2320 Drive Shaft U Joint blew up.

[Code54]

Glad to hear they are helping with the costs, I think it is fair also since it is out of warranty. It is nice to hear of a company doing something to help for a change. I agree it was a mistake on their part by not having it in the book but so many just use the excuse that the warranty is up and leave you with the mess. Also good the dealer is trying to help out some!

 

[BigD9]

This is the first time I've heard of this access. I've been trying to figure out how to lube mine. Just how much do you have to take off to get at this access door?

In the years past, I have removed the floor and then held the plastic out while I removed the access plate. This year I'm going to try and remove the dash, then the plastic skirt then the plate. Shoot, I may get frustrated enough to even cut a square hole from the plastic skirt large enough to access the cover. This particular joint is spinning constantly if the engine is running. It needs the maintenance probably more than the once a year I give it.

Other guys have had good luck using a needle adapter for the grease gun and holding it onto the Zerk from below. This doesn't work for me, I can even see the joint from below. Another guy removed the original Zerk and replaced it with an angled one pointing toward the engine and he says he can get to it from below.

With the floor pan removed you can see both u-joints. one picture is showing the rear joint and the other picture is looking down the shaft toward the engine at the other u-joint. I've successfully greased the u-joint once by reaching it through this tunnel, but it sire wasn't easy. That's when I found the access cover. The last picture shows the angle the u-joints are operating at. These suckers are not only spinning, but constantly twisting also.

 

[BigD9]

There are other undocumented Zerk's on this tractor also. The one below the floor on the left side brake peddle hinge or joint (near the hydraulic filter), and some have a Zerk on the power steering knuckle and some don't.

 

[ORCM]

Ok thanks. I will check it. If I see nothing in the manual I will make a note and post it in the barn.

Thanks again.

Here is the actual insert:

 

[ORCM]

Does anyone know if the U Joints are greased from the factory, or is it something the dealer does when the put the tractor together? What about the oil, and hydralic fluid?

 

[ORCM]

This is the first time I've heard of this access. I've been trying to figure out how to lube mine. Just how much do you have to take off to get at this access door?

If you take that bottom part of the dash off you can get to it. Its like 8 bolts, but the pain is to get off the cotter pins on the brake and throttle lock.

 

[JD230511]

I'm guessing your manual has this in it. Should be page 36, I think.

It's on that page. It don't say anything about the access cover, it just shows pictures from the under side of the tractor. And the greasing locations.

 

[BigD9]

Just came in from greasing that notorious Zerk. I ended up removing the floor or deck and I'm glad I did it that way. I found a mouse nest tucked away in a inaccessible hidden area. The nest was filled with Mouse Proof pellets! I use them in the building just in case one of those buggers get inside what I thought was a rodent proof pole barn.

One thing I wanted to mention is how hard it is to actually get the Zerk to take grease. It is such a tight fit, and seemingly so sensitive to how how exactly the grease gun tip is position. It is so easy to pump grease, but miss the Zerk altogether or fill the area around the outside and not get any inside the u-joint.

Well, that job is done for this year.:thumbsup:

 

[ORCM]

Just came in from greasing that notorious Zerk. I ended up removing the floor or deck and I'm glad I did it that way. I found a mouse nest tucked away in a inaccessible hidden area. The nest was filled with Mouse Proof pellets! I use them in the building just in case one of those buggers get inside what I thought was a rodent proof pole barn.

One thing I wanted to mention is how hard it is to actually get the Zerk to take grease. It is such a tight fit, and seemingly so sensitive to how how exactly the grease gun tip is position. It is so easy to pump grease, but miss the Zerk altogether or fill the area around the outside and not get any inside the u-joint.

Well, that job is done for this year.:thumbsup:

I thing I read about someone on another forum, buying an adaptor kit was helpfull. Something like this:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-58000-Lube-Adapter/dp/B000OCKJW8]Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 58000 Lube Adapter Kit: Home Improvement[/ame]

 

[bill1369]

I bought that exact adaptor kit. Didn't really help me much I was trying to go from the bottom.

I HAVE to go from underneath because I have a Curtis Hard Cab installed on my 2320. Which means taking the floor/dash off is not possible unless I take the cab off. The cab is not meant to come off

I have been toying with the idea of cutting a whole in my floor/dash and making my own access door.

Getting to these Zerks is quite difficult.

 

[toolbox5]

Those unmentioned zerks are probably the ones mentioned in my 3120 manual that aren't there , just a thought :confused2:

 

[Dale1995]

I also am in the same situation as bill1369, with the Curtis cab its impossible to get to that front zerk without tearing half the tractor apart. I am also thinking of making some kind of access hole to get to these areas quickly so its not a pain to get to. I am trying to find some type of auto body plugs that I could plug the hole that I cut with a hole saw. I am also thinking of using a rubber snowmobile clutch cover, that is used to access the clutch bolt on snowmobiles. I want it to look professional and not look like some hick decided to hack a hole in his tractor. If any of you have any ideals please post them, I am open to all suggestions

 

[BigD9]

You can see the u-joint from below without taking the entire tractor apart. I know of one guy who had JD turn the u-joint around so the Zerk was pointing toward the engine and he says he can get to his that way.

 

[ORCM]

Dealer called me and said they were done replacing the shaft. Good news is that the service guy was thinking of an older model tractor, the 2320 has that access door on the right side and makes it way easier to remove/install (Which i was wondering, it looked like you could take 3 bolts out, and the yoke would come right off.) . Total labor was only 2hrs, so I got out of this one pretty cheap!:thumbsup:

I'm interested to see how this new shafts zerk is positioned, the service guy say you sould be able to grease it from the bottom.

 

[ORCM]

Those unmentioned zerks are probably the ones mentioned in my 3120 manual that aren't there , just a thought :confused2:

Maybe there on 3320/or above...

 

[ORCM]

Got my tractor back, and runs like a champ! I wanted to give credit where credit is due. Deere step up to the plate and covered the part 100% almost 3 years out of warranty!:thumbsup: Also my dealer stepped up to the plate, and went to bat for me with Deere. Here's their link, if you羆*e in the area give them an opportunity to give you a price. STIHL, John Deere, Echo, Shindaiwa, Honda, TORO, Mantis, Troy Bilt: Stark Street has them all!

Okay, now I'm off to go rebuit my Power Flow unit..

 

[BigD9]

Way to go! I'm glad for you. Kind of makes you smile when things go right :thumbsup: doesn't it?

 

[Victory Pete]

I am glad you are back in action. My head is spinning from reading this and similiar threads. My 2320 was made last September. The manual shows two U-joints to grease. I was under there today and could easily see and grease the tranny side. I could just barely see the front one and after spinning the engine a few times was not able to see a zerk. What is your advice to me.
Thanks alot

VP

 

[Rob-D]

ORCM you must have an older 2320 (2006?), JD updated the shaft on later models. I'll bet you have the 5/8" dia shaft, the new ones are much heavier.

When I had my 2320 the shaft took out the front axle input shaft. Deere designs well and they know these things can happen so the input shaft is short and relatively easy to replace.
Rob

 

[Victory Pete]

ORCM you must have an older 2320 (2006?), JD updated the shaft on later models. I'll bet you have the 5/8" dia shaft, the new ones are much heavier.

When I had my 2320 the shaft took out the front axle input shaft. Deere designs well and they know these things can happen so the input shaft is short and relatively easy to replace.
Rob

5/8" shaft really? How can that be? I was just looking at mine and it appears much bigger than that. What exactly happened to your 2320?
I was trying to see if there was a zerk on my front u-joint and it appears to not have one. The u-joint in the front is also much smaller than the one on the tranny (Which does have a zerk)

VP