Overheating Jinma 284

[Flex4]

I hope someone can help me with my 2006 Jinma 284 that has been overheating. I have replaced the thermostat, I have also taken the radiator to a radiator shop and had it cleaned inside and out. My water pump is functioning because the water is flowing in the radiator, I don't see any oil in my radiator or my engine oil. I have no idea why it is continuing to cause my engine to overheat and spill out through the radiator overflow hose. I have noticed that the radiator fluid always foams up, no matter what type of fluid I use, I have tried Fleet Charge, and other regular radiator fluids and it always foams up and overflows. If someone has any idea on what I can check to determine my current problem I would greatly appreciate it?

Thank you,

Peter

 

[Flex4]

Just an additional note, when I had my radiator cleaned they also repaired 3 small low flow leaks that I had in the radiator.

 

[greg_g]

I think I understand your use of "overflows" to mean what happens when the engine overheats. The radiator overflow tube spews anti-freeze. But please elaborate on "foams up".

Cuz if it does that as soon as the engine starts, that's often symptomatic of a bad head gasket. The fact that you don't notice oil in the cooling system could be explained by your seemingly frequent coolant changes. If that's all it is, changing a head gasket is a relatively straightforward job. So question #2 becomes; did you retorque the head gasket at the recommended 50 hours, and again at 500 hours?

But if there's no oil in the coolant over the long term, you might be looking at a cracked block; that is, exhaust leaking into the cooling system.

Also - have you noticed any change in the engine oil level (or color) on the dipstick?

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

More likely a cracked liner or cylinder head if it's not a head gasket. To know for sure if it's either of those, I recommend using this setup. Great diagnostic tool.

Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector Kit - Toolfetch.com
Amazon.com: Combustion Leak Detector Fluid - Diesel: Automotive

You can also get it at NAPA.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree with the guys. You either have a bad head gasket, cracked head, liner, ect. I would go to HF and buy a diesel compression checker. Use it via the glow plugs or injectors and try to see which cylinder is low on compression. If that does not give you a sign try rigging up shop air via the same fittings and introduce air to the engine one cylinder at a time watching the rad for bubbles.

Chris

 

[Jinma284]

A loose fan belt will also cause it to heat quickly. Pat

 

[Diamondpilot]

A loose fan belt will also cause it to heat quickly. Pat

Good point Pat.

Chris

 

[Kernopelli]

I had this same problem with my 284. Changed thermostat, cleaned radiator, etc. with no other obvious problems. I finally relocated the battery so the radiator could get better airflow and it solved the problem immediately. Don't know if the '06 has the battery mounted in front of the radiator or lower and more to the front but if it is directly in front of the radiator you may want to update it's placement.

 

[stevem5215]

There is also one other simple thing no one has mentioned. I've seen it occur on cars quite a bit and that is to replace or test the radiator cap. They are cheap and I can't imagine that a chinese one would be of great quality anyway. The one on our FarmPro 2420 is still ok but that tractor at times has issues with getting too hot. We have to be careful with a washed out and blown dry clean radiator fins. It was a bigger issue when my brother was just using it originally as he didn't understand why it would do that even when "new" at the time. I had to explain how off road use works. Dirt and dust when cutting = plugged fins. And show him how shining a light on the backside shows the dirt plugging. Simple.

Steve - who put a new cap on his Ford 1900 when I had my "getting hot" issue. Turned out in my case the rad was extremely plugged up inside with rust and I found that chem flushing it has made a difference along with yearly antifreeze changes has gotten it working back to normal temp ranges again. And yes, Fleet charge is part of the yearly change.

 

[Flex4]

Hey Greg in response to when it overflows, it begins to foam up within seconds of starting it up. It actually overflows/boils over and through the overflow tube next to the radiator cap. My neighbor just lent me his leak-check/ combustion leak tester. I'm going to test it now and let you guys know the results.

Thank you,

Peter

 

[biggerten]

Hey Greg in response to when it overflows, it begins to foam up within seconds of starting it up. It actually overflows/boils over and through the overflow tube next to the radiator cap. My neighbor just lent me his leak-check/ combustion leak tester. I'm going to test it now and let you guys know the results.

Thank you,

Peter

My ouija board says headgasket.

 

[Flex4]

Well I tried the combustion leak test and it's inconclusive because it failed as a result of the kit leaking and the coolant forcing itself into the kit tube due to it foaming up and contaminating the color changing fluid in the kit.

What I didn't mention before was that when I first changed my coolant fluid there were some small specks of oil in the coolant. I also noticed that when I was replacing the thermostat, had removed the lower hose on the radiator and the water pump. I noticed there was also a black oil film inside the connection side of the water pump.

I also have some light grey smoke coming out of the crankcase breather, although most of that smoke disappears when it gets warmed up enough.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well I tried the combustion leak test and it's inconclusive because it failed as a result of the kit leaking and the coolant forcing itself into the kit tube due to it foaming up and contaminating the color changing fluid in the kit.

What I didn't mention before was that when I first changed my coolant fluid there were some small specks of oil in the coolant. I also noticed that when I was replacing the thermostat, had removed the lower hose on the radiator and the water pump. I noticed there was also a black oil film inside the connection side of the water pump.

I also have some light grey smoke coming out of the crankcase breather, although most of that smoke disappears when it gets warmed up enough.

This is all leaning toward a head gasket or worse.

Sorry for the bad news.

Chris

 

[Flex4]

I have never worked on a blown head gasket on a tractor but I am mechanically inclined I also do have the tools and equipment to work on vehicles. Can anyone please send me directions on the removal and installation of a head gasket? I'll need to know torque, and bolt pattern tightening procedures, along with the proper air bleeding of the fuel lines/ fuel injectors?

Thank you,

Peter

 

[Tanqwa]

Try to get hold of a coolant system pressure pump that fits in place of your rad cap, start engine and see if pressure goes up beyond normal, indicated on your rad cap, if so def combustion leak. Remove cyl head, also have it skimmed if overheated a lot.

 

[Hadley Christmas Trees]

I have a Jinma 254, heavily used for bushhog work. Always overheated. Some partial solutions.
Losing coolant out the overflow. I believe this engine needs an expansion chamber, same as all modern cars have. I mounted a waterbottle to collect the coolant. Put the overflow tube all the way to the bottom of the waterbottle. It will fill up gradually after a couple of hours. When the tractor cools off, the coolant us sucked back into the rad. That problem solved.

By the way, there is no head gasket leak or any other issue. I had the same problem of coolant loss with my Massey ferguson 1010, although no overheating problem, so water bottle was the solution.

This did not solve the overheat problem. I believe there is not enough ariflow through the radiator. Caused by the battery and the aux hydraulic oil reservoir in front of the rad. Plus the hood has small openings for air to enter. So last year I simply removed the hood altogether, and that really helped lower the engine temp. Ugly but it worked.
I am now looking for a larger fan, or better quality rad. Which so far I have not found.

As for the typical problems: the radiator must be kept extremely clean. I flush the rad out almost every day.
The Jinma and the 1010 work very hard, 150plus hours per year, at full power.

 

[greg_g]

the radiator must be kept extremely clean. I flush the rad out almost every day.

I assume you mean an exterior flush. The unfavorable battery placement also does another thing, it provides shelter for chaff/seeds/dirt. If unnoticed, they can become so compacted between the lower radiator cooling fins, that a simple spray from a garden hose can't flush them out anymore. And going to a pressure washer or air gun can actually make things worse by damaging the fins.

At a minimum, you should remove the battery and shine a light through the lower fins. If the light goes through, fine. If not, you've got more work to do. Despite regular rinsing, one of my tractors got so clogged that I had to remove the radiator to clean it off the tractor. Once clean again, it became an area that I flushed more frequently with the water hose. That - plus a coolant overflow reservoir similar to what you describe above - subsequently kept the engine at normal operating temp under even the hottest of conditions.

//greg//

 

[Jinma284]

There is also an aftermarket cage that is being sold by some dealers that moves the battery under the radiator .

Pat

 

[Diamondpilot]

I take it you have a the 2 pump setup with a steering pumps reservoir mounted up by the rad? Is there a way to move it? My tractor only has 1 pump so no second reservoir. As for the battery, mine hangs low so that the top of the battery is even with the bottom of the rad. You need to get yours lower also. I have no issues with overheating at all and work mine just like you do.

Also, change the thermostat to a quality one. It may be your factory one is not opening fully. You need a 82C one or there abouts.

Chris

 

[Affordable]

Here isa a Pic and a link of a New style battery box, that will lower your battery down

https://affordabletractorsalesco.co...picid=3539&category=ZL-20&sub_category=&scid=





Tommy
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