Now Martian did it!

[GreatWhitehunter]

There are several 3000 series at a local dealer that have alot(imho) of hrs on them. The dealers are not giving them away but being able to finance through deere credit is a big plus for potential buyers.

Matt

 

[AKfish]

I'm going to price a replacement hood,fender and timing bar and go from there.

The 110 seems kind of large to be in the woods with, I've got some hunting/vaca land that I'm planning on improving so the 110 would shine there but it I still feel the 3320 is alot better fit around my house. Since I can't keep both I guess I just gotta go with it.

I'm struggling to price out my 3320 and attachments at this point also.
The machine is garaged and in very good condition, has 448 hoe, 4in1 bucket,root grapple,rock bucket,snow plow, box blade, 60 brush bull, pallet forks and I could be talked into selling my harley rake. I'm thinking 26K seems like a fair place to start. Only 365 hrs, I've looked a the local dealers and feel like I'm a fair bit lower than they are.

Thoughts?

Matt

Matt;

You're gonna fall over when you see the cost of those pieces/parts!! Hood and fender... whoa.

I really love my 110 in the woods! With the eHydro, split brakes, and even switching the hoe from side to side to crawl around trees, etc. you'll be very surprised how well you can get around! And it's heavy enough that just a bit of pedal... and it'll just inch thru stuff!

Am I the only one who hangs onto attachments from one tractor "upgrade" to the next tractor? Won't a few of your "goodies" work really well on the 110, too?

AKfish

 

[AKfish]

Oh yeah... wanted to mention how well the thumb works as a "one step" tree killer!! Thing of beauty for clearing small trees - brush! :thumbsup:

No chain sawing, no climbing on and off the tractor, no cutting the tree down and then digging the stump out... I know that the root system on trees up here is considerably different than your trees - but, for trees up to 6" - I just rip the roots up on 2-3 sides of the stump (standing tree) and clasp the whole tree about a foot above the ground and pull the whole thing up and stack it off to the side for grapple work later.

Very quick and no back-killing grunt work with the chain saw! Same with willows, wild roses, alders, - grab and go.

You'll wonder how you managed to clear brush without it!

AKfish

 

[Martian]

There are several 3000 series at a local dealer that have alot(imho) of hrs on them. The dealers are not giving them away but being able to finance through deere credit is a big plus for potential buyers.

Matt

What may benefit you is selling your tractor through a dealer. I bought my 110 though Triple W equipment, although it was sold privately by the original owner. Although I paid cash, I could have financed if I wanted to and took advantage of all the resources of the dealer. The only issue for you is, with doing that same thing, the dealer takes part of the sale price, which I couldn't tell you exactly what it is. Just another option.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Matt;

You're gonna fall over when you see the cost of those pieces/parts!! Hood and fender... whoa.

I really love my 110 in the woods! With the eHydro, split brakes, and even switching the hoe from side to side to crawl around trees, etc. you'll be very surprised how well you can get around! And it's heavy enough that just a bit of pedal... and it'll just inch thru stuff!

Am I the only one who hangs onto attachments from one tractor "upgrade" to the next tractor? Won't a few of your "goodies" work really well on the 110, too?

AKfish

AK, if I could keep the implements I would. But my boxblade with be too small, and all the loader attachments are the JD quick attach setup not the SS carrier. I suppose I could use my 60" brush hog and the harley rake would also work. But I rarely use the hog and I'm pretty much done with the harley. I am keeping my PHD and Imatch for sure. I definatly pick up a hydralic box blade and a york rake also. Pallet forks will also be replaced as well as the grapple. The 4in1 is nice but don't know if I'd spend the money again. The rock bucket is super handy but I'll just keep my eye's peeled for a used unit.

I'm sure the hood and fender will be spendy. I replaced the hood on the 3320 and the list was $700 yikes.

Matt

 

[AKfish]

The 4n1, forks, grapple can all be modded out for the SS. I've seen the weld on SS faceplate for around $100 or so. Of course, you'll need to cut the old JD attachment hardware off.

AKfish

Don't know how HD those attachments are tho.. might not stand up to the 110 loader!

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

The 4n1, forks, grapple can all be modded out for the SS. I've seen the weld on SS faceplate for around $100 or so. Of course, you'll need to cut the old JD attachment hardware off.

AKfish

Don't know how HD those attachments are tho.. might not stand up to the 110 loader!

The 4in1 is 60" the forks rated for 2klbs and the grapple is only 48" so really no good reason to modify them.

Matt

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I looked on jd parts and it list the hood and fender for about $1200 for both, so not as bad as I expected. Has anyone heard of the 3pt hitch for the 110 being offered in cat 2? There's a set on CL and the seller insists they're off a 110 tlb and cat 2. My dealer said he'd never seen it but I figure maybe someone here might have.

Matt

 

[Martian]

I looked on jd parts and it list the hood and fender for about $1200 for both, so not as bad as I expected. Has anyone heard of the 3pt hitch for the 110 being offered in cat 2? There's a set on CL and the seller insists they're off a 110 tlb and cat 2. My dealer said he'd never seen it but I figure maybe someone here might have.

Matt

My guess is he just doesn't know what cat 2 means. Unless its an aftermarket kit, I don't believe Deere ever made one. It's considered a CUT, so should be cat 1. You don't see cat 2 on Deere till the 5000 series.

 

[two_bit_score]

Oh yeah... wanted to mention how well the thumb works as a "one step" tree killer!! Thing of beauty for clearing small trees - brush! :thumbsup:

No chain sawing, no climbing on and off the tractor, no cutting the tree down and then digging the stump out... I know that the root system on trees up here is considerably different than your trees - but, for trees up to 6" - I just rip the roots up on 2-3 sides of the stump (standing tree) and clasp the whole tree about a foot above the ground and pull the whole thing up and stack it off to the side for grapple work later.

Very quick and no back-killing grunt work with the chain saw! Same with willows, wild roses, alders, - grab and go.

You'll wonder how you managed to clear brush without it!

AKfish

Ain't that the truth! :thumbsup:



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