54 Ford NAA 3 Point Hitch Stopped Woking

[JayJay99]

Well that sounds logical. I was thinking that a clog might be one of the possibilities. That is also one of the reasons I turned up the pump flow to max, hoping to force a flow through any possible clog, but as you know that didn't work.
I think Saturday I will be able to get back to it and try your next suggestion. Thanks again,
John

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. so far you aren't getting oil from the pump.. meaning you may not be getting oil TO the pump.. yet. putting a few psi air to the dipstick for the hyds usually solves the priming issue.. at least for testing purposes.

you can also overfillt he hyds.. it normall holds about 2g.. but putting 3 in is quite safe.. there is extra space for running external cyls..

soundguy

 

[JayJay99]

Well I got back to the tractor and did what you said. I removed the plug, then removed the dipstick and put the air hose with the blower end onto the end of the opening for the hydraulics dip stick. I started up the engine and let it warm up a minute, then started blowing air down into the hydraulic reservoir. I let the air flow in for about one minute, but didn't see any oil flow in the hole where I removed the plug. I tried again and this time I let the air flow in for a bit longer. After a little bit some oil started bubbling up in the plug hole and bubbled out and overflowed a little. When it started to overflow I stopped feeding the air and the oil just reseeded back down to nothing. I did it again and nothing happened, but when I removed the air hose there was air pressure that blew back out of the dipstick hole. I tried it several times more and only one other time I saw oil come into the plug hole, but it was just bubbling slightly. Each time I stopped air came back out of the dipstick hole. I also tried to turn the flow nut on the pump to maxim in case that might help things to get flowing, but no luck. I moved the nut back out to where it was and again tried pressurizing the sump but nothing happened.
Do you think there is a blockage in the pump line or do you think it might be the pump? Seems like those are the next two suspect spots.
Oh, just to let you know, the oil in the sump is about a inch or more above the full level on the dipstick. Also this oil was changed about year and a half ago and is still very clean.
One other note. When the hydraulics was working on this 3-point hitch it always took a couple of minutes of warm-up before the arms would move up with the lever.

John >>

 

[whodat526]

i think the pump is your problem its time for a rebuild

and if so and the pump has the little cages for the balls inside of it i would leave them out you dont need them (atleast in the 2000/3000's) and if you use them and one gets bent just a little bit when reasembling it will not pump

 

[Soundguy]

next thing I'd do is remove the plumbing from the pump and make sure that the suction line is open.. which it likely is.. past that.. wd is probably correct.. rotten pump...

removing the plumbing won't hurt to check.. as if it's not that.. you'll be removignthe pump and taking the plumbing off anyway.

usually even a worn pump will prime and pickup with the air hose trick..


post back

 

[whodat526]

next thing I'd do is remove the plumbing from the pump and make sure that the suction line is open.. which it likely is.. past that.. wd is probably correct.. rotten pump...

removing the plumbing won't hurt to check.. as if it's not that.. you'll be removignthe pump and taking the plumbing off anyway.

usually even a worn pump will prime and pickup with the air hose trick..


post back

i had one 3000 that had a blowed front seal in the pump that would not prime

 

[JayJay99]

Thanks, I'll get to the next step maybe this weekend. I'm reading in the IT Shop Service book about the pump and see that there is the original vane type pump and a upgraded newer type which is a piston type pump. This book has the break down of each. I don't have any problem with the idea of rebuilding the pump, but wonder if there is all the replacement parts I might need. Probably there is a gasket/o-ring kit, but what about any parts that might be needed? Will worry about that when and if its needed.

John >>

 

[Soundguy]

vane pumps have almost 0 parts availability. some people repop the parts and they cost yer arm, leg, wife and first born to pay for.

it's usually cheaper to buy a working piston pump and use that.. and just play with the plumbing..

on the piston pump.. the stuff's available.. but there are some tricks depending on if it needs a needle bearing..e tc.

WD's right about them seals. there are a few wear parts that just completely hose the pump's ability to pump.. even if the hard parts arn't worn out.. etc.

shaft seal can be bad..e tc...

soundguy

 

[whodat526]

Thanks, I'll get to the next step maybe this weekend. I'm reading in the IT Shop Service book about the pump and see that there is the original vane type pump and a upgraded newer type which is a piston type pump. This book has the break down of each. I don't have any problem with the idea of rebuilding the pump, but wonder if there is all the replacement parts I might need. Probably there is a gasket/o-ring kit, but what about any parts that might be needed? Will worry about that when and if its needed.

John >>

yes you can get a complete rebuild kit for the pump for around 30 to 40 dollars

 

[Soundguy]

a full rebuild kit for the vane pump is for sure more than 30-40$ you must have forgot a trailing 0 on each figure!!!