Iplayfarmer
Super Member
Chain :laughing: I get it.
How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?
- Thread starter s219
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Chain :laughing: I get it.
OP
s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 8,548
- Location
- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
Update from the OP: got my new 16' landscape trailer on Friday -- only took a week to get it from the factory due to some lucky timing. Looks real good and tows smooth as silk. I was rained out today, but hope to load up the Kubota tomorrow and transport it over to my new property. I've got more chains and straps than I need, and will play around to see what works the best to tie the tractor down. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions here.
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nunyabinis
Gold Member
Good for you. Have fun and put it to good use.
That's one heck of a comfortable work vehicle to haul the tractor around with.:laughing:
IMO If you want to haul your tractor with confidence chains and ratchet binders are the only way to go.
Straps are for lawnmowers and ATVs imho.Happy Hauling
IMO If you want to haul your tractor with confidence chains and ratchet binders are the only way to go.
Straps are for lawnmowers and ATVs imho.Happy Hauling
OP
s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
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- 8,548
- Location
- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
Yeah, the MDX is pretty comfortable -- I feel bad throwing chainsaws and gear in the back, and climbing in there with work clothes and dirty boots, but that's why I bought winter mats all around! So far it's been great and tows well.
My Kubota dealer sold me the trailer (and is watching my spending spree with humor -- I'm already asking about a post hole digger, chipper, and land plane). For tying down the tractor, he recommended chains to the rear drawbar shackle, a chain through the FEL cross-tube, and then a strap for the box blade. I have at least enough gear to do twice that, and will experiment to see how it goes.
I have done some calculations so I can ballpark tongue weight, and there's enough fore/aft room on the 16 footer to give me a lot of leeway.
My remaining concern is how the back of the trailer may dip when I drive on, and if that will lift the back of the vehicle too much. I'm working on some math for that right now -- looks like worst case the loading will give me -1358 lbs of tongue weight. The MDX rear axle carries about 1850 lbs empty, and there will be some push back from the front springs when the rear lifts, so at least I won't lift the back axle off the ground. But I want to think this through carefully.
I plan to chock vehicle and trailer tires when loading. If there is too much movement, I may have some stabilizer jacks welded to the back of the trailer, or even have braces welded to the tailgate (like I would have gotten with equipment hauler ramps). For now, I have some landscape timbers I can stack under the trailer if needed. If anyone has input on this stuff, I am all ears!
My Kubota dealer sold me the trailer (and is watching my spending spree with humor -- I'm already asking about a post hole digger, chipper, and land plane). For tying down the tractor, he recommended chains to the rear drawbar shackle, a chain through the FEL cross-tube, and then a strap for the box blade. I have at least enough gear to do twice that, and will experiment to see how it goes.
I have done some calculations so I can ballpark tongue weight, and there's enough fore/aft room on the 16 footer to give me a lot of leeway.
My remaining concern is how the back of the trailer may dip when I drive on, and if that will lift the back of the vehicle too much. I'm working on some math for that right now -- looks like worst case the loading will give me -1358 lbs of tongue weight. The MDX rear axle carries about 1850 lbs empty, and there will be some push back from the front springs when the rear lifts, so at least I won't lift the back axle off the ground. But I want to think this through carefully.
I plan to chock vehicle and trailer tires when loading. If there is too much movement, I may have some stabilizer jacks welded to the back of the trailer, or even have braces welded to the tailgate (like I would have gotten with equipment hauler ramps). For now, I have some landscape timbers I can stack under the trailer if needed. If anyone has input on this stuff, I am all ears!
OrangeToys
Platinum Member
s219 said:
I don't think that's you tongue weight. Maybe total. My 3/4hd is rated at 500lb on the tongue with factory hitch but i upgraded it.
If your little Acura can do then I'm selling my truck...but I have my doubts.
OP
s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 8,548
- Location
- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
Sorry if that wasn't clear. The actual positive tongue weight when loaded up will be 400 to 450 lbs, within the 500 lb limit of the MDX.
The -1358 lbs I referred to is the upward lift (ie, negative tongue weight) that would be applied when loading the tractor on the back of the trailer. That is a worst case scenario assuming all the tractor weight sits on the back of the trailer and then levers forward to the tongue. Obviously, that exact scenario can't happen because the tractor spreads weight over the two axles and the trailer flexes on its suspension. But it's a good back of the envelope upper limit to know and easy to compute. I am calculating that to know if I need to support the back of the trailer when loading, to prevent excessive lifting of the rear of the MDX.
I made some more measurements, and am refining the calculation a bit to get a more realistic number (which will be less severe than -1358).
The -1358 lbs I referred to is the upward lift (ie, negative tongue weight) that would be applied when loading the tractor on the back of the trailer. That is a worst case scenario assuming all the tractor weight sits on the back of the trailer and then levers forward to the tongue. Obviously, that exact scenario can't happen because the tractor spreads weight over the two axles and the trailer flexes on its suspension. But it's a good back of the envelope upper limit to know and easy to compute. I am calculating that to know if I need to support the back of the trailer when loading, to prevent excessive lifting of the rear of the MDX.
I made some more measurements, and am refining the calculation a bit to get a more realistic number (which will be less severe than -1358).
JB4310
Super Member
Yeah way to much tongue weight, you should have 10 - 15% of the total load of trailer and cargo.
500 would be high for that package IMO.
Lifting the rear of the tow vehicle is something to be concerned with.
Some ramps have stands that touch the ground or you could use jacks on the back of the trailer. But if you do nothing else, just be sure to be on level ground and maybe chock the front tires on the tow vehicle.
Looks like a real nice trailer.
JB
500 would be high for that package IMO.
Lifting the rear of the tow vehicle is something to be concerned with.
Some ramps have stands that touch the ground or you could use jacks on the back of the trailer. But if you do nothing else, just be sure to be on level ground and maybe chock the front tires on the tow vehicle.
Looks like a real nice trailer.
JB
Tie it down like its done in these pics that I took this past summer at a ATHS show in Macungie,PA.
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Samandothers
Gold Member
S219,
I too bought a Down2Earth trailer and have really enjoyed it. I pull my tractor occasionally from Charlotte NC to SW Va. Initially I had a 18 foot 10k trailer and traded up to 20 12k. I had a situation coming home where I had my L4240 with loaded back tires, FEL, and BH and lost a trailer wheel. Could have been me not having checked and retorqued the wheels as all 6 lugs sheered off but may have been trailer size. This was late in the evening on a Sunday. I called the guy, dealer I bought it from. He was great as he was an over an hour away and just finished dinner with his wife, but came to my rescue. He brought the 20' 12k trailer with him to allow me to get the tractor home over 120 miles from the location of the issue.
The bigger trailer pulled great and handled the load much better. I told the guy I'd like to keep it and make a trade. He worked with me and I am really happy with the D2E trailer. Have not had an issue since.
Enjoy your new rig hope your new home process goes well.
I too bought a Down2Earth trailer and have really enjoyed it. I pull my tractor occasionally from Charlotte NC to SW Va. Initially I had a 18 foot 10k trailer and traded up to 20 12k. I had a situation coming home where I had my L4240 with loaded back tires, FEL, and BH and lost a trailer wheel. Could have been me not having checked and retorqued the wheels as all 6 lugs sheered off but may have been trailer size. This was late in the evening on a Sunday. I called the guy, dealer I bought it from. He was great as he was an over an hour away and just finished dinner with his wife, but came to my rescue. He brought the 20' 12k trailer with him to allow me to get the tractor home over 120 miles from the location of the issue.
The bigger trailer pulled great and handled the load much better. I told the guy I'd like to keep it and make a trade. He worked with me and I am really happy with the D2E trailer. Have not had an issue since.
Enjoy your new rig hope your new home process goes well.
