High Compression
Platinum Member
When I went to the shop yesterday, I had every intention of fabricating an exhaust stack for the L5740 like 4shorts. The guy is an inspiration. But as I pondered with my parts and pieces I began to realize that 1: I'm not really sure if I want a stack 2: I'm not really sure that I want to put that much effort into something that I'm not sure that I want in the first place.
So, I switched gears and decided to K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) and while I was at it, I wanted to make it cheap, and with basic tools. Not all of us have a pipe bender, band saw, belt disc sander and a tig welder. And not all of us are close to a muffler shop. And some of us like to tinker and do things ourselves. This was relatively easy if you just take your time.
Tools used:
Cut off wheel or hacksaw
File
Air grinder
Marker
Wire welder
I have a grand total of $18.50 in this mod.
2 x 2" 90 deg elbows = $5
1 x 2" exhaust band clamp =$3.50
1 x can of high temp paint = $10.00
I started by marking the exhaust at the bottom of the panel so I knew how much room I had to hide my joint. Then removed the exhaust and used one of the elbows to mark where I needed to make the cut. Once the cut was made I loosely reinstalled the exhaust so I could start figuring out my pieces.
I decided that I wanted a cleaner look than the slip joint so I butt welded my pieces together once I figured where I wanted them. I suggest using a couple of pieces of scrap first to practice on and get you welder dialed in. Also make your joint as flush as possible with no gaps. This is where you want to take your time on the prep and weld. Tack, moving all around the pipe to control your heat so you don't burn through or distort until all of your tacks are joined.
Then I ground the joint smooth and refitted to the factory exhaust. Now, 2" is just slightly bigger than the factory exhaust, so the the clamp won't seal if you don't weld on an adapter. i.e. a piece of the 2" that I cut off an elbow. Just like before I tacked the adapter on with one exception, the 2" will slip over the factory piece making it easier to weld.
I re-purposed the factory mount by cutting it off the stock exhaust and welding it to my new piece. Finally I painted my new piece and while I was at it and had a $10 can of paint, touched up the factory piece, muffler and all. I had to remove the little shield for the lower radiator hose. I figured if something poked through the exhaust and got to the rad hose, I probably had bigger problems. When I removed the shield, there was a little rust between it and the frame, so I touched that up as well with a little Kubota dark grey. My goal of getting the soot off the FEL was met as well as, showing that with a little time and some simple tools, you can make a functional modification without breaking the bank.
My practice piece.:thumbsup:
Had to make sure the axle would clear when articulated up on that side.
Last step. Have a cold one and be proud of your work.:thumbsup:
So, I switched gears and decided to K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) and while I was at it, I wanted to make it cheap, and with basic tools. Not all of us have a pipe bender, band saw, belt disc sander and a tig welder. And not all of us are close to a muffler shop. And some of us like to tinker and do things ourselves. This was relatively easy if you just take your time.
Tools used:
Cut off wheel or hacksaw
File
Air grinder
Marker
Wire welder
I have a grand total of $18.50 in this mod.
2 x 2" 90 deg elbows = $5
1 x 2" exhaust band clamp =$3.50
1 x can of high temp paint = $10.00
I started by marking the exhaust at the bottom of the panel so I knew how much room I had to hide my joint. Then removed the exhaust and used one of the elbows to mark where I needed to make the cut. Once the cut was made I loosely reinstalled the exhaust so I could start figuring out my pieces.
I decided that I wanted a cleaner look than the slip joint so I butt welded my pieces together once I figured where I wanted them. I suggest using a couple of pieces of scrap first to practice on and get you welder dialed in. Also make your joint as flush as possible with no gaps. This is where you want to take your time on the prep and weld. Tack, moving all around the pipe to control your heat so you don't burn through or distort until all of your tacks are joined.
Then I ground the joint smooth and refitted to the factory exhaust. Now, 2" is just slightly bigger than the factory exhaust, so the the clamp won't seal if you don't weld on an adapter. i.e. a piece of the 2" that I cut off an elbow. Just like before I tacked the adapter on with one exception, the 2" will slip over the factory piece making it easier to weld.
I re-purposed the factory mount by cutting it off the stock exhaust and welding it to my new piece. Finally I painted my new piece and while I was at it and had a $10 can of paint, touched up the factory piece, muffler and all. I had to remove the little shield for the lower radiator hose. I figured if something poked through the exhaust and got to the rad hose, I probably had bigger problems. When I removed the shield, there was a little rust between it and the frame, so I touched that up as well with a little Kubota dark grey. My goal of getting the soot off the FEL was met as well as, showing that with a little time and some simple tools, you can make a functional modification without breaking the bank.
My practice piece.:thumbsup:
Had to make sure the axle would clear when articulated up on that side.
Last step. Have a cold one and be proud of your work.:thumbsup:
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