YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

[5030]

I was asked for a few tips so I provided my method that works for me so use some or not its you guys prerogative you got what you paid for. :thumbsup:

Also I have a drill doctor and really dont like how it works on small bits so on the size studs I run into me sharpening my bits rather than buy new makes no sense new works good my sharpening ability on small ones is lacking.

btw 5030 can you provide a link I dont know what that is? "Get yourself a couple Die Reclaim drills from solid micrograin tungsten carbide."

MSC Industrial Supply will have them. Production Tool, any machine shop tooling supply house will. MA Ford don't sell direct, I don't believe. Cleveland Twist also offers them I believe. I have MA Ford myself. Be apprised, they aren't cheap. A single small diameter drill (1/8") can cost upwards of 40 bucks, however, with proper care, it will last a lifetime and will drill out or provide a hole to use an easy out in anything hard like broken taps broke off below the surface.

Because they are Tungsten Carbide, they are brittle so drilling out something hard requires a guide or drill press. They won't take a wobbling hand drill motor...and plenty of water for lubrication.

I use them all the time for 'mistakes'. Saved my bacone on almost finished jobs where a broken tap means scrap can. They work fantastic on the work hard studs on the Caretpillar 3406 engines.

Just Goggle up 'Die Reclaim Drills'.

You can sharpen the little ones (HSS drills) with the addition of some headgear magnifiers......What I do.

Darex (the makers of the 'Drill Doctor), produces some very good drill sharpeners and tool sharpeners (end mill), but the average Joe can't afford them. They are high precision tools with a very high precision price in the 5-10 thousand range....

 

[Car Doc]

Alright thanks!

I did not know about that brand etc will certainly keep it in mind I learn something new every day on here. Yeah precision quality stuff is high I try to only use good stuff but there are limits. :thumbsup:

edit: Actually now I think about the rescue bits may be made out of tungsten they are capable of drilling taps and bits and is why I mentioned them. (wasn't aware of those you said) Seem to think my 1/8 and 1/4 bits came to about $80-100 for the pair if I remember right and they are monsters like I said they flat chew stuff up.

 

[5030]

They may be, in fact Tungsten Carbide. The easiest way to tell is, if they are straight flute, in other words, the cutting edge in relationship to the lands are vertical with no twist (sort of like a wood spade drill), then they are carbide. If a conventional spiral flute, then they aren't.

Die reclaim drills will always specify water or a water dilluted EP lubricant for cooling (at the cutting edge) and chip removal, always.

Micrograin Tungsten Carbide is pressed under extreme pressure and heat to form a shape, then the cutting edge is sharpened whereas, HSS and it's derivitaves like M42 Cobalt are actually blanks that are heat formed and machined. All the fancy names are nothing more than specific alloys and the Tin and TiAn and Steam Coatings are nothing more (than very thin coatings)..... Just plasma sprayed on surface material to aid in chip flow and cutting edge lubrication.

The addition of a good quality boundary lubricating cutting compound does the same thing with ordinary HSS bright finish (uncoated) drills. The gold coating looks appealing to the consumer but in actuality, provides little benefit. However, retailers know that gold attracts buyers, so why not.

 

[Car Doc]

Yup they are carbide by your definition. They also have a spiral going down the side its real shallow though. They say you can mill with that surface and I dont doubt it a bit :laughing: they chew things sideways as well as drill.

What I mean by that is say you drilling a 1/8 hole inside a larger hole like a bolt is below flush if the bit gets off center it will make a 3/8 hole out of what you are drilling in a heartbeat running around the inside the hole. you use these with die grinders btw.

edit: Found this if anyone is interested...[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvOfUvzgmEA[/ame]

 

[KubotainNH]

There's some good info here on drilling. I resharpen mine sometimes but didn't know the name for it, had to google "offhand sharpen twist drills" only to realize that's what I do. So, any tips on getting a hole drilled right in the center of a stud? I often drift off some and once that first small hole is drilled it's not so easy to get it straightened. Those Safety Drill things look pretty cool, maybe I'll have to ask for one for fathers day.

 

[Domush]

Not to get us back on topic, but I took the head off today

On to the photos and video:

First look at the head gasket (which happened to stick to the head)

Head gasket remnants on the block

Cyl #1

Cyl #2

Cyl #3

#1

#2

#3

#1 (the only old cylinder liner)

#2

#3

#2 cyl is definitely where the head gasket blew. I'm guessing there is too much of a warp in the head for a solid seal. The center of the head measured as a .004" dip with my crappy straight edge, but who knows. I'll get it machined proper this time.

Also I removed the injectors and tested them on the tractor and they have great spray (all three). #3 may be a little weaker than the other two, but overall much better than I was expecting after 30 years.

Here is the injector test video:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcKeSmdq6pc]Yanmar YM336D Injector test - YouTube[/ame]

It should be noted, the new head gasket looks quite a bit lower in quality than the OEM head gasket, which had copper rings around all inlets. The new one had non, just gasket padding. I'm a little disappointed considering the high price of it. I was expecting an OEM gasket or at least OEM specs.

Tomorrow I'll check the piston height on all 3 cyl's to test for a bent rod. I did notice #2 sticks above the cyl liner a tiny bit when near TDC. We'll see if the others match tomorrow. As for the cyl liners, they are nearly flush with the block. I'll get exact measurements for that tomorrow as well.

 

[Car Doc]

There's some good info here on drilling. I resharpen mine sometimes but didn't know the name for it, had to google "offhand sharpen twist drills" only to realize that's what I do. So, any tips on getting a hole drilled right in the center of a stud? I often drift off some and once that first small hole is drilled it's not so easy to get it straightened. Those Safety Drill things look pretty cool, maybe I'll have to ask for one for fathers day.

Takes a carefully placed center punch and/or a 135 degree split point bit, both is the best and a sharp one (my comment on new bits) that will start you drilling on a round surface even. :thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

Domush,

No man not now this thread is so far out in the ozone now why mess it up with the original topic. :laughing:

Facts as I see them-gasket at #2 is bad in the same spot it was the first time. The cylinder is still not firing based on the lack carbon created by the pre-chamber shadow on the piston.#1 and #2 is still missing meaning its not firing as well as 3 based on the carbon build up 3 is the only one tying its bales. The injectors look awesome great news!!!

We need to know what the pistons look like at TDC measure them with feeler gages using the deck as base not the liner tops and a dial indicator if you have one a real good eye ball will suffice on exactly what TDC end up at. After that I will help but I am sure I dont know what I am doing yet.

Oh and the gaskets are from china I am almost positive imagine that.

 

[kenmac]

Oh and the gaskets are from china I am almost positive imagine that.

I wonder if you can get an OEM head gasket. If so. you could check with 1 danny http://www.peq.com/ . He's a yanmar dealer & is able to get oem parts. I have bought parts from him

 

[Car Doc]

Don't know? I swear my gasket I got from Hoye's had the little gold china sticker on it and I said to myself thats just great put a zipper on this engine.