Ford 3600 CAV injection pump

[jltrent]

Today I took the top off the pump and put new o-rings on the throttle and kill switch shaft. It ran perfect before this. After I put it back together I can't get it to start. It is getting fuel to the pump (Bleed the air) (almost new fuel filter), but when I take the injector lines off at the injectors there isn't any fuel being pumped out. Did I not put it back together right or what I can't figure it out. It seemed not that complicated. Thanks for any help.

 

[DieselMonk]

that's because the pump itself is air locked. give it full throttle and open up the injector pump bleeder screw until diesel comes out without any air bubbles. Then close it, don't forget to turn the throttle down and it should start up.

 

[jltrent]

that's because the pump itself is air locked. give it full throttle and open up the injector pump bleeder screw until diesel comes out without any air bubbles. Then close it, don't forget to turn the throttle down and it should start up.

I did crank until diesel fuel poured out of the side of the pump were the bleeder is at and then put the bolt back in. Still after this no fuel to the top of the injector lines.

 

[gengine]

Loosen the fitting on top of one of the injectors. Easy to start at one end and work to the other. I usually start with the one at the "end" of the system. Then crank until you get fuel out. You should have some fuel leaking out within 30 seconds. Don't take it all the way off, just loose about a turn and a half. If you get fuel and no start, then go to the next one. When you get fuel there, go to the next. It should start with the first one, but sometimes it takes all three.

 

[DieselMonk]

as gengine said: crack the injector line at the injector and do one by one while cranking.

 

[jltrent]

Loosen the fitting on top of one of the injectors. Easy to start at one end and work to the other. I usually start with the one at the "end" of the system. Then crank until you get fuel out. You should have some fuel leaking out within 30 seconds. Don't take it all the way off, just loose about a turn and a half. If you get fuel and no start, then go to the next one. When you get fuel there, go to the next. It should start with the first one, but sometimes it takes all three.

I have took all three lines off the injector and cranked for probably 2-3 minutes and nothing. It ran perfect before I took the top off and put O-rings on the shafts. I tried to keep all dirt out also, but a small chip of paint, it is not impossible to have got in there, but in my opinion it should start and clog up latter if that was the fact. Every time i touch a pump it is misery. There is fuel getting to the plastic lines on top of the injectors.

 

[whodat526]

what it sounds like it the kill rod is not correctly seat inside the pump from when you took the top cover off you must aling a dowel on the kill shaft inside a slot on the kill rod inside the top cover

 

[jltrent]

what it sounds like it the kill rod is not correctly seat inside the pump from when you took the top cover off you must aling a dowel on the kill shaft inside a slot on the kill rod inside the top cover

You maybe on to something . I did take the cover off again and try to make sure this was lined up right, but still not sure if it is right. I put the spring in the second hole at about the middle of the pump and on the back of the pump I wasn't 100% sure which hole so I put it in the second hole as I didn't notice the holes until I had the spring off.


http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/CAV DPA Pump Rebuild Manual.pdf

 

[gengine]

Those springs are pretty specific to which holes they go in. If you take the cover off again, you should be able to see wear marks where the spring should go. The spring is your governor spring, and that pump is on a whole lot of different motors and tractors, so there are options with the governor spring for different fuel demands.

 

[jltrent]

When you pull the kill switch the kill rod in the pump should move forward toward the back of the pump (toward seated driver)? I took the top off again (it was full of diesel fuel) and checked to make sure I had the end in the slot.

I am not 100% sure the spring in the pump toward the front of the pump (closest to the radiator) goes in the second hole, but it should still run if this is not correct just not run right? If I can't get the pump going would it be better to get this pump serviced or buy one of these? When cranked fuel pours out bleed hole on pump, but can't get it to go to the top of the injector pipes at the injectors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110640435724?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_556wt_698

The tractor is in good shape with the original paint still on the hood as it has always been shed stored. Last few years put diesel additive in it and maintained like it should be. Bought the tractor new 2/22/77 and it has 4200 hours on it. Starts easy and everything works on it with no leaks except the throttle diesel shaft which I am trying to fix.

By jltrent at 2012-04-01[/img]

 

[DieselMonk]

Yeah... thats a bummer if the injector pump is not 100% assembled correctly. If you can't get it back 100%, I'd get it serviced.
With complicated things, I learned to snap pictures, that way I know how things go back together correctly.

 

[jltrent]

Looked at the pump again. Cranked the tractor a few times and I found a leak on one of the hard plastic hoses on top of the injector. I must have done this when I loosen it from the injector. Crank the tractor a few seconds and it will wet you fingers to rub it off and for sure not at the injector were it goes on. Could this be the problem? I will replace as soon as possible. It will be a cold day in _____ before I mess with one of these pumps again. The last time I worked on one of these pump I had a heck of a time also. I will pay somebody if I can find them.

 

[whodat526]

if it was running good before you started and now cant get any fuel out of the injector lines it will be the kill lever the problem the other spring is for the govenor and that has nothing to do with the fuel getting to the injectors just the amount of fuel. make sure the pin on the kill rod is in the little slot on the kill lever inside the pump

 

[jltrent]

Wonder what the hard plastic hoses are called that goes across the top of the injectors? Trying to look them up with no luck.

Yes, the tractor started easy and ran good. Just ran it approximately 8 hours one day last week putting on fertilizer at high rpms to spread the fertilizer good (that was when I noticed the fuel leak). I may take the kill lever out of it just to try and see if this is the problem and kill it in 8th gear by pooping the clutch if I can get it started.

 

[whodat526]

Wonder what the hard plastic hoses are called that goes across the top of the injectors? Trying to look them up with no luck.

Yes, the tractor started easy and ran good. Just ran it approximately 8 hours one day last week putting on fertilizer at high rpms to spread the fertilizer good (that was when I noticed the fuel leak). I may take the kill lever out of it just to try and see if this is the problem and kill it in 8th gear by pooping the clutch if I can get it started.

the hoses that run from injector to injector or a leak off line for the injectors also a return to the tank they or 3/16 hose

 

[Ultradog MN]

Maybe when you put the top cover back on you didn't get the little slide back in correctly. It's pinched of misplaced.

 

[DieselMonk]

Wonder what the hard plastic hoses are called that goes across the top of the injectors? Trying to look them up with no luck.

Yes, the tractor started easy and ran good. Just ran it approximately 8 hours one day last week putting on fertilizer at high rpms to spread the fertilizer good (that was when I noticed the fuel leak). I may take the kill lever out of it just to try and see if this is the problem and kill it in 8th gear by pooping the clutch if I can get it started.

That's a fuel return line. There isn not much fuel ressure on it. You can have these leaking and the tractor still will start. So that isn't it. Just another thing to fix.

 

[Ultradog MN]

As whodat says they can be easily replaced with 3/16" fuel line.
The little clamps are available from any good hardware store - in those rows of miscelaneous hardware boxes. They are inexpensive and look/work better than worm drive clamps.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. don't worry about the leak off lines. they just dump fuel back to the tank anyway. what you need to do is make sure the fuel kil doesn't have the rack shut down and starved.

soundguy

 

[jltrent]

Went to the Ford/NH dealership and the head mechanic that has been there I know since the 70's told me in about 5 seconds what was wrong. He said he had done it several times and it is easy to do. Check the top of the throttle shaft on top of the cap were the spring goes on and you will think it is in place, but it want be. He said it want start back up until you have it in the slot. He said to back it up counterclockwise a little and it will fall right into the slot and then put the lock nut on. I got home and in about 15 minutes had it going. Thanks everybody for the help.