336D injectors

   / 336D injectors #41  
Hey Vern looks like you are making good progress!

The carbon build up is very likely just the result of the cylinder not firing properly is all. If you are taking it into a machine shop anyway dont do anything to it other than maybe remove the pre-chambers. And thats not even an issue as long as they remember to give them back. They will vat it and grind seats and valves and you will be set.

Get ALL the seals for a valve job the machine shop will need the valve seals! Hoye will probably include them anyway but get the copper rings that go under the pre-chambers and the plastic washers that go under the injectors. (if you dont have new ones already)

I would check the liners in the mean time and make sure they are all sticking up the same about .005"-.007" (if I remember right) and get it all cleaned good, see my pic thats what I am doing there with the straight edge.

edit: The more I get to thinking Vern I am not so sure it wouldn't be in your best interests to go ahead and re-ring it while its down and really know what you've got, for the money it wont be that bad the reward may be substantial.

I probably would if it was mine fwtw just because thats me but I am just throwing that out it is a pretty simple task at this point. Getting the front drive shaft out is the only thing in the way and thats no biggy just ask us and we can tell you how to do it w/o any surprises.
 
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   / 336D injectors
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Been working out of town - Machine shop called, sounds like all the exhaust valves, guides, and seats need replacing. I am taking the parts manual with tomorrow to make sure I order everything right.

What would cause all the exhaust valves to go bad?
 
   / 336D injectors #43  
Just normal wear these dont have hardened seats either which would add longer life at least mine didnt and my seats were worn so wide they covered the whole valve.

And that equates to a seat that isnt working properly. The seat needs to be a bit over 1/2 of the valve face and be at the top 1/3rd with a margin on the chamber side to cut carbon.
 
   / 336D injectors
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I took the parts manual over to the machine shop this morning to make sure I ordered all the right parts. I do not need seats - need both exhaust and intake valves and guides and all seals. Placed the order with Hoye this morning along with all the other parts and service manual.
 
   / 336D injectors #45  
I took the parts manual over to the machine shop this morning to make sure I ordered all the right parts. I do not need seats - need both exhaust and intake valves and guides and all seals. Placed the order with Hoye this morning along with all the other parts and service manual.

Sounds like you will be back to motivating in no time at all! :thumbsup:
 
   / 336D injectors #46  
awesome Vern, you should be right back in action once the shop has the head together. Looking forward to the finshed part of the thread !!

Sure you are too .....
 
   / 336D injectors #47  
Vern,

Can you post a few pictures of the block with the head removed, so when I get around to my head removal I know what I should be shooting for? Also, did you have any issues getting the exhaust manifold off? The bolts for mine seem barely existent, let alone hex shaped.

Thanks. Can't wait to see the pictures of the before and after valves and final compression tests.
 
   / 336D injectors
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Just received the parts yesterday so dropping them off to the shop this morning. i will post some pictures of the block this evening.
 
   / 336D injectors
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Here are pictures of the block. It was pretty straight forward, did it without a manual, hope it helps. I would take off the fel - would make it a lot easier.
 

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   / 336D injectors
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Head back from the shop, looks great!! started assembly but torque wrench only goes to 70lbs need 120. I will pick one up tomorrow and have it running this weekend.
 

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