Ford 3600 CAV injection pump

[casmith]

Do you want to sell this tractor?

When you pull the kill switch the kill rod in the pump should move forward toward the back of the pump (toward seated driver)? I took the top off again (it was full of diesel fuel) and checked to make sure I had the end in the slot.

I am not 100% sure the spring in the pump toward the front of the pump (closest to the radiator) goes in the second hole, but it should still run if this is not correct just not run right? If I can't get the pump going would it be better to get this pump serviced or buy one of these? When cranked fuel pours out bleed hole on pump, but can't get it to go to the top of the injector pipes at the injectors.

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The tractor is in good shape with the original paint still on the hood as it has always been shed stored. Last few years put diesel additive in it and maintained like it should be. Bought the tractor new 2/22/77 and it has 4200 hours on it. Starts easy and everything works on it with no leaks except the throttle diesel shaft which I am trying to fix.

By jltrent at 2012-04-01[/img]

 

[limnicky]

Went to the Ford/NH dealership and the head mechanic that has been there I know since the 70's told me in about 5 seconds what was wrong. He said he had done it several times and it is easy to do. Check the top of the throttle shaft on top of the cap were the spring goes on and you will think it is in place, but it want be. He said it want start back up until you have it in the slot. He said to back it up counterclockwise a little and it will fall right into the slot and then put the lock nut on. I got home and in about 15 minutes had it going. Thanks everybody for the help.

I joined this forum today just to reply this post. Thanks, it solved the exact same problem I faced after replacing the o-rings on the throttle and shut off shafts?I was baffled by the lack of fuel to the injectors and depressed at the thought of having to send $600 on a new pump. After reading this post I went outside and just as you, I had it running in 15 minutes...Thanks again!

 

[CrosbyFamilyFarm]

This is the greatest piece of advice that I have seen absolutely nowhere else. The second I did this my 3550 fired right up (CAV model 3233F440). Unreal that this isn't anywhere else I've looked. I've been dinking with this fuel pump for a week now. Thanks everyone!

 

[MikeAC]

I know this is an old post but i have the exact same problem. Can someone tell me where the slot is? Is it on the top of the injector pump or is it on the throttle shaft??

 

[TractorTech]

I know this is an old post but i have the exact same problem. Can someone tell me where the slot is? Is it on the top of the injector pump or is it on the throttle shaft??

Under the cover, RH side of the pump looking forward on the tractor is a flat plate with a hook toward the front. The dowel/nub of the shutoff shaft has to fit into the slot or hook.

 

[MikeAC]

Yes, i took it apart and checked that part where the slot is inside of the pump from the kill switch. It was in the hole and slid with the part.
They seem to reference the throttle shaft where the spring goes on to the left of the pump as you are looking at the pump.
I guess i can take it apart and check that the dowel is in the slot again

 

[TractorTech]

Yes, i took it apart and checked that part where the slot is inside of the pump from the kill switch. It was in the hole and slid with the part.
They seem to reference the throttle shaft where the spring goes on to the left of the pump as you are looking at the pump.
I guess i can take it apart and check that the dowel is in the slot again

The throttle mechanism sprnig goes in the 2nd hole on either side

 

[MikeAC]

I re watched a youtube video and yes , there is a slot on the throttle shaft so maybe the spring is supposed to engage the slot on the top of the throttle shaft before the tractor will start? i will keep you posted!

 

[TractorTech]

I don’t follow what you are talking about. The spring goes in the middle hole on the button on the throttle plate. The other end goes through the middle hole on the throttle shaft tab that pivots. Make sure the tab is able to swing around to lineup with the spring.

The throttle arm on top of the pump is keyed to match the throttle shaft. If the shaft is not pulled all the way up, the arm will not engage into the shaft.

 

[MikeAC]

The throttle arm on top of the pump is keyed to match the throttle shaft. If the shaft is not pulled all the way up, the arm will not engage into the shaft.

This is the part I am talking about

 

[TractorTech]

The throttle arm on top of the pump is keyed to match the throttle shaft. If the shaft is not pulled all the way up, the arm will not engage into the shaft.

This is the part I am talking about

Right, this is correct.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Went to the Ford/NH dealership and the head mechanic that has been there I know since the 70's told me in about 5 seconds what was wrong. He said he had done it several times and it is easy to do. Check the top of the throttle shaft on top of the cap were the spring goes on and you will think it is in place, but it want be. He said it want start back up until you have it in the slot. He said to back it up counterclockwise a little and it will fall right into the slot and then put the lock nut on. I got home and in about 15 minutes had it going. Thanks everybody for the help.

Great recovery

Our 2500 hour 1980 3600 injector pump would drip some and my shop sent it to Boot Hill Diesel for new seals and testing. It was out of spec but still started and ran fine. We went back with a full rebuild. Their charge was $1100.
I am happy since due to health my shop owner is slowing down and has dropped commercial accounts and sold his service truck. On my old stuff were it's one day or one year to get it done is not a big hairy deal

 

[MikeAC]

I don’t think i assembled the top of the throttle shaft correctly. I checked before and after pictures and the lock screw does not screw down as far on my reassembly. Also noted a notch on the front of the set of washers where a wire engages a groove on the throttle arm? Sorry for the confusion these are actually a set of washers and not a spring. Two before and two after pictures enclosed , as best as i could get on the after pictures with the sun

 

[thepumpguysc]

The throttle shaft is obviously broken in the 1st pic.??
U HAVE TO remove the linkage from the lever.!!
Did u replace the shaft.??
What p# did u get.?

 

[MikeAC]

First picture is after i first removed the locknut and washer, the shaft was not broken and was not replaced

Please tell me what part you refer to as the linkage and which part is the lever, sorry I’m a novice at this
Thanks

 

[thepumpguysc]

The linkage is the steel shaft with the bend in it that fits into the hole in the lever..
It’s got a clip on it to hold the linkage shaft onto the lever.
It’s 100x easier to get everything put back together if u remove the clip and the lever..& push the linkage outta your way..

I’m guilty of not reading your write up, so I don’t know what your trying to do..
But if u look at the shaft and the underside of the lever, you’ll see they are “keyed”.. meaning the square shaft has to connect to the square in the lever..& you’ll never be able to do it with the lever connected to the linkage rod.

 

[MikeAC]

I had changed the leaking O rings last fall and now can't get the tractor to start

I’m guilty of not reading your write up, so I don’t know what your trying to do..

I think the throttle shaft is not engaging the keyway as you stated and needs to be "higher" ... I don't know a better way to say it; I will take your advice and remove the clip next time I try....

 

[MikeAC]

I’m guilty of not reading your write up, so I don’t know what your trying to do..

I think the throttle shaft is not engaging the keyway as you stated and needs to be "higher" ... I don't know a better way to say it; I will take your advice and remove the clip next time I try....

Ok. I tried again. "T" was correct. The keyway was not engaged with the spring loaded arm and the lock screw was not down as far as it was when I initially disassembled the top cover. This must be what the OP was trying to say and was the hint that something was wrong. I took the linkage off. Then I removed the screw from the top of the throttle shaft and removed the spring and dust covers(right two photos). I carefully re-placed the dust covers, realigned the keyway on the spring with the top of the throttle shaft(bottom photo). If done correctly then when you tighten the top lock screw it will compress the spring and lock the throttle shaft into the spring loaded lever arm that locks into the linkage(far left two photos). I opened and bled the screws on the filter and injector, loosened the nut to the left injector and then started the engine. It started right up. I did find that when I had reassembled the unit I had not placed the dowel from the kill switch into the proper slot so I shut off the fuel to the injector and waited for the engine to run out of fuel. I took the cover off again and aligned the dowel on the kill switch shaft with the lever arm inside the pump as best I could estimate. I then rotated the kill switch clockwise and counter clockwise until I heard a "click" and the cover snapped into place. It was at this time my neighbor arrived to help. This time the engine started and shut off as it is supposed to. I did have to do one final adjustment with the gasket as it was leaking. I still have to replace the kill switch pull cable, it no longer works, that's for another day.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Your missing a piece..
A flat washer..
It goes, top hat(dust cover) flat washer, then the lever..
But if it works, that’s all that matters, right.?
It’s basically just a spacer..
To see if has excessive play, grab the throttle with 2 hands and try to move it up and down..

 

[MikeAC]

Your missing a piece..
A flat washer..

Man , You are good!
yes I saw after I finished that the washer was still in my tool box!