etcallhome
Platinum Member
ORCM got hear you got tractor back ,and better to hear JD took care of the bill.
2320 Drive Shaft U Joint blew up.
- Thread starter ORCM
- Start date
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Victory Pete
Silver Member
Well, I got under there again with an inspection mirror and little Maglight, yep there is a zerk pointing backwards. I think I am going to call JD tomorrow to see what they have to say about this.
VP
Victory Pete
Silver Member
BigD9
Silver Member
Look from below and see if there is an access plate located on the right side. If so you can get to that joint through there. There may also be a access hole on the left side you may be able to use depending on the angle of that Zerk. Problem is both of these access points require the lower skirt be removed, which can't be done unless either the dash is removed or the floor is removed.
I've thought about cutting a hole in the plastic skirt right where the access plate is located, but haven't done it so far.
Victory Pete
Silver Member
Yes I saw the access plate on the right side. I dont want to get into taking the floor apart if I can help it. It seems easy enough to rmove the hump. So why doesnt a big famous company like Deere think of these things?
VP
BigD9
Silver Member
Mother Deere knows best is the only answer to your question I can think of. Gotta remember, for years the dealers were telling us that joint didn't need to be greased. We were told everything from that was just a production Zerk and the joint was actually lifetime greased and sealed, to "what Zerk?".
It seems like a good idea to provide access to that joint, but as to why they don't, is the million dollar question. My best guess is they just didn't think of it when the tractor was originally designed, and no one has seen fit to authorize the change in manufacturing process yet. Maybe someday, my friend, maybe someday.
It seems like a good idea to provide access to that joint, but as to why they don't, is the million dollar question. My best guess is they just didn't think of it when the tractor was originally designed, and no one has seen fit to authorize the change in manufacturing process yet. Maybe someday, my friend, maybe someday.
Yours is bigger because JD corrected the problem, I'll bet the new shafts don't twist.
My shaft broke off the tractor when I was coming back from a neighbors after plowing him out from a storm. I was doing about 10mph coming down an incline when it blew. The shaft twisted and took out the front blower drive shaft too. My dealer took care of it at no cost to me. I examined the shaft and all I could find was a slight binding in one of the 'U' joints. The tractor was a 2006, 2320. I have not checked my 3320 drive shaft.
I suspect two problems that caused the failure. One the 'U' joint had a slight bind and two the shaft was not in complete balance.
Think about what happens:
The joint binds slightly and as it does it changes the center of gravity of the shaft because the front spline floats to a degree. That is, you can't have a shaft that is locked at both ends, you need some play to keep things from jamming the input shafts and for normal movement of the front axle and the tranny as the two are not butted to each other. So when the joint binds it pulls the shaft towards it and off center. If you are spinning that shaft relatively fast it throws the center of gravity off and if the shaft is not robust enough it bends and the more it bends the worse it gets to the point of failure. Remember also that the shaft spins a lot faster than the tires.
Hope this helps,
Rob
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Yeah, they should have made the engine side sealed bearings. I was changing the oil on mine, and inspected the new shaft to make sure it look like it was greased. Like you said you can see the front of the shaft, but getting the gun in there to grease it is mighty feat.:confused2: It almost might be easier to use the access plate on the right side, but you have to pull part of the dash apart. I think someone said that it might be easier to pull the floor board.
I think if you look back in the post, there are some links for instruction/pic's on accessing.
Victory Pete
Silver Member
Eureka! The $%#@*&% front U-Joint is lubed! I attempted to lift the floorboard, after I had all the screws, pedals and knobs off it wouldnt clear the plastic shroud so I started messing with that, got it loose enough to expose the side panel. I held it open with some old jeans, I tie wrapped the connector that was dangling in the way. I looked in and saw the "Jerk". I attempted to use my standard grease gun and tip, it made a mess. I had lunch and calmed down a bit, boy was I cussing out Deere! They are going to hear from me tomorrow whether it will matter or not we will see. So I went to Tractor Supply and they had 2 kinds of grease adapters. a needle adapter and one with a bigger hole, that is the one I got. I tried it and again a big mess, the Jerk is in there at a %%$#&*angle, so I bent an angle to the adapter, worked great. I have some pictures, you can see a before and after picture of the grease on the u-joint. I hope this helps others as you guys have helped me. I think next time I wont take the floor apart, I dont think it helped at all, I just have to take apart the plastic shroud or try from underneath with the special grease adapter, although maybe now I have the wrong angle on the adapter, I may have to get another one. What about the poor souls that put 50 hours on their 2320 in say a month or even worse a week!
VP
VP
