Down pressure on 3 pt?

[Soundguy]

Who's most of us?

a quote link might help us understand who / what post you are refering to???

soundguy

 

[Dogscape]

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When you have a tractor the size that most of us have

 

[magicheater]

I made one on my L4350, works pretty slick, I have to keep the 3PH lever in the down position when I use it and use the down pressure cylinder to lift. It does allow a certain amount of grader type action but the weight of the tractor has a lot to do with it. I have been meaning to do some more refining and probably will when time allows.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

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Most people on TBN have tractors that DO NOT have down pressure with their 3pt hitch. I would venture to say that less than 1/10 of 1% of the membership.

 

[ericher69]

The only tractor I've ever seen with 3pt down pressure was a Belarus.

Case made their "garden" tractors with hydraulic 3pt hitch

Worked well except when you would lift a drive wheel (2wheel drive)

Wish I had it now on b2920

 

[pacerron]

what difference would that make if he had draft control... that does not equal down pressure.. etc.. ???

I thought his purpose was to eliminate the humps in the middle of his driveway
caused by his vehicles going over a wet clay base before it dried out like concrete?
My driveway is .25 mile long with many layers of limestone of different sizes over 20 years added to the clay soil. It still gets humps as he described in the winter and spring and it too dries out like concrete in the summer. I adjust my rear blade at an angle and while it, and the tractor, are on level ground I drop the lift and draft levers all the way down then bring the draft back up just enough to hold the blade edge at ground level. A couple trips down and back gets rid of the hump and fills in the tire grooves. Then as it dries out more a couple passes with my landscsape rake brings the limestone up and evens it out. Looks like a new load after a rain washes off the clay from the stone.
It's not a perfect solution, I guess, and it takes some learning of the controls, but I have 20 years worth of that.
Most folks try to dig too deep with one pass and make a worse mess than before they started. The length of the top link is important too so the blade will dig in but not too aggressivly.
All this wouldn't matter in your Florida sand where the leveling is easy

 

[Soundguy]

i box blade mine.. good set cut to get rid of the humps and bumps.. and thendrop the load into the pits..

whatever works I guess., is good!

 

[rambler]

I thought his purpose was to eliminate the humps in the middle of his driveway
caused by his vehicles going over a wet clay base before it dried out like concrete?
My driveway is .25 mile long with many layers of limestone of different sizes over 20 years added to the clay soil. It still gets humps as he described in the winter and spring and it too dries out like concrete in the summer. I adjust my rear blade at an angle and while it, and the tractor, are on level ground I drop the lift and draft levers all the way down then bring the draft back up just enough to hold the blade edge at ground level. A couple trips down and back gets rid of the hump and fills in the tire grooves. Then as it dries out more a couple passes with my landscsape rake brings the limestone up and evens it out. Looks like a new load after a rain washes off the clay from the stone.
It's not a perfect solution, I guess, and it takes some learning of the controls, but I have 20 years worth of that.
Most folks try to dig too deep with one pass and make a worse mess than before they started. The length of the top link is important too so the blade will dig in but not too aggressivly.
All this wouldn't matter in your Florida sand where the leveling is easy

This.

Shallow pases, angled blade. Move the gravel over to the left, move the gravel over to the right. Move the gravel back to the middle. Go in the spring or whenever your ground just kinda starts to dry out. Angled blade gets rid of washboards. Straight blade or boxblade magnifies the washboards. Potholes you need to cut down the road to level of the bottom of the pothole all around, then get the gravel spread out again over the road level. Potholes like to reapear, just dumping loose gravel in the dips makes a pothole reappear.

Down pressure really isn't going to help a whole lot, angle & tilt of the blade means more.

And the last passes with a landscape rake are spot on, angled & a little on the faster side, brings the rock to the top. If I get the right day in spring here in MN, I just use the landscape rake, it cuts through the wet gravel good and levels everything up with about 5-6 rounds with the rake.

--->Paul

 

[Reg]

Depending on what you want to do, how much of it is to be done, etc.

ONE alternative might be to use a FEL Skid Steer to 3pt adapter and do what needs to be done backwards.

I have one, I use it with a sub soiler for picking at roots, then spin around and use the hoe to get the rest of the root ball out.
It is also handy when I just need to throw a rake or something on and the back ends of all available tractors have hoes or some other inconveniently large implement on them.

 

[pacerron]

This.And the last passes with a landscape rake are spot on, angled & a little on the faster side, brings the rock to the top. If I get the right day in spring here in MN, I just use the landscape rake, it cuts through the wet gravel good and levels everything up with about 5-6 rounds with the rake.--->Paul

Same here in OH. A caution to any new rake owners on stone drives/lanes...
Count your tines and note any broken ones before and after the job. You would be amazed at how hard it is to find a broken tine under stone you have just raked.. The tines on my Woods rake are black from the manufacturer as are the replacements. A cheap can of red spray paint shot on the tines makes them easier to find sometimes. It even helps in a pasture if your spreading out horse apples or cow paddies. Ron