handling it on any kind of a grade might be iffy.

 

[creekbend]

Just a thought? If you contact Ted at Everything Attachments, he will be more than willing to offer advice and suggestions. At least that is what the website states. Best of Luck.

 

[teg]

This is NOT for a yard with grass... I use mine for creating a nice seed bed in dirt after I've leveled and compacted the dirt. You'll want to: "till", flatten, compact, rough up (scratch the surface), seed, roll and water the heck out of it.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Just trying to understand better - are you planning on running this over the existing sod, or doing something else to loosen it up first? I think that will make a difference on the 48" vs 60" question. Either way you will be dealing with pieces of sod that get dislodged - think you have a rake in your collection somewhere. More seat time

I want to level existing yard covered with grass. I do have a RatchetRake.

Just a thought? If you contact Ted at Everything Attachments, he will be more than willing to offer advice and suggestions. At least that is what the website states. Best of Luck.

I did email them for their opiinion of size

This is NOT for a yard with grass... I use mine for creating a nice seed bed in dirt after I've leveled and compacted the dirt. You'll want to: "till", flatten, compact, rough up (scratch the surface), seed, roll and water the heck out of it.

You guys are as bad as Steve Barlow (Owner of Barlows Tractor Sales) when I want to buy a piece of equipment from him and he starts asking questions of why I want it and then tells me it won't do what I'm wanting done as easy as I think I'm wanting to do it.
I have a Ferguson Overseeder to do all those final details but I'm just wanting to make my yard (about 3 acres) golf course smooth so I can fly over it when I mow and not be beat to death on the rough spots.
This piece of equipment looked like it would dig it, level it and beat the crap out of the dirt to seed it but alas I see that the current standing grass will be a problem. Looks like I'm back to the Boxblade to dig and level it, the tiller to pulverize it and then the RatchetRake to pull out the grass and then the Ferguson Overseeder to seed it. See, that's a lot of implements, which I have, to do a simple job that one piece of equipment should do, for under $1000.
Thanks each one of you for your input.:thumbsup:

 

[dennisgw]

There always is Round Up to get rid of your grass first and then you can start fresh???????

 

[psdx]

Whenever I have been working on getting a smooth seed bed for a lawn, I finish drag it with a old set of bed springs or a sideways railroad tie. The problem I had when tilling was that there was so much loose soil that the tractor left ruts deep enough that whatever I was dragging behind wouldn't cover up my tracks completely. The ruts were partially covered, but not totally. I used a King Quad to drag after tilling since it was so light weight. The other two times I did this it was with a simple disc. I just went over it a few times in different directions to loosen the top layer, and I could drag using my tractor just fine. Maybe a tiller set to a very shallow depth would be fine also. Once I dug may yard down 6-7 inches it was too late to dig it shallow so I never tried that. And your 2320 without a loader is much lighter then my B3030 with a loader and loaded tires, so your experience may be different. Either way - as you said, you will have sod to deal with.

The place I'm at now some some seriously rough spots. I tried rolling it when the ground was sopping wet, and didn't see much difference. I have threatened to rip it out and start over, but so far I just keep griping about it .

 

[leonz]

Hello John Thomas,

Dont waste your money John Thomas!

Fortunately for you Steve Barlow is right on the
money with this attachment!!!!

I can tell you from experience the mechanics of
this thing will only bounce as it tries to dig in simply
from the attempt to drag over the sod in any case.

The grass roots of the sod are what the unit is
attempting to rip through and even weed sod will
prevent this from happening and heavy clay will
make it worse.


If you want to level your lawn and do it the right
way and purchase the smallest Sicma or other
brand Italian stone burrier from Ken Sweet.

A stone burier is roto tiller with hardened vertical tines
that break the rock as it tills and buries the rock and
heavy clods of dirt at the bottom of the tilling depth
and covers it with soil all at the same time.

Further the stone burier can be used in a garden just
like a tiller as it has an open cage roller to flatten and
pack the soil down lightly for planting(which is exacty
what you want to make new sod with heavy growth.


A 36-48 inch stone burrier will do this for you
with no questions asked.

Stone buriers are used to make new lawns and till
grapevine rows in steep and flat land vineyards to
keep the weeds down and break up rocks
that are pushed up by frost heaving.


If you buy a stone burrier you will have a forever
implement that you can use to make gardens and
flower beds as well.


I Do not know the first thing about these folks but
seeing the "You tube Video" with him in the skid steer loader
promoting his grapple attachment and moving the oversized log and falling forward into the center of his drainage ditch in "What not to do with your skid steer loader" which was staged obviously as the extended boom and LARGE log fell directly into the center of the ditch-lucky for him the log was long and he avoided a side tip over when it rolled into the center of the ditch.
_________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[s219]

Heck, if you want to smooth out an established lawn, I'd simply top dress the low spots with a mix of pete moss and top soil. You can add 1/2" a few times a year until you're happy with the results.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Hello John Thomas,

Dont waste your money John Thomas!

Fortunately for you Steve Barlow is right on the
money with this attachment!!!!

I can tell you from experience the mechanics of
this thing will only bounce as it tries to dig in simply
from the attempt to drag over the sod in any case.

The grass roots of the sod are what the unit is
attempting to rip through and even weed sod will
prevent this from happening and heavy clay will
make it worse.


If you want to level your lawn and do it the right
way and purchase the smallest Sicma or other
brand Italian stone burrier from Ken Sweet.

A stone burier is roto tiller with hardened vertical tines
that break the rock as it tills and buries the rock and
heavy clods of dirt at the bottom of the tilling depth
and covers it with soil all at the same time.

Further the stone burier can be used in a garden just
like a tiller as it has an open cage roller to flatten and
pack the soil down lightly for planting(which is exacty
what you want to make new sod with heavy growth.


A 36-48 inch stone burrier will do this for you
with no questions asked.

Stone buriers are used to make new lawns and till
grapevine rows in steep and flat land vineyards to
keep the weeds down and break up rocks
that are pushed up by frost heaving.


If you buy a stone burrier you will have a forever
implement that you can use to make gardens and
flower beds as well.


I Do not know the first thing about these folks but
seeing the "You tube Video" with him in the skid steer loader
promoting his grapple attachment and moving the oversized log and falling forward into the center of his drainage ditch in "What not to do with your skid steer loader" which was staged obviously as the extended boom and LARGE log fell directly into the center of the ditch-lucky for him the log was long and he avoided a side tip over when it rolled into the center of the ditch.
_________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

Where have you been Leonz? I've missed your posts or book length posts cut and pasted about the flail mower being the answer to every and I mean every need. :confused2:You been over at the other forums or sick? Your surely not leaving the flail mower is the answer for every need and going to this stone burrier thing, are you? Is this stone burrier under $1000 as I asked for no solutions over $1000? Never heard of a stone burrier but I'll research it. Have you quit selling flail mowers or stopped getting your commission/dividend for each one sold?:laughing:

Heck, if you want to smooth out an established lawn, I'd simply top dress the low spots with a mix of pete moss and top soil. You can add 1/2" a few times a year until you're happy with the results.

With the size of my yard and the size of some of the dips this probably wouldn't cost over $20,000. I've done a few loads of topsoil and the old saying of "cheap as dirt" no longer applies because dirt is no longer cheap. Hundreds of dollars a truckload and once it's spread out you wonder where it went. But is a good plan for a rich man.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Hello John Thomas,

Dont waste your money John Thomas!

Fortunately for you Steve Barlow is right on the
money with this attachment!!!!

I can tell you from experience the mechanics of
this thing will only bounce as it tries to dig in simply
from the attempt to drag over the sod in any case.

The grass roots of the sod are what the unit is
attempting to rip through and even weed sod will
prevent this from happening and heavy clay will
make it worse.


If you want to level your lawn and do it the right
way and purchase the smallest Sicma or other
brand Italian stone burrier from Ken Sweet.

A stone burier is roto tiller with hardened vertical tines
that break the rock as it tills and buries the rock and
heavy clods of dirt at the bottom of the tilling depth
and covers it with soil all at the same time.

Further the stone burier can be used in a garden just
like a tiller as it has an open cage roller to flatten and
pack the soil down lightly for planting(which is exacty
what you want to make new sod with heavy growth.


A 36-48 inch stone burrier will do this for you
with no questions asked.

Stone buriers are used to make new lawns and till
grapevine rows in steep and flat land vineyards to
keep the weeds down and break up rocks
that are pushed up by frost heaving.


If you buy a stone burrier you will have a forever
implement that you can use to make gardens and
flower beds as well.


I Do not know the first thing about these folks but
seeing the "You tube Video" with him in the skid steer loader
promoting his grapple attachment and moving the oversized log and falling forward into the center of his drainage ditch in "What not to do with your skid steer loader" which was staged obviously as the extended boom and LARGE log fell directly into the center of the ditch-lucky for him the log was long and he avoided a side tip over when it rolled into the center of the ditch.
_________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

Leonz, Leonz, Leonz. Here's a video about a stone burrier. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qamqgpY4Pu8&feature=related]stone burier rotovator - YouTube[/ame]
again you've come up with an extremely expensive off the wall answer for fixing a one time need at a reasonable price. This is as bad as you recommending a flail mower for every mowing need with the flail mower costing two to thee times what any other mower costs.You actually think this stone burrier or any stone burrier would be under $1000???

 

[wcampbell47]

I see that the current standing grass will be a problem. Looks like I'm back to the Boxblade to dig and level it, the tiller to pulverize it and then the RatchetRake to pull out the grass and then the Ferguson Overseeder to seed it. See, that's a lot of implements, which I have, to do a simple job that one piece of equipment should do, for under $1000.
Thanks each one of you for your input.:thumbsup:

I have put in several new gardens where grass existed. My tiller set to 2 inches tilling depth roots out the grass. The ratchet rake is an excellent tool (or FEL) to then push the grass out of the garden area. The last 65 by 65 area that I did produced 12 yards of old grass. The one piece equipment to do what you want to do is a pipe dream considering the amount of grass that will be displaced. It takes quite a bit of effort just to get the old grass out of the way.

Afterwards if you want a really level yard then a land plane is my tool of choice. I go behind bulk head builders with my land plane to level yards just prior to the homeowner laying sod. Levels way better than a box blade.

Tractor 3 Point Hitch Model LGB Utility Grader, Leveling Box with Angled Blades

Their $1k model is pricey. My 5' Armstrong Ag was only $650. I maintain a large parking lot with mine. After I drag it I can drive the tractor full tilt over it just like I was on pavement with a smooth ride. If you want smooth then land plane it.

 

[leonz]

Where have you been Leonz? I've missed your posts or book length posts cut and pasted about the flail mower being the answer to every and I mean every need. :confused2:You been over at the other forums or sick? Your surely not leaving the flail mower is the answer for every need and going to this stone burrier thing, are you? Is this stone burrier under $1000 as I asked for no solutions over $1000? Never heard of a stone burrier but I'll research it. Have you quit selling flail mowers or stopped getting your commission/dividend for each one sold?:laughing:


With the size of my yard and the size of some of the dips this probably wouldn't cost over $20,000. I've done a few loads of topsoil and the old saying of "cheap as dirt" no longer applies because dirt is no longer cheap. Hundreds of dollars a truckload and once it's spread out you wonder where it went. But is a good plan for a rich man.

I do not know what stone burriers retail for theses days but I can find out John Thomas.

I personally prefer flailmowers for a number of reasons pedestrian safety being the primary reason.

I do not sell flailmowers.

No the stone burrier is not the answer fror everyone and everything I simply suggested it because it does a far superior job than a forward drive standard rototiller.

The stone burrier is not an off the wall answer, a lot of GOOD landscapers use them with surestand grass seeders to make new lawns and install new lawn on old turf without straw and they are used extensively for excavation work repair on pipeline trench lines as it eliminates rocks as an issue when reseeding is done.


The only other option you really have is using your rototiller and borrowing a manure spreader to throw sand across the whole place and then level it again with your rototiller OR purchase a spinner spreader from tractor supply and fill it with sand-but borrowing a beater type manure spreader to fo the job would be faster and buying the sand you need would only be about four dollars a ton from a gravel pit plus freight from the pit.

 

[JimRB]

If you run a device that knocks off the high spots and moves that loose dirt into the low spots now you have a level 3 acres. It rains and the loose dirt settles but the high area you scraped the top off is still compacted firm dirt. Even compacting the low spots will probably not be as compacted as the undisturbed high spots. I suspect if youget your property even as possible, it will be fullof ruts after a summer of rain. I have some ditches in my yard from my geothermal trenches. I scooped up the sod once and placed some dirt and replaced the sod. It has settled again 10 years later where I either need to scrape up the sod or just filter some dirt and compost and let the bermuda grow on top of the mix.

My land has a 1-2% slope front to back. If I blast through one section of the property with the truck I get bucked. My old truck had half the mass, a shorter wheelbase, and stiffer springs and it would really buck me. I leave those eroded terraces as I hope they are slowing down erosion. I probably need to add terraces on some other parts of the property to keep the soil in place.

I have bought dirt cheap dirt at $125 for a tandum dump truck load. That load did not go very far.

So here is an idea. Get someone with a bulldozer or a loader to come out and scratch everything up. Make sure he has built golf courses before so he knows how to do it and leave you with an even enough field that you can follow up with a pulverizer to even things up even more and make for a good seed bed. He can dig those high spots deeper so they are not going to stay as high spots. Remember if your propery has any slope you need to control that runoff. Of course if you get the three foot wide rolls of sod you can cover that prepared field quickly and your erosion problems are minimized assuming that your sod is putting down roots right now. I would guess you might be able to do that for less than $50k for 3 acres. You did request ideas that would let you do things in $1k increments? Maybe get him to deliver the loader and run it one day for $1k. Pay him. Next day get him to run it for a longer day and pay him $1k. Another day of $1k. Go to the implement store one day and get a pullverizer for $1k. I made my own from scrap metal and a four pillow block bearings. Well technically not all scrap metal but still stuff in a friend's shop. Buy some seed another day and spread by a small push spreader. Rye seed was $17 a 50# bag from the farmer down the street. Probably need to spread summer grass seed in May but that seed may cost some money. Well you were looking for ideas about how to do an expensive project for cheap. ;-)